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    1. Kit: , by (Established Member) Bender_13 is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jan 2016 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 1
      Started: 11-18-12 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Hello


      I have times interesting project in attacked taken.

      Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3




      (Picture from the original engine Mercedes the Benz museum in Stuttgart)

      “The original, called “the Standuhr”, was one of the first engines built by God-dear Daimler. It was used as drive of the “gasoline-driven engine carriage” and a boat. It was the first “high-speed” combustion engine. At that time approx. 700 rpm were meant.

      Particularly interesting is also the controlling of the exhaust valve. This takes place via a cam disc, whereby a slide ring in a slot of the crankshaft operates the valve via a bumper. Functions also in the model perfectly. “

      Technical data of the model:
      Height of the engine: 320mm,
      Flywheel diameter: 95mm, drilling 20mm

      Manufacturer: classic engine
      Yardstick: 1:3
      Price approx.: 259€ (cast part-corrode 11 parts + accessory kit 4 parts)

      Additional material necessarily e.g.: Brass round material, brass tubes, screws etc. (not in cast part-corrode contained).
      The 15 parts from cast part-corrode must all still be worked on, additionally must still 69 further individual parts be made.
      On the basis the plans provided, for a model construction amateur, with experiences in the rotation and milling, no problem should represent.
      A CD with photos to the individual sections can be acquired additionally.

      Interesting, full-functional model engine from aluminum casting Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally , iron and brass. Presupposed one has entrance to a turning lathe and a milling machine.

      First I show you the individual parts like I it from Modelengines, castin kits received. On the side can see to her also a video of the running engine.



      Crank case (exterior)



      Crank case (inside)


      Steering box, wheel, cylinder head




      Crankcheek 2x


      Control disk, bush, piston


      Piston rod, crank handle, piston ring, O-ring, control segment



      When have I the crank case inside turned off first, afterwards have I a wave by the central hole put and bolts. Subsequently, I aligned and pinned the two halves. to the conclusion I could bore the holes for the screws.










      Jens


      Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
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  1. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    May 2009
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    Hello

    From a steel tube I turned the bush. (Length 85mm, diameter 25mm)






    On the pipe I pressed still another ring.
    In addition I where the ring am turned the diameter over the place 0,1mm smaller. So I could him it easily downward push and had only shortly before its final position with easy hammer blows into its final position press.

    Into the M3 thread, in the ring, is screwed later an oiler.

    In the crank case I had attached a parting apart from the suitable diameter for the bush also.


    Into this parting the bush with its bar fits positively.


    The diameter of the bush is larger around 0.02 mm than the diameter in the crank cases. Thus the socket sits after that tightens the screws tightly secured.

    (Height of the engine up to now 22cm)


    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #17

  2. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello


    It continues to go with the piston. I turned these from aluminum. Lengthens 30mm, diameter 19,96mm (the diameter 0,04mm is smaller than the inside diameter of the bush)







    For the following work procedures I need the still following parts.
    Piston ring, 2 slip pieces, and piston pin


    I pressed the slip pieces in the vice in the piston pin.



    The piston pin connects later the piston with the piston rod.


    Into the groove of the piston I could put the piston ring from grey cast iron now.





    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #18

  3. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Now I could put the piston on the piston rod.



    The rough wheel from cast part-corrode.


    And now completely works on. (Diameter 75mm, height of 20mm)





    Now I could install all past individual parts. (I lubricated all mobile parts with oil.)



    If I turn now at the wheel, all mobile parts run low-friction and without friction.


    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #19

  4. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Today I build the crank handle.
    In addition I need the following individual parts.


    As the first I could solder the crank handle and the axle together.


    After that serge.




    If you now asked it why at end the axle two surfaces in the 14° angle are attached, can you perhaps of it remind at end the crankshaft the same surfaces are.


    The surfaces of the crank and the wave interlink exactly.

    This construction has the following sense:
    To start the engine must one the crank turn, after a few revolutions should he then start. Thus the engine the crank does not drag the crank along now by the bevels of only two millimeters is outward pressed. Now the crankshaft cannot turn, the crank handle however. And the operator can, by whom rotary crank suns, is not injured.

    Still the camp from brass is missing by a set-screw at the crankshaft housing is fixed.



    And here the result of the today's building report.








    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #20

  5. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello


    It continues to go with the cylinder head. (Rough part from cast part-corrode)


    Today I worked on it finished. With the function of the individual openings I will deal gradually in the building report.
    (Length: 58mm, diameter: 42mm, height: 33mm)













    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #21

  6. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello


    Now I needed still a holding ring, two half rings and an O-ring


    The half rings were put now into the groove of the bush. And the O-ring was put above on the stage.


    Now I could raise the guard ring to the half rings in the parting in the guard ring to disappear.


    To the conclusion the cylinder head could be attached and be bolted with M 2.5 screws.









    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #22

  7. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello


    The cylinder head could be cooled with water, as functioned shows I you today.
    In addition I need two pipes (diameter 6mm) and a cylinder head cover (diameter 35mm).


    The large hole above has a connecting bore to the hole at the outside diameter.


    After I had soldered a pipe into the cover could I the cover on the cylinder head screw. The second pipe on the side is glued later.



    Now one could attach a hose to the two pipes and pump through water.


    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #23

  8. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    For the next section I need a feather/spring.
    And today I want to show you as I thereby proceed.

    First I need a spring wire in the suitable strength, in my case have the wire a diameter of 0.8 mm.
    The inside diameter of the feather/spring must become large 6.1 mm. Thus the core must around which I the spring wire winds to be smaller, since the feather/spring expands after the winding again something.
    One could calculate the minor diameter or one depends simply on empirical values. In my case I selected a wave with a diameter of 5mm.

    I stretch the core now in the Three jaw chuck. I wedge the spring wire between core and a cheek.


    With pliers hold I the wire tension. With the other hand I turn the Three jaw chuck.
    (Man could let the turning lathe run also with a slow number of revolutions.)


    With wind must one watch out that the upward gradient remains even.


    Caution with let go the pliers, the wire springs back and could lead to injuries.


    The finished feather/spring has an inside diameter of 6.15 mm and is 16 mm long.


    For which I need the feather/spring betrayal I you in the next building report.


    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #24

  9. gbritnell's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    George
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    Hi Jens,
    It looks like your work is proceeding very well. It will be a very nice engine when finished.
    gbritnell
    QUOTE QUOTE #25

  10. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Next I turned the selection valve guide and the exhaust valve.


    The 45° angle at the valve and the guidance seals by the spring tension hermetically.



    I could press the selection valve guide now into the cylinder head.





    To the conclusion I had to only bore the lateral hole for the exhaust gases into the selection valve guide.



    If later the bumper down against the valve presses opens it and the exhaust gases can by the exhaust escape.


    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #26

  11. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Today is the intake valve at the row.

    The following three parts make the beginning: the intake valve (from silver steel), the reading in valve insert (brass) and the feather/spring.


    The feather/spring keeps the valve closed.


    Then I need still another reading in valve housing (16 x 16 x 8 mm, from 2842 milled), one pipe (brass) and four M2 screws.


    The first building group now put into the housing…


    … and then I could clean-put and with a set-screw secure the pipe.


    As last necessary I still another poetry which I of a special seals paper cut out.


    Now I could screw the whole building group on the cylinder head. The poetry lies in between.





    If later the cylinder downward drives in the bush develops over it a vacuum that the intake valve opens and sucks in the mixture.
    At least in the theory, times look whether functioned.


    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #27

  12. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello


    Today is the oiler at the row.
    For the glass container I procured myself test tubes. (Diameter 11,3mm length 100mm)


    I have the test tube in the Three-jaw chuck of my turning lathe strained. Now I could sharpen with a diamond grinder a 6mm hole into the lower surface.


    Afterwards I have it on one lengthen from 13mm with a friction disk cut off.


    And in such a way the glass container at the end looks out.


    Are missing still a few parts which I from brass turned.


    And in such a way my oiler looks assembled out.



    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #28

  13. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello


    I had stuck the glass yesterday with 2-component adhesive on the upper and the lower part. After the adhesive is hardened would have the oiler to be close.
    Now I could to turn out the screw and fill in with a syringe oil.

    And in such a way the oiler at the engine looks out.





    Unfortunately the oiler does not have a function and serves only the optics.


    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #29

  14. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    First I prepared all parts for the exhaust. A small part from aluminum, two screws M 2.5, a flange (already soldered on) and the pipe.
    The pipe has an outside diameter of 8mm and an inside diameter of 7mm.



    Now the engine is already 32cm high.



    The small aliminium part is screwed under the cylinder head to the flange. I do not think for being converted times that with the cast part could.
    (Before I paint the engine later I the aliminium part will still prime.)






    Jens


    Daimler 1885 model engine, Replika on a scale approx. 1:3, fully functionally
    QUOTE QUOTE #30

  15. Egon's Avatar Moderator
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    egon
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    Beautiful machine, will you make a youtube film so we can hear it say puf puf.
    QUOTE QUOTE #31

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