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    1. Kit: , by (Active Member) JeepMkd is offline
      Builder Last Online: May 2022 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  (2 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 2
      Started: 08-03-12 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Time to step up a little by soldering steel rather than using CA glue 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep and aluminum. I like steel because it's heavier and more importantly, true rust develops almost immediatly adding a lot to the realism. The goal is to recreate an old rusted Jeep that after it had a problem of some kind, it was stored for 20+ years. Still complete with all the details (not many of them originally) but in very bad shape. Rust holes, flat and worn out tires, cracked glass and worn out seats. Kinda like a Rat Jeep.



      So far I've built the frame. Only the transmission cross member is missing, I still need to find some reference photos so I would make it correct.









      Compared to aluminum, steel is a lot harder to cut and bend even though I'm using 0.1mm thinner 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep sheet (0.3mm in total). I use a Dremel 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep VersaTip torch so once you add a lot of parts you need to be extra careful not to melt surrounding joints. I'm still learning and practicing on scrap parts. We don't have hobby shops around here and the folks who work in large tool shops usually don't know the difference between soldering wire or similar. I use an acid flux used for soldering copper tubes (plumbing). I have some kind of solder wire but I have no idea if it's silver one or 60-40... Rust is also an issue. If you leave the parts for longer period you need to sand 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep the rust so a join would form. Otherwise you're just spending your time trying to join two parts - it won't happen.
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  1. Dougritt's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Douglas
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    Very fun project and in an interesting material! We look forward to your progress!
    QUOTE QUOTE #2

  2. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    Yesterday I didn't have much time for any serious work so I only made the body mounts.
    2 on both sides, a total of 4 mounts.



    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    QUOTE QUOTE #3

  3. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    Today I did the last major parts of the frame.









    I use a small piece of ply wood which helps the parts to stay in place



    The initial joint looks familiar (really untidy)


    But later the excess solder is sanded and the flux left overs are cleaned.







    To get a perfect and clean joint you need to use just the right amount of solder. This is where I have lots of room for improving.




    Having a good contact between the parts is crucial to getting a fluent and good joint. Tilting the parts helps the solder flow and cover the whole joint (I read this somewhere on the forum and it really helps!)

    The flux makes the joint look terrible


    but with a little aditional work it looks like this:


    Same goes for the other side, after which the part is fixed in its final place


    The excess solder will be sanded later on.



    Building the transmission crossmember goes the same way, but it's a little more simple than the previous one.






    The round part is where the rubber mount for the transfer case goes.

    The frame is now complete:


    I began the leaf springs:






    That's it for today, I hope you like my little contribution to this wonderful and skilled community


    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    Last edited by JeepMkd; 08-09-12 at 12:27 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #4

  4. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    Working on the small bits that go on the frame






    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    QUOTE QUOTE #5

  5. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    In an effort to improve my tires, which by the way look terrible on my previos models, I came up with this lathe (if it can be called like that)



    Please don't laugh because I don't have any previous experience in turning and this was just a simple idea. I needed to quickly come up with something. I will work on this a lot more and try and build a table and improve my precision. So far it does its job.

    Here's the result after a lot of styrene 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep dust



    It doesn't look bad for a first-timer I think

    Here's the start of the tread. I only glued 9 parts today, should be finished tomorrow.


    They look large but after I glue all the parts I will turn it more.

    I took a break from the high end engineering and started to put the ribs in what's the start of the rear floor for the 2A


    I should finish it tomorrow and I'll probably take some pictures if anyone is interested in the way I made the ribs.
    I still have to avoid warping, but this being a used and abused model it actually fits the idea quite well.


    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    QUOTE QUOTE #6

  6. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    It wasn't until I glued a few ribs of the tread until I remembered I had thinner 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep styrene 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep in stock, so I quickly broke off these and started putting other ribs half the size.





    finally one more to go


    and here it is 90 pieces later


    After that it needed turning so once again I used the dreaded home made lathe


    so now it got a more fine form


    The Mahindra was in the workshop so I used it to test fit the wheel


    Next is milling the tire to the specific diameter (45mm) and trying to make the wheel. If it doesn't come out the way I like it I will turn it separatly. I'm thinking of molding both parts together and later just paint them. We will see.

    What products do you use to mould a tire? I haven't done this in the past and I need help on deciding what brand to order. I'm having trouble with terms because I'm not into materials like urethane 1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep , silicones and such.


    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    Last edited by JeepMkd; 08-19-12 at 11:05 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #7

  7. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    I turned the wheel today, I'll add the hub and the bolts before molding.


    And I started the body from the rear flooring and rear wheel wells




    This time the waves in the sheet don't bother me, but for building a proper model I must find another way of making indents without warping the metal.


    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    QUOTE QUOTE #8

  8. kngsnk's Avatar Member
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    Jim
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    awesome
    QUOTE QUOTE #9

  9. jfonticobal's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Javier
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    Great great job. The Jeep starts to look like a Jeep.
    QUOTE QUOTE #10

  10. Tony's Avatar Active Member
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    Tony
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    Frame has come up great really like what you have down so far
    It's easier to destroy, than it is to create
    QUOTE QUOTE #11

  11. Dougritt's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Douglas
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    Mite- This is really a fun project! I love the way you make parts by creatively using the tools you own...the drill lathe is awesome! The method you are using really adds to the "rat rod" vibe. Great job.
    Doug
    QUOTE QUOTE #12

  12. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    Thanks Don, I'm still learning and I have a tight budget for my hobby so a lathe will come much much later.

    Two weeks ago my summer holiday ended so I'm back in college and 100km from my hometown. It will be long before I can post a significant update.


    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    QUOTE QUOTE #13

  13. JeepMkd's Avatar Active Member
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    Mite
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    Time for a minor update... After spending my free time in August and September for organising an oldtimer show in my town, I barely had some time on October to do something around my models. Here's what I've done last.

    I've started the front floors and finished the inner rear fender flares.


    Rust is starting to form exactly as planned. I will cover the shining solder with a thin spray of paint so the only thing visible after it's finished will be faded paint and rust spots.


    Here's how one side looks

    It's starting to look like something :)


    1:16 Willys CJ 2A - scratch built  steel Jeep
    Last edited by JeepMkd; 12-17-12 at 03:28 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #14

  14. Giovanni's Avatar Established Member
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    Giovanni
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    Very nice metalwork !


    Regards,
    Giovanni
    QUOTE QUOTE #15

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