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    1. Kit: ME, by (Yearly Subscriber) MODEL A MODEL is offline
      Builder Last Online: Aug 2017 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/4 Rating:  Thanks: 1
      Started: 06-09-17 Build Revisions: Never  
      Supported Attribution Scratch Built

      Mieaux vaut tard que jamais! (Better late than never!)

      Well, its been a very long time since I last finished a model! The Beatles were still hoped to reunite! and Nixon was just about to be toppled!
      (Also, this is my first scratch built A Model A Model, (finally!) model!)

      Both of the above statements are true, however, I have studied model making my whole life, and been around it and model makers, since I was just a little Donald. I was the manager of Paul Freiler's Historical Models for half my life, at the time I left it. I then did a too short stint making models for the movies. I worked in Northrops display model group for a few months, and I have been working in the concept car field for nineteen years!

      I am afraid that I might have been "Hijacking" some of your threads, I do go on and on! but never of course was that my intent, and if I have offended anyone? please accept my apologies!

      All that said, here I go!
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  1. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    don
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    Please be patient with me, I am very much a . . ., novice puts it mildly when it comes to using a computer!
    I have several photos to post at this time, and I hope they will be sufficient for now.


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #2

  2. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The rails dimensions were determined with actual measurements, as I discovered that all the general arrangement drawings were too general!

    The rails were and will be formed using a H. F. bending brake, and some adjustment with a hammer and upon a steel buck.


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #3

  3. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    Cuts were made to ease the forming of the "Horns", and to accommodate the limits of the bending brake. These will be soldered whole when I;m sure its safe to proceed,


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #4

  4. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)

    In the foreground is the bronze rail. The cut-out at the "horn" was in anticipation that this would give me the radius (with some hammering) and allow me to later solder on another piece with a simple bend. I'm not sure which way is "Best" I've set out to do both.

    The steel buck is made from 1/2" thick CRS and its radi duplicate those on the inside surface of an actual chassis rail. Always remembering to make allowances of part thickness.

    The hammers are the pride of my collection, the round and highly polished one is an early PLOMB, made here in Los Angeles, and the other is a Paschall, made here in Long Beach! (A very long time ago!)


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #5

  5. Jo NZ's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Some precision here! Nice work. I must admit that I generally start with a dimension and a photo and make it up (several times, on some occasions) as I go along.
    I love the phrase "adjust with a hammer". Did you know that in the UK a hammer is sometimes known as an "American screwdriver"

    I must say that your planishing hammers are awesome. Much too good to be used with screws...
    QUOTE QUOTE #6

  6. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Thank you Jo! Your my first reply!

    "American Screwdriver"? Well, we "Mericans" do have a long legacy of using tools inappropriately. I see it every day, and try to educate, but?
    I have regretted letting out tools, many times!

    On to your project -I think that the hydraulic shocks on the single seater, were probably the same as are on the speed-six? Sorry, I don't have any help to offer regarding the rear belly pan. I do have the Bonhams catalogs from the Daniels auction but there was not anything new. Searching online, I've seen some very early pictures, (one presented backwards) from the Getty Images archive, and rereading all my clippings, its suggested that the blue seen in parts of the cockpit, is the blue that the exterior was painted. A bit darker than I had imagined.

    Very Good Luck to you on your build! And thank you for your attention to my simple start!

    Please call me Don

    Cheers!


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #7

  7. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    All day long to design and create this fixture. After fold forming the rails I noticed that their vertical sides were "puffy". I've made this to maintain the correct dimensions while I iron out my problems! The plate can be assembled to work right or left. And later will help me to register drilling templates.

    There were 30+ bodies styles offered for the Model A, I may want to do others, or a "Hot Rod"!?


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #8

  8. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    The fixture plate itself is made of 3/8" aluminum and 1/8" steel plate. The "Patches" are 3/8" square key-stock, that I've used to true up a wandering line.


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    QUOTE QUOTE #9

  9. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    Once I have the fixture plate, I can start to 'Iron Out" my rails. Allowing the brass only to move where I need it to move. I had originally thought to put it through a rolling mill, and designed it to do that, but it was far more expedient to just pick up some wood and hammer, to do the initial work, and then to use my jewelers burnishers to assure myself that the radius is constant. Finally 220 sandpaper and a HARD block, followed with 220 grit and a FIRM sanding A Model A Model, (finally!) block.


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #10

  10. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    I was not intending to start with the interior, but ?

    If, you are going to build completely from scratch? Then I guess you first have to measure everything!

    For everything that you "Scratch-builders" have shown us, there must be at least double that in time and maybe failures, that you have not mentioned!




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    QUOTE QUOTE #11

  11. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    Measurements from the actual article is always best. Then of course scaling down. Transfer to the pattern making material of your choice. And go for it!


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    QUOTE QUOTE #12

  12. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    This is a beginning step in producing my instrument cluster. I'm thinking of going down two different paths. This will be the more conventional one. Rubber pad press the shell. Draw up the engraved details of the original, and photo-etch those.


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #13

  13. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    The other route I'm thinking of taking, (I don't have anything to show right now, and I'm not going to show you my experiments!)

    The other route is to ELECTRO-FORM, the shell. This is simple to do but it does require the same materials and tools used in electroplating.

    A pattern,(mine will be Ren board, and Evergreen styrene A Model A Model, (finally!) ), is molded in RTV A Model A Model, (finally!) , a "Casting" of RTV A Model A Model, (finally!) is made into that first mold, and onto the second RTV A Model A Model, (finally!) a thick-ish layer of wax is applied. The "A" surface of this wax matrix is dusted with graphite powder, (Copper is possibly better?) And that is "Plated!"
    -A slow process to assure a good plating, rinse, dry, and dissolve the wax away if it doesn't cooperate!

    But, this, will have to be squeezed into my schedule!


    A Model A Model, (finally!)
    QUOTE QUOTE #14

  14. Jo NZ's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    What metal are you going to electro form? I used it as a technique years ago to make RF tight covers for Avionics. They were in Nickel, with a .001" Copper flash A Model A Model, (finally!) first. You could form completely in copper, it's easier and the anode doesn't deteriorate.
    QUOTE QUOTE #15

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