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Now that the holes for the head have been drilled, I need to put on the bumps onto the head. I forget what the bumps are called but you'll see them in the pics. The pictures demonstrate how the areas were lined up so that the bolts will come through unobstructed. The pictures should be self explanatory for how to make them. If there are any questions, ask away and I'll do my best to answer them. The rings were cut off the drilled rod and cemented with liquid cement.
They're called bolt bosses Jeff.. gringrin
Thanks Guido. Bolt bosses. I'll remember that. I've gone ahead and trimmed the bosses down, made the holes for the spark plugs and set in some brass bolts for the removable spark plugs. I also shot my first coat of working primer. There are a few defects to fill and I still need to trim some more off the bosses to get them to look more natural. I did make one booboo though. If you look at the real head, the bolt holes are higher on mine than on the original. I'm still deciding if I'm going to remake that part or not.
I've decided to leave the head as it is. I know I'm striving for accuracy but it would mean remaking the entire cylinder bank and everything else. That was a lot of work. Plus, if I remake the whole deal, I'll also have a much more difficult time making the head removable and getting the lower holes lined up right. When the heads are painted and installed, I think they'll look pretty good anyhow. Besides, being a novice at this, I'll probably make a lot of other accuracy boo boos.
Hey Jeff. Do you own some dial or digital calipers? if not, get'em!! Harbor Freight carries them. 1thumbup1
I've got a good set of calipers but the measurements weren't the problem. When you see how I stabilized the bolts, you'll see why it wound up the way it did. Let me do some thinking and some problem solving and I'll see if I can get a better design for the bolts. There's no time limit on this so I'd have no problem redoing anything. I can always use what I did as a test, evaluate the mistakes and redo the thing with better accuracy and quality. I really hate to leave it if it's not right.
As I sat here in my chair pondering the dilemma of the misplaced holes and whether or not to correct it, I got a visit form both Supermodeler and the Shadow. They gave me some dirty looks and told me that at this size, a mistake like I made could get me censured by all the great model organizations in this world. I'd never be considered for membership and if I were a member, it would get me expelled to wander the hobby stores unfulfilled. Supermodeler himself told me that if I didn't act swiftly, I wouldn't be able to stand up along side the modelers on this great site. I can tell you that I immediately saw the light and went into the workshop and corrected my heinous and horrific error. I cut a piece out of the block and relocated the cylinder bank outward about 3mm. I also took about a millimeter off the outer edge of the cylinder bank for a total of 4 mm relocation. I also took the head and removed 4 mm from the outer edge and added 4 mm at the inner edge which relocates all of the holes 4mm outward into the correct position. I also filled an extra bolt hole and now the head looks like it should. Mistake corrected. If it weren't for Supermodeler and the Shadow, I'd be condemned to walk this world in total shame.
Jeff, I read your last post a number of times and the time has come for you to walk your own path (grasshopper) teach, share and fulfill your dreams. You have the ability to accomplish anything. Over the last couple of years you've done this old fart proud. I held out my hand and said when you can grab the seed you will be "one". Done deal. The only help I can offer at this point is to suggest that you take the time to learn how all these pieces actually work and function rather than just execute them from research.
Welcome to the league of extraordinary modelers big guy. Watch out guys here comes HFC, "Master Modeler".
I'm absolutely humbled by your kind words Don. Fortunately, I have been reading about how many of these parts work. My biggest problem is just some terminology.
The differences between the flathead and the overhead are fascinating to follow. I've even been studying a little chassis engineering. By the time I finish this Lincoln, I should know the car inside and out.
Jeff, buddy, your doing a HELLOFAJOBA here, keep it up, mistakes are a part of learning!
He who doesn't fall, isn't human...
As mere mortals we do things wrong untill we make them right! That's one of the beauties of it all...
Hats off to Mr. Jeff, what a wonderful build he's doin...1clap1 1clap1 1clap1 !!!
Mario & The Shadow
Thanks Mario. Mistakes don't bother me or get me upset. Again, there's no time limit so it doesn't pay to leave things if they're not up to standards. That's the biggest part of the learning experience. Plus, it develops a strong sense of problem solving. The idea is not just to build a big toy car, the idea is to engineer and build a large accurately scaled, highly detailed quality replica of a fine motorcar. It's a big job but I have a lot of inspiration to draw from and alot encouragement from all of you members of SMC. Thanks for making this build enjoyable and fun.
I went back to the table and I corrected the head. Here's the pics of the head side by side to show the difference. I still have to do a little more clean clean up around the bolt bosses. Then I can hit it with some primer and fill the defects.
Isn't 1/6th a cool scale to work with.......I find it a lot easier to work with and add detail to the larger parts.
If you had a nicely equipped machine shop and all the time in the world, 1/6 is big enough where you could almost create every last part of the real car. If you wanted too, that is...
This 1/6 scale stuff is amazing. All of the stuff that's too big for the small scales is just the right size and a lot cheaper than the parts made for the smaller scales. I can't wait until I can take some outside pics of the completed model.