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Thread: Another Super 7

    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) ScaleMaster is offline
      Builder Last Online: Feb 2021 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  (7 votes - 4.43 average) Thanks: 4
      Started: 12-27-12 Build Revisions: Never  
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      I decided the time has come for me to build yet another 1/12 scale Super Seven, (it has been almost six years since I finished my last one), the only “problem” is I don’t have any more kits of them.
      If I counted correctly, this will be my 7[SUP]th[/SUP] 1/12 scale Seven.
      So instead of shopping for one, I grabbed a sheet of brass and started cutting, beating and bending.
      I am not sure why I started with the hood first, it just seemed like a good idea.

      Another Super 7-image12-jpg


      Another Super 7
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  1. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Thanks Ken!

    Since I was dry fitting some of the other parts I thought I'd check how some of the other subassemblies fit together too…



    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #122

  2. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    A while back I set the rear bodywork aside not realizing it was on an uneven surface. Unfortunately it picked up a bit more than just a mild warp. I tried to bend it back into shape and it looked like it might fix it.
    So I added four more hard mounting points with screw in fasteners on the frame and also keyed the bodywork to fit snugly onto the frame and it did help, but did not cure Another Super 7 all the issues and it still needed to be trued up.

    I flexed the body until I broke some of the joints and then fastened it to the frame.
    Next I made two vertical relief cuts in the lower rear sides of the fenders. The one on the left side was drawn in…

    …and the one on the right was shimmed out until the rest of the bodywork was trued up. Even the trunk lid fit properly again.

    Additional brass and styrene bracing was bonded to the inside of the body to shore it up while it was still bolted to the frame. I also used laminating resin and three layers of fine fiberglass mat on the inside of the wheel wells for more rigidity and rebonded all the fractures I created by bending and flexing it.


    A brass “leading edge” was added for strength between the fenders. You can see some of the piecework sheet styrene and CA construction where I have sanded through the primer.

    Now it is strong enough to continue with the surface work without being bolted to the frame.



    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #123

  3. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    The basic exterior of the fuel tank is done and I added more parts to the frame for the mounts and made a pair of straps too. They will tighten up once the insulation is added. The screws will be replaced with bolts later.




    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #124

  4. spinellid82's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Looking good my friend! Sorry to hear about the warping problem, glad you got that taken care of.
    USMC, Retired

    Evil prevails when good men stand idle.
    QUOTE QUOTE #125

  5. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by spinellid82 View Post
    Looking good my friend! Sorry to hear about the warping problem, glad you got that taken care of.
    Thanks! I figured going into this project that I would have to redo some parts, so once I figured out the problem and a solution, I was happy to do the work.

    More frame supports have been added…




    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #126

  6. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    This is the trunk inner liner. It is constructed of styrene Another Super 7 and brass and fiberglassed for strength and appearance. The inside will be textured and finished later.

    The round section at the forward edge is a separate piece that snaps on. It is the only way to install it into the frame.



    The rear body section is also coming together after reworking the warp out of it… The primer is glossy; those are reflections not discoloration from sanding.

    A side note, at this point it already weighs 11 ounces, that’s almost a ¾ pounder…


    Another Super 7
    QUOTE QUOTE #127

  7. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    These are the rear shocks. Mostly brass with some aluminum for the piston shaft. I wound the springs from steel wire.




    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #128

  8. spinellid82's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Very nice but, how did you affix the aluminum to the brass? I am doing basically the same for my shocks and wondering if I should use apoxy or notch the aluminum and fill the joint with solder.
    USMC, Retired

    Evil prevails when good men stand idle.
    QUOTE QUOTE #129

  9. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Right now the aluminum is just a press fit into the brass. Once I paint the brass parts and polish the aluminum I'll use CA to cement the two materials together.

    I have tried to make a bond by creating faceted surfaces and undercuts in the aluminum and soldering much as you describe, but the joint has always turned out to be weaker than cementing with CA or epoxy Another Super 7 .

    Another option is to use a pin to lock it all together.


    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #130

  10. spinellid82's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    The pin idea is a good one. I'm working in 1:8 and with a lot of heavy parts so strength is a big consideration for me.
    USMC, Retired

    Evil prevails when good men stand idle.
    QUOTE QUOTE #131

  11. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Brass pins that contact other brass elements and are soldered to them while going through the aluminum parts works pretty well.
    Just make sure you have a positive fit for longevity.


    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #132

  12. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Since I am working on the trunk and the spare, I made this scissor jack. Just a dry run test, I’ll make another one with more details. This one is all brass with a steel jackscrew. I just wanted to see if it would work.

    And yes, it does work.



    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #133

  13. PROPELLER's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    More details? What else?
    Amazing!
    QUOTE QUOTE #134

  14. spinellid82's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    How cool is this!?
    USMC, Retired

    Evil prevails when good men stand idle.
    QUOTE QUOTE #135

  15. ScaleMaster's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Mark
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    I guess I already got tired of the wheel I made at the onset of this project. I also realized after working on the spare that I wanted more detail on the inside/backside of the rim. I made this wheel center to remedy both of those issues as well as making an overall thinner Another Super 7 rim with the same bead dimensions. Still a little more clean-up required before a mold is made from it.


    I also had to modify the rims I already cast to allow this larger diameter wheel center to fit, as well as to set it into the rim deeper for less overall width.




    Another Super 7
    Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... - Mark D. Jones
    QUOTE QUOTE #136

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