Entirely Scratchbuilt

[hot ford coupe]

T hat's some great work.

[Deuces-wild]

WoW!

[Tage]

Beautiful work, awesome.

Ok, where can you find those tiny allen head capscrews?
I've seen Mario using them also, but have been unsuccessful in finding them.

[ScaleMotorcars]

Beautiful work, awesome.

Ok, where can you find those tiny allen head capscrews?
I've seen Mario using them also, but have been unsuccessful in finding them.

Should have them on the catalog but the weekend. They will be on this page.http://www.scalemotorcars.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=61&osCsid=f8757438870e863d96ddda0e e60dc5bb

[Rick]

Dave Sherman is at it again and has kindly allowed us to post photo's of a new 8th scale project. This one's going to be a modern Pro Mod car with an entirely scratchbuilt fiberglass body. The "Buck" is made from a product called Renshape and I'm told its easier to work with than wood. Once the buck is complete the plan is to pull a mold from it and cast the body in fiberglass. The photo's of Dave's work are self explanatory so I'll let them speak for themselves.

Dave does his own thing and is a happy member of another site, so please don't ask.

[ScaleMotorcars]

All I can say is awesome!!!!

For those that don't know Renshape is a very good substitute for wood. No grain to mess with and no knots. Its made by Freeman manufacturing. Just Google it and youll find them. In fact some of out video tutorials were done by freeman showing off all the cool casting supplies.

[hot ford coupe]

That's the stuff I've been looking for. I hope it's not too expensive.

[Rick]

Jeff, if you or anyone else tries this product, please do a tutorial for us.

[Rick]

Jeff, Dave informs me that he bought his Renshape on Ebay for about half price so everybody should keep that source in mind. He's used about $200 worth of material for this project.

[strevo]

Rick,
I used Renshape as well as other high-density foams quite a bit during school. It is similar to working with wood, only a little softer and easier to form by hand with sandpaper and saws. Renshape foam is roughly "50lb" density(one of the harder foams) and feels a little like dried clay. The only things of concern when working with it are the dust, and it will need a good sealer to fill the pores before painting. It can be a little rough on your tools too.

[Mr.Tin]

I have used many different grades of Renshape-tye products, called variously CIBATool, Ureol, Ebalta dependant on where you are in the world. The best was an expensive one that showed no signs of it being a foam. It was the colour of dark chocolate and very dense. Wonderful stuff supplied by a silversmith for whom I made Aston Martin patterns to later be cast in resin and electro-formed in silver for Aston's giftware range.
I currently have some less dense which I got as offcuts from a rapid-prototyping company locally. It is more obviously foam and not quite so nice to work. The dust is a big problem, more so than wood, although wood dust is still very much more dangerous than generally thought.
I therefore try to work it always with a blade, so that I get chippings and shavings rather than fine dust. Final shaping though has to be with a file and a little sandpaper, which is when you really need to be careful. The dust goes everywhere and your bench needs to be vacuum cleaned regularly. I am seriously considering going back to wood! Lime is a very good carving wood and stable enough. I believe you call it basswood in America. I also like pear wood, which I'm lucky to have a few chunks of following my model boat history.

Mr.Tin