Jaguar e-type

[TOMc]

I will admit that when I first open the box of a new 1:8 model I feel somewhat intimated and have to remind myself, stop wining about how big it is and go to work. Waiting for material ordered from RB Motion and model Motorcars , nuts, bolts and some other do-dads. The REVELL 3.8 liter engine is no POCHER but the quality is ok and I plan to use it for an up grade conversion to the 4.2 liter engine. If it doesn't work out there is a 4.2 on e-bay made by TDR Innovations, this engine has a rough grain surface which can be a real pain. The wire wheels that came with the kit are real nice, 15-inch diameter with 48 spokes, but can I leave anything alone, nooooo.


First part of the wire wheel construction.

[TOMc]

My first attempt at wire wheels is coming along, with the wheel and hub pattern being turned from hardwood. Using the finished patterns I can make duplicate parts using molds made from 1-to-1 / rapid silicone mold rubber and high strength casting resin . I have used this method before to make flat heads for my 1932 Ford Deluxe Roadster retro conversion and it worked just fine. The roadsters wheels are 3-D printed by TDR Innovations, you just have to spoke them.

[TOMc]

I am going to jump around a little here, coffee makes me do that. More work on the wire wheels and some on the drop top conversion. The hardest part the conversion so far is separating the windshield from the body, once cut there is no going back.

[TOMc]

Just an update on the wire wheels. According to the JAGUAR E-TYPE Workshop Manual compiled by Floyd Clymer, the optional wire wheels were of 72 spoke. As my XKE will not have a factory paint color I see no reason to have factory optional wheels, plus I don't think I could make them on my first try. So my wheels will have 48 spokes. Deal with it.

[TOMc]

The ass end may not look complicated being of only two pieces but the top is brittle and the bottom is soft plastic, they are also a bit sprung so I ensured alignment by replacing the existing alignment pins and adding four more. After applying a few pieces of tape I painted the inside seam with epoxy .

[TOMc]

The wheel patterns are finished. I also made a jig to hold the wheel and hub while I threaded the spokes. As you can see I used LEGO bricks for the mold box, quick, easy and reusable.

[TOMc]

The molds worked out great, some air bubbles in the plugs, I think that is what they are called, If there is a foundrymen out there please correct me. I'll make enough wheels and hubs to enable me to choose the best for lacing. Bodywork is looking good, after some care full alignment I joined the floor section to the trunk floor with superglue I then taped the seams, back and front with nylon (?) medical tape, then painted the tape with epoxy . This tape is not only thin, strong and cheep I have used it for scale upholstery, carpeting and floor mats as well as the paper tape.

[TOMc]

Working on alignments and bodywork. I overheated the trunk lid a little while trying to give it more curve. I use BONDO Glazing and Spot Putty for all my dents and deep scratches.

[TOMc]

It must be me. After careful alignment of the doors and body panel/windshield, Epoxy was applied on the inside seam and left to dry. When I picked it up this morning the Epoxy cracked. After cleaning the parts I repeated the alignment, tacked the seam with SG, applied med-tape to the inside followed by what I now call Epoxy paint.

[TOMc]

The hinges for the trunk lid are installed, or is it a bonnet. The med-tape / epoxy paint combination worked, now I can handle the body work with a little more confidence. The fire wall fits perfectly and will be installed as soon as I do something with those molded in things.

[Egon]

If you have some spareparts perhaps ? or a hardtop, Isn't the windscreen smaler on the cap.

[TOMc]

Yes it is. It would be best if I leave it be for now. That is one gorgeous car you have there. It might have been Mr. Webster who defined quality as being something greater than self. I found out what that blob of plastic is on the fire wall. It is the Water Control Valve for the heating system.

[JunkGTZ]

I appreciate your explaining all the challenges and solutions to the fragile and almost flimsy jag body. I have been dealing with some similar problems with my conversion of the same body into a speedster for use on an RC chassis and alignment issues abound when there is no floor pan in my project, but I will be following yours for some tips. I have planned on using cloth hockey tape and epoxy to bond some of it together and my doors will not be opening. I'll have to check out the medical tape option and having a wife who's a nurse makes that a possibility. Looks great!

[TOMc]

Thanks. I have learned a great deal and derived so much inspiration from this forum that I can not help but share. The med-tape works great I have also used the paper type for 1/8 scale floor carpet and it takes acrylic paint well. The new battery was milled from a combination of cherry and bass hardwood. Hardwood is a lot easier to work with and has a fine grain that cleans up neat and sharp. I seal the grain end with super glue so it won't soak up as much primer and ruin the detail