A re-re do on the R/M Big T

[Old Busted Hotness]

Most RC coilovers are going to be way too big. Even going down to 1/18 parts, the shock bodies will be larger than the OD of your current springs. But shocks are super easy to build, all you need is two different diameters of styrene or brass tube.

Put a Jag rear end under it!

[Don Garrett]

In addition to what Stu said.......you can get a handful of just about any size springs at most hardware stores for the coil overs.

[topher5150]

what about a smaller scale?

[Don Garrett]

Same deal Kristopher.....just smaller.

[spinellid82]

As far as shocks go the only difference between scales is that the smaller you get the harder they are to see. You cen even just wrap some wire around a bolt or screw if you can not find the size spring you need. Just remember that if you use wire the shocks can not be made functional.

Good luck!

[Old Busted Hotness]

Unfortunately, some things just don't scale down for RC use. A 1/10 scale shock is closer to 1/4 scale, in order to get useful travel, good damping and enough material strength to survive. When you scale them down, all of those are compromised. A 1/18 scale car uses shocks that are closer to 1/6. Go down to 1/24 and they use pen springs. The hardware is close to the right size, but the shock body is only 3/32 OD and overall length is less than an inch. There's no damping in those, really they're just spring holders.

[topher5150]

I think I found a solution. I found some piano wire in my drawer the same o.d. as one of my pin drills. I re-glued the mounting parts for the radius rod and the shock in the back, let it set over night :D, and now it seems to be holding up pretty good.

[Don Garrett]

Kris what are you using for adhesive to hold your kit parts together? If it's that model cement stuff that comes in the squeeze tubes that's why your model fell apart in the first place.

[Dougritt]

Don-

What about making your shocks from brass and aluminum? All you need are tubing, disc cutter and a dremel !

[topher5150]

Kris what are you using for adhesive to hold your kit parts together? If it's that model cement stuff that comes in the squeeze tubes that's why your model fell apart in the first place.

I've been using the standard model glue. I haven't had very many problems with, the front axle of this build broke off by the spindle and it's been holding together just fine. I think part of the problem is this model was sitting by a window which someone climbed through. It didn't look they hit any thing but I'm thinking that's what may have happened.

[Don Garrett]

The story I've heard most commonly is that whenever Testors took whatever the ingredient (that was getting the glue sniffers high) out of the adhesive it lost much of it's ability to hold parts firmly over time. This may be just a rumor but personally it has been very disappointing to me.
I either use a "hot" solvent type liquid glue to fuse the plastic together or a thick formula CA if I don't want to "melt" the plastic. If you're happy with what you are using that's what you should use.

[topher5150]

The story I've heard most commonly is that whenever Testors took whatever the ingredient (that was getting the glue sniffers high) out of the adhesive it lost much of it's ability to hold parts firmly over time. This may be just a rumor but personally it has been very disappointing to me. I either use a "hot" solvent type liquid glue to fuse the plastic together or a thick formula CA if I don't want to "melt" the plastic. If you're happy with what you are using that's what you should use.

I always liked the toxic stuff better. Does anyone know the exact name of this kit?

[Old Busted Hotness]

That is one of the many variations of Monogram's Big T. Early-mid 80's I believe, kit number 854163. Same as the Golden T, but without the gold plating.

Could also be the 1979-issue Street T, if it's molded in red.

[topher5150]

It's not that old I bought it brand new in the early 2000s. Was this not a very popular model I had a hard time finding very much about it online.