
Builder Last Online: Jan 2023


Model Scale: 1/8
Rating:
(2 votes - 5.00 average)
Thanks: 2

Started: 08-03-12
Build Revisions: Never

Time to step up a little by soldering steel rather than using
CA glue
and aluminum. I like steel because it's heavier and more importantly, true rust develops almost immediatly adding a lot to the realism. The goal is to recreate an old rusted Jeep that after it had a problem of some kind, it was stored for 20+ years. Still complete with all the details (not many of them originally) but in very bad shape. Rust holes, flat and worn out tires, cracked glass and worn out seats. Kinda like a Rat Jeep.

So far I've built the frame. Only the transmission cross member is missing, I still need to find some reference photos so I would make it correct.




Compared to aluminum, steel is a lot harder to cut and bend even though I'm using 0.1mm thinner
sheet (0.3mm in total). I use a
Dremel
VersaTip torch so once you add a lot of parts you need to be extra careful not to melt surrounding joints. I'm still learning and practicing on scrap parts. We don't have hobby shops around here and the folks who work in large tool shops usually don't know the difference between soldering wire or similar. I use an acid flux used for soldering copper tubes (plumbing). I have some kind of solder wire but I have no idea if it's silver one or 60-40... Rust is also an issue. If you leave the parts for longer period you need to
sand
the rust so a join would form. Otherwise you're just spending your time trying to join two parts - it won't happen.



So far I've built the frame. Only the transmission cross member is missing, I still need to find some reference photos so I would make it correct.




Compared to aluminum, steel is a lot harder to cut and bend even though I'm using 0.1mm thinner




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