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Thread: Gt40-1/12

    1. Kit: , by (Active Member) ERA Chas is offline
      Builder Last Online: Nov 2017 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 09-25-10 Build Revisions: Never  
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      I'm almost embarrassed to post this after watching Propeller's tour de force on this car. But I thought I'd throw it open to criticism.
      I built Trump's kit to capture the car's character-not one specific chassis number. Everyone loves the #1 car, chassis 1015 but I chose to model it as a test track rat and endurance racer-not a modern restored, vintage-race car.
      I welcome all comments pro and con.

      Thanks for looking.


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  1. Hemi Killer's Avatar Active Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    sorry to dig up an old thread,

    I was wondering what technique was used to complete the exhuast system?

    Also, what parts did you scratchbuild, other than uts/bolts/wiring?

    I am looking to eventually purchase this kit and the KA detail kit. Still on the fence about the KA kit.

    This build is amazing. I love detailed cars that show wear and use. When a car is pristine and perfect it does not appeal to me at all. You did a phenomenal job.

  2. ERA Chas's Avatar Active Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemi Killer View Post
    I was wondering what technique was used to complete the exhuast system?
    Also, what parts did you scratchbuild, other than nuts/bolts/wiring?
    Thanks for your compliments.
    The exhaust was done in stages. First each individual pipe had the mold seams removed then a coat of Alclad Gt40-1/12 stainless, covered by Alclad Gt40-1/12 pale gold. Then by assembling the header pipes to the unfinished engine block with white glue, I began to 'heat treat' them with acrylics Gt40-1/12 and enamels. Dark and light tan, umber and NATO black and just a hint of Tamiya Gt40-1/12 clear blue.(Use on chrome valve cover edges where the hot Gt40-1/12 pipes discolor the chrome). This was applied with the lightest at the hottest parts (the bends) and randomly washed throughout. The weld seams were made with NATO and rubber browns. I studied my own raw stainless pipes to see how they discolored with heat.
    I built the collector sections separately and painted in similar manner as headers except using darker shades because they are further from the extreme heat. I also drilled the tips using a .250" bit to thin them to scale. I coated the insides with gray primer Gt40-1/12 washes Gt40-1/12 as real pipes are seldom flat black inside on race gas.
    When all dry, I removed the white glued joints and finished the engine nearly complete. I then reglued the pipes to the block with styrene Gt40-1/12 cement and a drop of cyano, and joined them to the collectors (cyano) when I had finished the rear antiroll bar. Then a very thin overall wash of 'jet exhaust' to tone down some of the contrasts.

    Other scratch built Gt40-1/12 parts:
    The rear trailing arms, anti roll bar and links (all .075" coat hanger), throttle linkage, distributor, plug wires and coil, carb air pan and heat shield under cockpit rear glass (.005" cake pan tin), coil springs in suspension and holding down plexi carb air intake, coolant hoses, coolant overflow tank cap, fuel line fitting at filter, old-style battery in passenger floor and cables, shifter and pedal cables, all fuse wiring and harnesses, all lowered front suspension pieces and dash toggle switches. Forgot; filled-in the void in the drivers door roof for the 'Gurney bubble'. Used Bondo glazing putty Gt40-1/12 .
    Sorry for the long post but you asked and I tried hard to remember....


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