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Thread: Introduction

    1. Kit: , by (Super Moderator) Mario Lucchini is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jun 2011 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 1
      Started: 11-08-07 Build Revisions: Never  
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      To all modelers in this Forum:

      I've been honored by SMC with this page, I'll try to do my very best of making it amusing, practical & useful for everybody.
      I'll show here as much techniques as I can, with many pics for every subject, but most of all, I would like this page to be everybody's page...to ask, discuss,propose, etc...
      Welcome to Mario's Micro-mechanics for Modelers!

      Mario Lucchini


      Introduction
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  1. Mario Lucchini's Avatar Super Moderator
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    Mario
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    Quote Originally Posted by sydeem View Post
    Mario - in image 8.jpg it looks like you made a new lower ball joint out of some other plastic (the white part in the image). Was that because the kit balls were too large for the sockets?

    Were you able to force the balls into the existing sockets or did you open them up?

    Really great work and this area is very tricky so some dialog would be interesting here.
    Hey Syd!
    No, I used the kit's ball joint part Nš 66. In my kit, these parts are in a separate sprue Introduction and made out of a Nylon like material (White), definetely not styrene Introduction ...

    For installing part Nš 66 into parts Nš 493/494, I did the following:

    - Put a very small dab of silicone grease in part Nš 66.
    - Joined 493 & 494 aligned with a clamp, sandwiching 66.
    - With a small needle, applied thin CA in all the seams of 493/494.
    - Sand Introduction the parts to give that "One piece" look.
    - Lubricate again with silicone grease.
    - The part now is ready for painting.

    When these ball joints are to be forced into a one piece hole such as part Nš 66 into part Nš 367, I use the silicone grease trick once more, and using a small tube with it's interior diameter slightly bigger than the ball's diameter, I put the tube over 367 (In this case), and the parts holding the ball joint beneath, and press everything in a small vise...great control here, and you don't break anything!
    Next time I will post the assembled steering ensemble...it is a tricky subassembly, yessereee!!!
    Hope I made myself clear.........:)'
    Cheers
    Mario


    Introduction
    Last edited by Mario Lucchini; 02-02-08 at 06:18 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #47

  2. Mario Lucchini's Avatar Super Moderator
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    Mario
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    The steering linkage shown in the last post is now in place...
    See it steering right & left...
    See the rack which will receive the steering pinion and will be enclosed by the steering box...
    See the details & scale hardware as per data...
    See the changes made in the wooden stand to receive the whole thing...
    See the....Uuufffff!!

    Mario


    Introduction
    Attached Images Attached Images Introduction-p2120022-jpg  Introduction-p2120021-jpg  Introduction-p2120019-jpg  Introduction-p2120017-jpg  Introduction-p2120006-jpg  Introduction-p2120001-jpg  Introduction-p2120002-jpg  Introduction-p2120003-jpg  Introduction-p2120004-jpg  Introduction-p2120005-jpg  Introduction-p2120008-jpg  Introduction-p2120009-jpg  Introduction-p2120010-jpg  Introduction-p2120016-jpg 
    QUOTE QUOTE #48

  3. Mario Lucchini's Avatar Super Moderator
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    Mario
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    The brake drums of the kit comes with locating pins that enter the front wheel halves in 5 locating holes and are supposed to be glued...absolutely NOT! Besides, the front wheel halves has one piece mounting nuts as part of the whole, not acceptable!...
    What I did was to drill the front wheel half with a drill that was exactly the hole diameter so as not to go out of center, drilling the 5 holes.
    I mounted the front wheel half already drilled over the drum and centering them with a tight fit brass rod, I marked the 5 hole centers onto the drum SLIGHTLY, using the same drill used to drill the wheel holes, just to mark the centers, then drilled the drum with 1.2 mm drill, which allowed the tapping of the drum using the bolts to be used...
    In order to locate the drum onto the wheel always in the same manner, I bolted the drum to the wheel and proceeded to drill in both parts a hole that takes 1 locating spigot, so every time you assemble them together, drum & wheel goes only one way...The spigot is a very small brass bolt pointed & cut to size and screwed from inside the brake drum...
    Prior to all these, I mounted the wheel halves (both) and the brake drum on the lathe and trued, faced and sanded them.
    Also on the lathe, I glued the front & back wheel halves centering them perfectly and holding them together with the tailstock...
    In the same stage, I glued the 4 counterweights the kit brings, which serves as centering guides for the tyre and forces the tyre against the rims...I will put some foam liners there too, just in case...
    I sanded the tyres a bit on the rolling face to give that "wear" look too...
    The wheels are now ready to paint, and I have to finger the tyres a bit plus more sanding Introduction to make them look OK...
    There's a picture of the completed wheel spinning in the lathe, showing it came out perfectly true, (Look at the center hole of it, it seems motionless...)

    I remind you to put your cursor over the pics to get a brief explanation of them...

    I think this is a good example of superdetailing and I'm happy with it.......

    Thanks for viewing...

    Mario........modeling for fun & peace of mind...


    Introduction
    Attached Images Attached Images Introduction-trueing-front-wheel-half-lathe-jpg  Introduction-trueing-brake-drum-1-jpg  Introduction-trueing-brake-drum-2-jpg  Introduction-trueing-brake-drum-3-jpg  Introduction-brake-drum-trued-faced-jpg  Introduction-drilled-wheel-half-jpg  Introduction-drilled-wheel-half-front-jpg  Introduction-drilled-tapped-drum-locating-spigot-front-jpg  Introduction-drilled-tapped-drum-locating-spigot-jpg  Introduction-assembled-wheel-counterweights-front-jpg  Introduction-assembled-wheel-counterweights-jpg  Introduction-wheel-drum-locating-spigot-scale-bolts-jpg  Introduction-assembled-wheel-drum-bolted-front-jpg  Introduction-assembled-wheel-drum-bolted-jpg  Introduction-tyre-mounted-drilled-wheel-jpg  Introduction-tyre-assembled-wheel-halves-view-jpg  Introduction-tyre-wear-jpg  Introduction-wheels-kit-1-jpg  Introduction-wheels-kit-2-jpg  Introduction-front-wheel-mounted-brake-drum-spinning-fast-jpg 
    QUOTE QUOTE #49

  4. Mario Lucchini's Avatar Super Moderator
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    Mario
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    The front brake drums should be glued as per kit, to the axles...didn't quite like it, so I tapped the axle and provided a brass scale nut to replace the kit's plastic ones...
    This lead to detail a bit the brake shoes part, which wasn't to convincing.....
    So...this is what I got.....I like it!...

    The brake shoes lining is made out of triple craft paper, and the rivets simulated with pin holes....
    The brake shoes return springs were wounded from 0.4 mm silver wire over a 0.5 mm drill...attached to the part with brass rivets...all of this is VERY small...

    The rest are scale bolts, including those big ones in brass which attach the brake shoes ensemble to the back plate....so, now I can unscrew a wheel to show the brake drum, AND unscrew the brake drum to show the brake shoes....hee, hee.....

    Thanks

    Mario


    Introduction
    Attached Images Attached Images Introduction-tapped-axle-nut-jpg  Introduction-brake-drum-axle-attachment-nut-jpg  Introduction-brake-drum-attached-axle-via-scale-nut-jpg  Introduction-brake-shoes-kit-jpg  Introduction-brake-shoes-superdetailed-jpg  Introduction-brake-shoes-lining-1-jpg  Introduction-brake-shoes-lining-2-jpg  Introduction-brake-shoes-detail-2-jpg 
    QUOTE QUOTE #50

  5. Mario Lucchini's Avatar Super Moderator
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    Mario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nortley View Post
    Great work, Mario. On your brake parts and engine manifolds, are you using special paint to produce a textured surface, or is there another technique? My kit exhaust manifold is smooth with no hint of proper sand Introduction casting Introduction roughness.

    Hey Nortley!
    I use the airbrush Introduction and shoot the paint from a distance ( 40 to 50 cms., more or less arms length), use the paint rather thick ( low dilution), and practice, practice practice...then, more practice!...
    I also mix colors, for example the rusty look on the Citroen's exhaust headers is copper and flat aluminum...
    Once happy with the hue, I shoot some flat clear laquer also from the distance explained...
    Hope it's useful...

    Mario


    Introduction
    QUOTE QUOTE #51

  6. CitroenTA's Avatar Established Member
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    Jouko
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    Hello. What did happen to this Citroën? Five years and no updates?
    QUOTE QUOTE #52

  7. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Don
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    Jouko, there will be no updates to this thread. Mario passed away some time back.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #53

  8. CitroenTA's Avatar Established Member
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    Jouko
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    I'm sorry. I didn't know. RIP
    QUOTE QUOTE #54

  9. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Don
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    No worries, Mario & I were the best of friends...even though he lived on another continent we talked several times a week. He was one of the most talented modelers I've ever met, I miss him dearly.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #55

  10. RickyGene's Avatar Active Member
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    Rick
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    I am glad you have allowed this too remain, so much info and ways to improve the kit. I will return here many times before I will complete my 15 Six.
    QUOTE QUOTE #56

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