Jaguar SS100 1/16 Minicraft Build

[sjordan]

I have a ton of 1:1 reference material, so let me know if you have any questions.

[Solyrus]

Hi Skip, great, will check in with you as i go along.

[RonOC]

Looks like you're off to a good start!

Keep us informed as you progress.

Ron

[DominiqueBeerts]

About the paint issue: did you clean your parts prior to spraying? You will need to wash your parts in soapy warm (not hot !!) water so all oils and grease will be washed off. These are used to push the sprues out of the molds. Mainly with older kits you may have this problem. Modern ones are less problematic, but still care is needed.

[Solyrus]

Hi, Dominique, thanks for that advice. Though this is a new kit i did wash the parts, but washing will be critical for my 1/8 XKE build, as that one is old and certainly dirty. More progress reports and pics to follow soon.

[Solyrus]

Looks like you're off to a good start!

Keep us informed as you progress.

Ron

Thanks Ron!

[hot ford coupe]

Hi Rajen. There are a lot of variables to the paint process that can really mess you up so I share in your frustration. First, I know you're washing the parts but what kind of primer are you using and what kind of color coat are you using? Some brands aren't compatible with others. I recently found that out when I sprayed some clear over my color coat, the surface went haywire. Whatever help you need with the painting skills, let me know what you're doing and we'll sort out the rough parts.

[sjordan]

Painting this kit can be a bit tricky since the body is molded in red and is particularly notorious for bleed-through. I really want to paint mine Wimbledon white, but I think I'll go with a dark olive instead.

To make it more accurate and impressive than most builds of this kit, it needs some fiddling with the up top, which doesn't match the shape of the 1:1 .

[hot ford coupe]

Red plastic and a Wimbledon white finish leads to light pink. I know what you mean about that infernal bleed through. I know a few modelers that covered their models with a number of coats of a light metallic silver before they sprayed down the color coat and the body still bled through.

[DominiqueBeerts]

Red plastic and a Wimbledon white finish leads to light pink. I know what you mean about that infernal bleed through. I know a few modelers that covered their models with a number of coats of a light metallic silver before they sprayed down the color coat and the body still bled through.

Yes, also a grey primer (preferably two coats) and top of that a white primer may help reduce the problem.

[ERA Chas]

A superior 'barrier' to the red bleed through is a coat or two of Future applied by air brush. Wash the plastic as stated, and shoot a small test area (like inside the body shell) with two thin coats. Wait for a day of drying then prime with light gray or white primer . Let that sit and try your color coat.
You have nothing to lose.

[Tage]

There you have the solution of the Future...

[JonathanPoll]

My first model kit I ever built was a 1/43 Jaguar SS100. It didnt end up that good, since my brother didnt let me use the good glue, he let me use the one that goes everywhere!

The only thing I was proud of, was the decal on the front/grille radiator. I think it said "42" or something. I glued the radiator grill/rack that fits infront of the radiator before the decal ,m so I had to basicly put it on in about 2mm clearance, and it ended up perfectly straight! Shame all the nother decals are wonky ;)

[Solyrus]

Hi All,
ok, its been a long while since my last post - about three months or so. I have been building the model but just did not have time to post anything. So anyway, its done now, and while not a fantastic result, its a pretty good effort considering its my return to modelling after 30 years or so.

At last count the discussion was about problems with paint and bleed through if there was no primer (red bleed through in this case as the original plastic is red). Well, all of that proved quite true with this kit. I first painted it what was meant to be a royal blue (without priming) and the result was a deep purple.



As funky as this colour came out, it just does not work on a classic car, so clearly I needed to go back to first principles. That involved prepping the body with sandpaper and water and going for a first coat of white primer . In the process I also decided to change the colour, and go for something lighter to accentuate the detail of the curves in the body. More on that later.

In the meanwhile, I completed the chassis and suspension, attached the engine and the wheels and had a rolling chassis.






Then I returned to the painting To cut a long story short - I took heed of all the advice that had been offered to me (Thanks guys!) and cleaned the body parts, washed it several times, then primed and prepped for painting. For the colour I chose a pearluscent blue (yes, not exactly a classic colour) but it just looked too good in the shop to pass by. The finished result after all prepping and priming (and having to deal with plastic reactions along the way) looked like this:


A lot better than the funky purple. I know there appears to be a red tinge but thats just the reflection of the curtains (drapes) in the room - as you will see in later pics the colour came through pretty nicely.

Once the painting was done things moved pretty swiftly with fitting the body to the chassis and then doing the interior. The black rectangles you see on the chassis are meant to be mats.

Afetr the dabacle with the paintwork, I was particularly pleased with my effort with the battery (small pleasures!).

HHowever, my enthusiasm was dampened somwwhat as I did mess up the paint on the body in one spot - near the windscreen arm - by spilling CA glue (accidentally of course!).

Nevertheless, I persevered, getting to the bonnet (hood) which proved tricky because the hinges were quite stiff and simply refused to work well. I tried to find new ones (dollshouse furniture and cigar boxes are apparently recommended) but had little luck so I scratch build hinges from nylon squares and pins and they work pretty well. Finally I got the bonnet correct, but it did not sit well on the car unless I had one side glued in place first, so I decided to removed that side from the assembly and attach it permanently to the body. You can just about see the scratch built hinges through the gap in the fold.



After that it was all the brightwork, including the number plates and the like.


And then, the home stretch:




So, all in all, a pretty decent effort. Certainly a massive learning curve for me, and great lessons to carry forth when I tackle the bigger brother - the 1/8 XKE coupe. But first, I am tempted by the 1/12 Bentley blower, one of my all time favourite cars.

Thanks guys, for all of you help by way of advice and comments - every bit counted. Let me know what you think of the final product.

See you on the next build!