Dave's Gow Job Modified

[Gluhead]

Yep I dig that car.

I need some K-H's myself for an upcoming project so I've been keepin' my eyes out for a good deal on the Lindberg kit (that '40 rear would be nice too). One of the newer members here has a pic of his using the Lindberg centers (with the spokes) and the Deuce rims. Looked pretty good to me. The pic is here...

http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/...read.php?t=417

Glu

[Dave McGowan]

There's a good how-to by Roger Lee on lacing your own, including how to secure everything in the "jig" at http://www.straightlinemodeler.org

[Dave McGowan]

I pulled it back out of the garage again today, and I think I may stay with the Lindberg wheels and tires, just to keep things simpler - if I overcomplicate this project, I'll NEVER get it done. I just cut down part of the battery enclosure from the Custom T 3in1 kit to use it as a bellypan under the narrowed T body, and I'm trying to decide which way to go as far as a grille shell goes - I think I need to get out some of my old dirt track roadster articles and get a good feel for this little bugger.

Dave

[ScaleMotorcars]

Hey Dave. Good to see ya dug it out again. Check out my Fotki link in the pictures thread. http://public.fotki.com/scalemotorcars/

Theres a few hundred tether car pics. Some great grill ideals. Also about another 50 or so in the Tether car gallery. You never know where your going to find that perfect Ideal. :D Please keep us posted.

[Gluhead]

Dave I hear on keepin' it simple. Gotta pick yer battles wisely.

Glad to hear it's back on the bench!

Glu

[Dave McGowan]

Pics of the new bellypan, based in the AA battery tray from the Lindberg Custom T kit:


I'll make my own spring before I'm done, but here's the rear end mocked up with the kit spring:

[Don Garrett]

I like it. It's got style.:D

[Gluhead]

Oh I just noticed the body is painted. I dig that color. What's the rest of the color scheme gonna be?

Glu

[Don Garrett]

Had one too many crayons Glu?:p

[Dave McGowan]

I think it's all going to be bronze with ivory accents - maybe some black here and there. I'm going to try to letter/number it in ivory with some gold leaf .

[Gluhead]

Too few I think, Don!

That'll be sharp Dave.

Glu

[Dave McGowan]

After the correspondence in the "Rust Bucket" thread, I'm going to hook a left turn with this one. I'm going to turn it into a "recently freshened-up survivor".

There won't be a lot of heavy rust work, but I will concentrate on oxidized steel and aluminum finishes, semi-covered in a well-worn coating of tuscan maroon. Look for rock chips, oxidation, peeling paint and serious patina. I'm going to go for it and start building the inner-structure into the body, but I'll make sure to drill plenty of "lightening holes" in the braces.

I think I'm going to strip the wheels and engine back down and start their finishes from oxidized steel/iron. Actually, I think that's what's liable to happen to the majority of the parts on the car. Think of an old lakes/track modified that's been pulled out from behind a barn somewhere in San Bernadino by the grandson of the guy that built it, and then driven into Billetproof. That's where I'm going with it.

I'll try to illustrate some of my "tricks" as I perform them.

Dave

[hot ford coupe]

Please do, Dave. We'd love to learn the techniques for the weathering you described. It sounds like a fantastic idea.

[Dave McGowan]

Please do, Dave. We'd love to learn the techniques for the weathering you described. It sounds like a fantastic idea.

To start:

[B]Dave's Secret to Instant Oxidation[/B]
Take the part in question that you want to have a basic color of oxidized steel/iron, and put it in your spray booth, outdoors on a piece of cardboard or wherever you shoot your spray-bombs. Ready the two spray cans that make this all possible: Tamiya Light Gunmetal and Floquil Roof Brown spray lacquers. Base coat the piece in one color or the other - I usually start with the gunmetal, but I might use the brown first if I want a rustier look.
Grab the can that you DIDN'T use to basecoat the piece, and mist some of from every angle from two or three feet back. If it gets too heavy, just go back to the first color and mist some on. The more mist coats you use, the more pronounced the pitted, oxidized surface texture will become. You may take into account which side of the part would rust heavier and use that to determine the angles from which you spray each of the colors.

To dull-out and give an oxidized, pitted look to chrome parts, just mist a light coat of the Light Gunmetal over the chrome part. It will slightly dull the sheen, but will also add depth. Experiment with these - this is a very quick and easy way to produce instant patina, and look great as sprayed, or after further washes and/or drybrushing.