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    1. Kit: , by (Established Member) Bender_13 is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jan 2016 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 12-16-11 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Hello

      A different model which I have built this summer.
      I hope this project will fit on Scale Motor Cars.

      In internet I've found an interesting page about High-wheel found. www.hochrad.info
      With the kind permission from the owner of Hochrad.info, all original pictures from the High wheel, I'll use in my building report from this page.

      This cycle it should be.


      We start with the two wheels.

      The original front wheel:




      And the original rear wheel:




      The rim:


      First I turned the two rims of brass.


      Suitable O-rings on the tires I've also picked out already.


      The 72 long and 24 short spokes are made of 0.5 mm wire.


      For drilling holes in the spokes of the wheel, I've rebuilt a helpful device.




      On the auxiliary device I glued one Template Without, I have to keep turning the wheel only to the next line to always get the correct hole spacing.


      With the small wheels, I am treated similarly.


      And it checks out the results.


      Next, the hub is your turn. Until now I've crossed the parts turned in a first on the right outside diameter, and glued a template center the position for the holes.



      Now I put the hub ready.

      First I drilled 0.5 mm holes in the hub.


      Then the parts were ready for the cast hub turned and stabbed.


      And the parts for the smal.


      The tube I have also been rotated.





      And on it goes.

      First, I rounded the rim inside. (With a little sandpaper and milling arbor)
      Not to polish off the rim, I've inserted into my 3in1 device, so I hold the wheel at


      Next, I cut new spokes made of brass, so I may as well be black stain as I did with the wheels and the axle into the hub. The rest of the brass parts of the hub remain so.
      Now I have inserted the device into my rim and the hub is screwed in the middle.
      Now I could pull one after another spoke through the rim and stick into the hub.

      The small wheel:






      The great wheel:






      When the glue has dried, I can take out the finished wheels.

      The spokes I've also fixed to the rim with 2-component adhesives.

      Now I must only file off the protruding spokes, then I can put even the O-rings.


      After I had removed the excess glue residue in the spokes and the rim with a file, I was able to pull the O-rings. In my example, the true also of solid rubber tires.









      Next, I deal with the front wheel fork.

      As first time a few pictures of the original parts that I rebuild now.
      The following two images show the upper part of the hub:




      The following figure shows a portion of the brake (bearing and spring):


      And protection of the pants, which is intended to prevent the steering when the pants of the rider touches the tire:


      Now for my components.
      First of a few views of my fork made of brass.



      First I turned the part and then just pure milled with a 5mm cutter by both sides up to half a groove. The two webs between the forks must now be removed. I had to leave the stability of form during milling.

      And finally a couple of items made of brass (some of the brake, the protective pants, etc.)



      First I milled the top of the fork.


      Then I started file the lower part.


      Now I was able to remove the webs and file down the fork inside and outside finish.


      Finally, I bent the two prongs outward.







      Today I pressed the bushing above the bracket for the steering rod is soldered. In addition, the assembly was bolted consisting of trousers protection, bearings for the brake and the spring for the brake from the bottom.




      So, next is the axle to the fork in the series.
      In the original, it looks like this:






      The parts I've ever prepared.



      These items have now been soldered.


      Has purely fit then I have the tubes on the fork so far been filed until the bearing accuracy.


      And now the whole thing was screwed to the wheel.






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  1. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
    Name
    Jens
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    May 2009
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    183
    It continues with the pedals.


    This time my brass version.




    I think the true roles of rubber on the pedals. The only way I remembered it, this is of two layers of red heat shrink tubing to make.
    This I have shrunk to a suitable brass shaft.


    After they were cut, I pressed it with a metal strip at regular intervals to create some structure.


    Here's the result.

    What do you think? I can give them a taste. Or? Of course I will still age at the end.

    And so they look at the pedals.




    And now I've screwed the assembly times on the front wheel.








    Now I'll show you the steering and the brakes nationals.
    First a few pictures from the original.










    The steering rod:


    For the first part of the brake, I bent a 4mm brass rod.



    Then I filed it in shape.


    The second part, I have also filed from the solid and then bent.


    And now the finished brake. Tighten the lever by which the "spoon brake" is pressed on the tread of the front wheel, the recoil spring / spring plate pushes underneath them back then to the starting point.











    Now, with the fork lacking only the handles.
    In the case of my example of the buffalo horn (there was also made of wood, or in very rare cases of ivory). But because buffalo horn is to get at us pretty hard, I have decided on the antlers of a deer as an alternative.
    First I shot a blank from the horn into the lathe.



    I then turned the handles still fast.





    Next, I may be black stain the pieces fit for the front fork and.


    All brass parts of the front forks were pickle and mounted.
    Only had the silver solder I conceal with something black in color (because they do not react with the means for black stain).













    Now we continue with the frame, fork and rear of the saddle spring.
    As always, first a few pictures from the original.




    The steering bearings (spindle):





    Since the frame is conical yes I have it in the lathe, sanded to size.
    Can be prepared on the length of brass rod, I turned to one end of a small waist (as a reference when sanding Article: Scratch Built High-wheel in 1:8th Scale
    ) and a 1mm hole drilled purely dip so that the traveling centering the lathe. Later there will be soldered to a pin make a stable connection to the fork.




    I hope you can see the result.


    The frame is not bent and the blank for the rear fork.


    The next parts are the stem and the sheet on which the later part is soldered.
    (The spindle sits later in the head (upper part of the front fork) with the lower tip of the fixed bearing and the upper tip of the screw in the top of the head. Readjust the screw through the game is set.)



    Original images of the saddle spring (it is screwed on the saddle):




    And finally my saddle spring:

    The spring I've soldered together from two separate parts.


    Last edited by Bender_13; 04-21-12 at 02:12 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #2

  2. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
    Name
    Jens
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    183
    At the rear fork, I'm the same as used for the front fork.


    Once the fork was done, I've bent the frame.


    I had drilled in both parts (frame and fork), a 1 mm hole is plugged into the front of the solder together a pen for a better, more stable connection to receive.


    Then came the opposite end of turn with the spindle and the spring seat.





    Now the frame are still missing the two performances (she used to go up and down).


    My two are from 0.5 mm brass sheet.





    So, the frame is pickle, assembled and bolted to the front fork.















    Images from the original saddle.




    In my opinion, the underside of the saddle from an art sheet pan. This was the original padded with horsehair and covered with leather.
    Using a wooden wedge could then be adjusted in the whole angle with the two screws and it is then bolted to the saddle spring.

    So to turn a thin brass plate in the form I needed a punch and a die.
    Step 1:


    Step 2 (The positive and negative form, I freehand milled into the wood.)


    The 0.3 mm brass sheet I heated before embossing with my gas burner. Thus, the sheet can be softer and thus easier to turn.
    I then placed it between the two forms of wood and compressed in a vise.






    Next, the part can be cut, filed and approved may be a little fudged.

    The saddle base has now in its final form, and I also have two soldered M1 screws.






    Then I drilled 6 holes on the back edge yet, here is riveted to the leather later.
    Then I pickle the part. And glued to the conclusion, a suitably tailored piece black foam as a cushion.





    It's done, my High-wheel is ready. (Only age I must have!)

    The model is 175mm high, 136mm wide and 200mm long. Working about 65 hours.

    First off, the referenced leather saddle. I glued the leather with UHU.


    Under the saddle, a wooden wedge pushed and then bolted to the saddle spring to the frame.


    And now the finished wheel

















    Finally, the High-wheel was still a bit aged. With paint and pigments.
    Here are some pictures of the result.













    QUOTE QUOTE #3

  3. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    The lamp is as you can see in the picture (between the spokes and introduced) attached to the hub.


    Two more images of the original lamp.




    The housing and the lid, I cut from 0.3 mm brass sheet.


    Then I bent the two parts and rightly filed.


    And so behold the assembled from parts.


    To the case I ever get the hanger with hinge soldered.


    I then filed the suspension still cope.



    Now the pieces for the lid turn.





    For the lens I found in my stock with a plastic lens.


    In order to spin to the right diameter, I was the first masked to protect the surface of both sides with tape.
    Then I have the lens with the help of two brass parts and the rotating center of the lathe tense.


    Now I could turn to the correct diameter.


    In the cover I have now filed the appropriate hole.





    First I soldered the parts for it.


    I then filed the handle portion. Here are the results together with the rear of the lamp.


    And folded.





    I hope you liked this building report. And I hope my English is understandable.


    Kind regards Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #4

  4. 3.Star's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Michael J.
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    Hello Jens,

    fine to see your Hochrad here, I am quite sure that this mechanical piece of art will attract interest. I was always wondering how you fiddled the front lamp to the hub of the built wheel. Don't worry about the language skills, it is an international forum with one common language....large scale.

    Cheers
    Michael
    Last edited by 3.Star; 12-16-11 at 02:58 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #5

  5. Egon's Avatar Moderator
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    egon
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    What ! No candle in the lamp Beautiful Bike.
    QUOTE QUOTE #6

  6. Ton's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Ton
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    Another masterpiece Jens!
    Regards

    Ton
    QUOTE QUOTE #7

  7. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Ton, you took the words right out of my mouth. Jens, we're going to have to give you the name Der Meister Modellbauer. I hope I said that right.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #8

  8. Brizio's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Brizio
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    That's a fantastic work!
    QUOTE QUOTE #9

  9. gbritnell's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    George
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    Beautiful work. Your writeup was excellent with the step by step process. I like how you used different material such as the antler for some of your parts.
    gbritnell
    QUOTE QUOTE #10

  10. Tony's Avatar Active Member
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    Tony
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    Sep 2010
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    I'm just amazed at the skills, wow nice work, and the way you tackle the build is great
    Thanks for sharing
    It's easier to destroy, than it is to create
    QUOTE QUOTE #11

  11. dpride's Avatar Active Member
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    David
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    Sep 2011
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    A wonderful model. Nice to see the in-depth description also.
    QUOTE QUOTE #12

  12. Auréance's Avatar Active Member
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    Gilles
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    Oct 2011
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    Where is the button “to vote for”? Beautiful work, good WIP Article: Scratch Built High-wheel in 1:8th Scale of photographs - Practically not need for explanations.
    QUOTE QUOTE #13

  13. 5thwheel's Avatar Active Member
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    William
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    Nov 2012
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    33
    Jens, Your build speaks a universal language. Very nice work. Thank you for showing it to us.
    Bill
    QUOTE QUOTE #14

  14. DaRELL's Avatar Member
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    Darrell
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    Jan 2013
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    2
    WOW beautiful work, love to look at the craftsmanship. I hope to be that good someday
    QUOTE QUOTE #15

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