Another TDR Offy build

[sydeem]

Rather than hog Daytonatim’s thread I will start my own. One thing about this model is TDR provides an abundance of detail parts as shown in image 1. I plan to deviate from the provided parts as I experiment with details. For instance I will replace the provided detail at the bottom of the block on one side with washers and screws plus a styrene cover plate as mocked up in image 2. I think 0.8 cap screws might work for attaching the upper side plates and 1.1 cap screws for the bottom plates as mocked in image 3. I just doubt my ability to make up proper studs and nuts as on the real engine. Anyway this is a start.

[Daytonatim]

The bolts look perfect Syd. Where did you get them, here at SMC?

[hot ford coupe]

The bolts look almost like they came from Scale Hardware.

[sydeem]

The bolts are from *************
http://www.******************/threaded_bolts1.htm

They have Simulated Hex Nuts but not the right size for the block.

[sydeem]

Trying to figure out the best time to drill small holes. My tied old eyes can’t seem to find the holes without some enhancement.

Image 1 is a side plate where I tried to darken the holes with a fine pencil point. Image 2 shows the points better when viewed upside down. The corner holes will be a problem to try to drill with my dremel . Guess they will require hand drilling. Note the bottom corner has a chip where one hole will go. Image 3 shows a side plate with light coat of primer (apparently not light enough as I covered most of the holes.) Image 4 shows the bottom of the primed plate (might be the easiest to see the holes and the positioning pins will then not make the plate wobble.)

Really looks like the best time to drill is before sanding and with darkened holes on the opposite side???

[Don Garrett]

Syd, because these parts are keep so close to scale they tend to get a bit thin in some areas, I wouldn't recommend using a Dremel for any of the bolt holes. Rather go slowly with a pin vise and a small bit........one of those magnifying head band things helps here. If you have the patience start with a bit smaller than you actually need...when the holes are drilled, prime and move up to a larger bit using the first as a pilot hole.

[Daytonatim]

Syd, I use my cordless dremel tool. I can slow it down to almost 0 rpms.

My first hole I drill is with a bit that is .022".....real small and then I step it up from there. I have not had much of a problem with breakout of the sides except when I try to drill too deep, more than about 3/16"

Tim

[hot ford coupe]

I usually drill my holes well before the sanding begins but I don't drill the holes to full size until just before I prime. That way, the hole positions are still unmistakable and if an area gets too thin, I can repair a small hole much easier than a big one. Also, if you sand first, you obscure the bolt positions and have to hope you get it right later. And finally, make sure your new bolts fit the holes well but not tightly before you paint. Otherwise, you wind up excessively handling your painted part to widen the holes and you can crack your part around the holes. I've experienced that one first hand. Felt kinda dopey when it happened. P';,[p

[whodaky]

Got my Offenhauser today along with the MF 1/8th Willy's body. Both amazing models.
I would love to watch first hand the process that produces the Offenhauser, the detail is amazing. The inside spline on the flywheel is absolutey incredible.
As has been said elsewhere, these kits are not for the novice and I can see that a lot of care is needed to build one of these scale engines.
But these will have to wait as I have another 1/8th project on the go!
Goee aka whodaky

PS thankyou to you guys for your committment to these refreshing new 1/8th models and bodies.

[sydeem]

All good points Daytonatim and HFC. I tend to crash through to the end of everything which is why my block and heads were over sanded. No patience and not experienced with working with my hands. I will post all my mishaps to hopefully deter others from making them.