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    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) sydeem is offline
      Builder Last Online: Aug 2014 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  (1 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 0
      Started: 06-25-11 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Edmunds Offy Midget:
      http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/...-midget-6.html

      Thank You Madd Fabricator:
      http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/...abricator.html

      I am a kit builder not a scratch builder but after I saw these two threads I just had to contact the Madd Fabricator and see what he had for a sprint car body. I have the TDR Offy and once MF sent this picture I had to order one for the Offy.




      I first became interested in Sprint Cars around 1949 (but lost interest soon because of the Korean War and College) and MF’s body is vintage sprint so I decided to try to build a car like a Pepper Tree mechanic might if he inherited an Offy engine in 1949. Sprint cars then were just beginning to grow into tube frames and disk brakes but there were still cars being built with T frames and either T or Deuce running gear. I have junk parts left over from T and Deuce kits so there shouldn’t be too much scratch building required.

      The is a great thread in the H.A.M.B forum with about 800 posts covering sprint car history:

      History VINTAGE SPRINT CAR PIC THREAD, 1969 and older only please. - THE H.A.M.B.

      MF’s body lends itself to either tube or rail frame design. I will choose to try to build a car with the T frame inside the body, although many in this era still had the frame on the outside. I hope others will become interested in this branch of 1/8 model building. Please feel free to chime in with either build suggestions, comments, ideas or personal experience dialog.
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  1. kmeaders@q.com's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Ken
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    Syd, I think that if TDR Vintage Sprint Car were to put out a midget frame and MF a body, there would be a lot of interest, besides us. It would be a bigger hit if they could also do that Offy in the 110 cu in. version. I'm like you in that I loved back in the day when you could be competitive, in racing, without all the big bucks it takes today. I also loved the part where we designed, built and drove those race cars. Inovation and perspiration where the key to winning. Today you buy everything and then go race it ( if you can afford it) Anyway Syd, I really am enjoying this build of yours. Ken
    Old Sprinter
    QUOTE QUOTE #32

  2. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    Hey TDR Vintage Sprint Car - Wouldn't a 110 CU Offy just be a scaling problem?

    Anyway I decided if this guy has the money for an Offy he has the money for a new 1950 tube frame chassis.





    I think I may make another cut for the top so that there is a cowl and a hood. That way I can show off the Offy yet keep the body shape intact.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #33

  3. kmeaders@q.com's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Ken
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    The frame is outstanding Syd. The big Offy is a little different than the 110 cu.in. job, however both use the same mag. I guess now the fun part comes; getting this baby up on some wheels?
    Old Sprinter
    QUOTE QUOTE #34

  4. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    I may have to get another body from The Madd Fabricator. I think I may move this time frame up to the 1960s from the original 1940 then 1950 concept. Right now I am in about 1950 with lever action shocks. For attachment purposes it would have been easier to use tube shocks from the Deuce kits. I thought about that then thought why not move into 1960 with TDR Vintage Sprint Car ’s IFS and Quick Change rear end. Then you would not need a Deuce or T donor kit for suspension. If I am going to do that why not section the body for a lower profile. Maybe tilt the Offy over a bit or maybe one of TDR Vintage Sprint Car ’s engines has a lower profile????



    Way back some time ago Tim posted pictures of an Indy or sprint chassis so TDR Vintage Sprint Car has open wheel racing on their mind but in the mean time I may just order an IFS and a quick change rear end if I can get another body form the Madd Fabricator.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #35

  5. kmeaders@q.com's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Ken
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    The suspension you have is correct even for the 60s; just need a shorter rear cross spring or make torsion bar tubes. Some guys have tried IFS in sprints without any succeeding in making one work so they don't use them. TDR Vintage Sprint Car has come out with a midget chassis that is very cool. Hopefully there will be more componates to come. Your sprinter is great, keep going Buddy. Just my humble opinon. Ken
    Last edited by kmeaders@q.com; 10-03-11 at 06:03 PM.
    Old Sprinter
    QUOTE QUOTE #36

  6. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    What I was thinking Ken was to use TDR Vintage Sprint Car coil over shocks to get rid of the Deuce springs even if I don't use the TDR Vintage Sprint Car IFS. I wonder if I can make one of the TDR Vintage Sprint Car motors into a lower profile than the Offy to reduce the body height? Maybe just by replacing the deep pan with a dry sump?
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #37

  7. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    Really struggling with these lever shock mounts. Clearly just using the tube shocks from a Deuce kit is the way to go if you plan to use the Deuce as a donor kit for suspension.



    I still plan to remake a frame with torsion bar suspension if I can and if I fall down there I will try using the TDR Vintage Sprint Car coil over shocks for suspension with tube axle up front and their quick change in the rear.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #38

  8. modelerchuck's Avatar Active Member
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    Chuck
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    I wanted to say I enjoy every post that happens on this thread and am learning ALOT!
    Keep up the great work
    Chuck
    Modelerchuck
    QUOTE QUOTE #39

  9. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    The radius rods are tacked in place. I did not add nerf bars to the back radius rods. I will save them for the 1960 version.


    Below is why I wanted to rebuild this model. I had made the belly pan too deep for the Deuce running gear. That meant dropping some gussets to keep the radius rods about level. My problem is not being a draftsman everything is cut and try. I hope by having the lower chassis member dropped some and using a torsion bar set up things will work out better. I wont be able to have the front bars placed before the axle which most of the reference pictures show because of the nose shape. Believe a torsion arm below and behind the front axle will work. Believe the rear can be a trailing torsion arm which seems to be popular.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #40

  10. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    Guess I can't put off the seat any longer. I keep laying sub assemblies together to test the build plus seeing the combinations keeps me from giving up on this scratch build Vintage Sprint Car . It also gives me ideas on how to improve the chassis for the next generation. Using 8 gage wire for the chassis means I can do a lot of building cheaply. So far the body has been the only expense. Everything else is scrap or cast off parts. For instance the radiator was apparently bits and pieces from an old "T" build and it is too short. It needs to be taller for the final build and I think I remember where at least part of a Deuce radiator is stashed in my junk parts.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #41

  11. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    By the way, if you don't have an Offy handy most of the sprint cars run Small Block Chevy, Pontiac or Ford engines and the kit motors will shoe horn into the Vintage Sprint body also.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #42

  12. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    Planning the 1960 model and being drawing challenged, I printed the side view of the model on two pieces of paper so I could try various frame layouts. This image is scaled to the 18-inch body if anyone wants to layout a tube frame concept for MF’s Vintage Sprint. I really haven’t the faintest idea of chassis flex or how much support the motor needs so any help would be appreciated. It will be a while before I really start the 1960 version as I should finish the 1950 version to see what other pitfalls await.

    The Offy pretty well fills the body height although it could maybe be 1/3” shorter. Thought I could section 1/3” out of the body middle but am afraid I would not be able to close the end pieces properly.

    This is how I might wind up. It looks boxy doesn’t it? Part of the layout is for support – part is trying to figure out where to cut panels. The frame member above the bottom holds the radius rod connection and the torsion bars at axle height. Maybe it could be the only frame bottom. Any suggestions from real sprint fans would be appreciated. I stopped following Sprint racing around 1950.

    The torsion arm lengths seem to be about half or less a wheel diameter. The front torsion bars could then reside just in front of the motor if I move the existing motor location back about 1/3”. The front radius rod support would fit nicely in the frame triangle if that isn’t too long. Don’t know if there is a standard length for these things.

    The wheelbase is 12” (96” at 1:1 Vintage Sprint Car scale) and as there is parallax in photography the dot/circles are about where the axles will really be. Not sure if I should use old Deuce kit shocks (pretty tall) or make shorter ones. Probably will wait to see how the frame actually lays out. When I drew this I thought the rear torsion bars could be under the seat (I forgot about the drive shaft then!) Guess they will have to be at the back of the frame and probably require a cut out at the bottom of the body. (See that’s why I need help from the real mechanics.)

    Laid out an initial panel concept. Again suggestions anyone? Will not really layout the panels until the frame is done but you can see how you might want to keep the panel layout in mind when designing the frame besides subassemblies and mechanics.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #43

  13. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    That's outstanding. First rate all the way.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #44

  14. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    OK! The Madd Fabricator delivered the new wheels yesterday. They are made up of tires and a three-piece wheel (inner rim. Center piece and outer rim). The three-piece wheel allows then to fit any tire size like the narrow front and wide rear shown. (Items pictured are as they came out of the mold – not cleaned or finish sanded)



    Now I can establish the axle height for sure and while I am at it place the Offy where it will finally go so that the frame can be laid out. (There will be room for the front torsion bars to reside in front of the motor.)



    The cockpit is roomy. I dropped a seat in to see how a driver might sit. The side padding will be almost 1/2”. Maybe the surround can be carved from wood. I have already tried and discarded it with foam board. Too hard to cut foam board accurately and no way to round edges. Making the padding meet the cockpit edge will be interesting also.



    Sure looking for fabrication suggestions or build help as I go along. How about some criticism or suggestions?
    QUOTE QUOTE #45

  15. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar Administrator
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    Daniel
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    Is it just me or do those tires look a bit small....
    QUOTE QUOTE #46

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