My 1/24 scale Thunderbolt.

[hot ford coupe]

I've done a little more on the T Bolt tonight and did a partial mock up to see how big this thing is going to be. I had to use a dollar bill for reference because the coin was just too small.

I also had to modify the ducting under the engine because it wasn't shaped right. If you look at the previous pic, the ducting is way too short and too flat. The head on picture of the engine shows by way of the black arrow how that area waas modified. I just took the original part, added a piece of styrene and carved it to shape. I also modified the cowl flaps by drastically thinning them out and opening them up. They were about a mm thick which would translate to about an inch thick on the real thing. I still have to add the pins that open the flaps. The metal between the flaps are small pieces of soda can aluminum glued in place.

[hot ford coupe]

If you want to go insane, try this. I cleaned up the cowl and sprayed it classic white lacquer. I polished the paint and then applied the checkerboard decals of the 78th FG. You pull one side of the decal into position and another side goes out of whack. You adjust again and pull another side out of whack. I think both sides took me over a half hour to get into position. Then I brushed on some Solvaset and they got really wrinkled like they were supposed to. Lo and behold, when I looked at the cowl an hour later, the decals were snug up tight in the right positions. I sprayed on 3 coats of semi gloss clear lacquer and smoothed it out with a 6000 and 8000 grit pad. I could have sworn the whole thing would come out looking like I did the decals with a meat cleaver. Very strange stuff. Next, I applied some flat aluminum BMF to the cowl flaps and rubbed them down with 0000 steel wool. It took the graininess right out and gave me a pretty realistic metal skin. You can see in the last picturre how the cowl flaps look slightly opened. You definitely have to thin down the flaps before you open them or else the flaps would translate into 1 inch thick in 1:1. The rear of the engine will never be seen so I left it alone. Next, I prepare the body and wings and get them set for some foil skin. With a little care, BMF and kitchen foil can be done with pretty good results. After I get far enough with the fusilage, I'll try to do a tutorial on it. Here's the cowl.

[Texas]

Really Coming Along.....That's a great job your doing...

Texas

[hot ford coupe]

Over the last couple of days, I've been working on a problem very common to that in model hot rodding. This kit is pretty good but when some of the parts are attached, the space between them is way out of scale. I spent a few days adding pieces of styrene here and there before I put on the filler. The pictures show where the styrene went. The next step is to skim over the trimmed built up areas with filler putty to smooth things out and give me a nice surface to add foil.

I also covered the separate rudder with BMF. The trick there is once the BMF has been pressed down, I then rub over it with 4-0 steel wool and put a grain in it. Some pieces I rub sideways and some other panels I rub vertically. That gives the impression of different color panels.

[hot ford coupe]

It's been a while since I posted some work on the T bolt. I've been doing some minor corrections here and there and I'm almost done with the gun bays. I've also been experimenting with using metal foil for a natural metal finish. I think I have it down. The best result I got was to use regular kitchen foil stuck on with Microscale metal foil adhesive. I then scrubbed the foil in one direction only with 0000 steel wool. By varying the direction of the graining, the foil looks like differently shaded panels. This technique is also a lot better than trying to use BMF. The BMF tends to come out on the pebbly side because of the distribution of the adhesive. The Microscale glue doesn't cause the pebbling in the foil. It comes out nice and smooth. Add a little black wash, wipe off the excess and you have real metal panels.

[Lancair IV]

It's been a while since I posted some work on the T bolt. I've been doing some minor corrections here and there and I'm almost done with the gun bays. I've also been experimenting with using metal foil for a natural metal finish. I think I have it down. The best result I got was to use regular kitchen foil stuck on with Microscale metal foil adhesive. I then scrubbed the foil in one direction only with 0000 steel wool. By varying the direction of the graining, the foil looks like differently shaded panels. This technique is also a lot better than trying to use BMF. The BMF tends to come out on the pebbly side because of the distribution of the adhesive. The Microscale glue doesn't cause the pebbling in the foil. It comes out nice and smooth. Add a little black wash, wipe off the excess and you have real metal panels.

I agree with the kitchen foil. That's all I use and it looks much better. And a lot cheaper. Post some pics when you get a chance.

Cheers

[hot ford coupe]

I definitely will post the pics. Tonight. I fixed the problems I had with my left gun bay. The instructions tell you to put all the gun parts together first and then set the whole assembly into the gun bay. Do it this way and you're guaranteed a rotten fit. The best way is to do it backwards by cementing the guns in first and then the ammo chutes and finally the gun barrels. I made the gun barrels out of 3/32 " tubing. Another thing, I don't remember if I pointed this out but the instructions are loaded with mistakes. A little careful dry fitting and you'll be able to figure it out. One more thing. If you remember, we always talked about good prep being a most important step. You better believe it. If the plastic surface is not polished and I do mean shiny polished, every defect on the surface will show up like a light house beacon. Pics will be coming soon when I get some good things to photograph. :)'

[Josh]

Man this is beautiful work what colour scheme are you painting it in? all of my model aircraft are aussie based markings and paint schemes. i really love these american colour schemes. josh

[hot ford coupe]

Thanks Josh. I'm glad you like it. I'll be finishing the model with foil for a natural metal finish. I've been experimenting with it and I still have a lot to learn but when it comes to a natural finish, you can't beat real metal. There are a few other aircraft I'll be making with a painted finish. One is a P 40 B in AVG colors and the other is a Spitfire in secret markings.(in other words, I don't know how I'm going to finish the Spit.)

Some of the better finishes came late in the war when the camo scheme wasn't needed anymore. In all theaters of the war, they used some really wild color combinations. Most of them were unpainted also to save weight. A typical B17 saved a whopping 44 pounds going natural.

[jamewatson]

It is really amazing work you have done, its difference a bit of fine wire makes to a radial engine, I heartly appreciate your work, thanks for sharing.