TDR 9" rear end build

[hot ford coupe]

That's how I did the alternator. I cut it into 2 pieces and then closed it back up again after I did the detail. It may take some fiddly time but it looks very possible. The detailing doesn't look too difficult if you use magnification.

[Don Garrett]

Syd....what you are calling the brake housing is the caliper. It (finished) should be one piece. There is a piston on one side that pushes against the pad on that side. The caliper (on a full size) would in turn slide slightly to pull the out board pad into contact with the disc. That way the pads on both sides come in contact with the disc. It's a lot easier for you to paint the pads and insides of the caliper halves before assembly. It should be easy enough to finish and touch up the seam after assembly. I don't have one in hand but I'm sure if I'm incorrect, Tony or Tim will let you know.

[ajwheels]

Hi Syd

Attached are a couple of pics that should help a bit..............the brake caliper as modeled is a 2 piece affair, bolted together, and is a rigid assembly bolted to the flange at the end of the axle tube..........most production calipers are a 2 piece assembly, with one piece that slides in and out, but these are fixed and do not move once assembled. The Wilwood illustration shows that the two caliper halves have a piece of tubing to allow fluid to flow from one half to the other.....this tube would be at the bottom of the assembly once the caliper is attached to the axle flange......at the top of the caliper would be, on one half (the outside half), a bleed screw fitting, and on the other half, the inlet for the brake fluid.

The brake pads slip into the caliper between the caliper half and the rotor face, and would be secured with a small rod that would go through the small tab on the caliper half, through the small tab on the backing plate of the inside pad, then through the small tab on the outer pad, and out through the small tab on the outer half of the caliper............

As for the rest of the assy, the intent is to use a 3/8" outside diameter tube, such as the Evergreen styrene piece, Item 232........though a brass tube would suffice. The center section, the outer axle flanges, the caliper mounting plates and the brake rotors have pilot holes, which when reamed out with a 3/32 drill bit, allow a 3/32 rod, brass or steel, to be used between the rotors and allow a rotating assy...............

I hope that this helps to get you a little closer................

Tony

[Don Garrett]

There you have it Syd, the pic you posted is a different style than the type Tony has in the kit......his set-up applies hydraulic pressure from both sides of the caliper. Great job Tony, thanks for the input.

[ajwheels]

Syd..............here are a couple of images which show some of the detail on the calipers.........note that the calaper halves are bolted together using allen hex-headed fasteners (modeled in the part, though the detail is mostly lost due to size)....and here you can see the brake fluid line at the bottom, and inlet and bleed screw fittings at the top, as well as the pin which secures the pads in place............also shown is a typical installation of this rear axle under a '32 Ford frame...............

Tony

[sydeem]

WOW - That is detailed help. I would have (and anybody could still if they wanted) modeled the wrong style. I will try the appropriate detail but if it becomes too much to handle, just fall back on the simple block caliper.

[hot ford coupe]

Wow, that's what I call some fantastic detail shots. Thanks AJ. I'm beginning to really love this new technology.

[ERA Chas]

Or you can study these Wilwoods. 12.125" x 1.125" rotors, 4 piston calipers, Hawk pads. Pin drive knockoff hubs.

[sydeem]

Nothing like the real thing for detail. Now I know what colors would be appropriate. Thanks.

[ERA Chas]

Nothing like the real thing for detail. Now I know what colors would be appropriate. Thanks.

My pleasure to all.

[Rick]

Hey Syd

Please do as you do and provide us with a build tutorial on the rear end.

[Don Garrett]

Ditto........

[sydeem]

The 9” Ford rear end kit is a good inexpensive kit for a modeler to gain experience with the TDR material or an even less expensive entry would be just the disk brake kit. Almost every tool one would need for any of the most advanced kits would be useful here and all the mistakes one will make in learning will occur here.

An example is drilling the mounting holes for the brake pads. The slightest wiggle of a pin drill and a hole near the edge of thin material is toast. A drill press would not make that mistake. But being careful would not create the problem in the first place.

[sydeem]

I gave up all the tricky multicolor primer coats, etc. for sanding the RP material. Now I initially sand a surface gently by eye then hit it with a coat of primer or Mr Surfacer 500 to see the remaining defects such as the side above the shaft hole in image 1. Unfortunately pictures show up everything the eye does not notice.

As usual the kit holes are in exact placement for mating parts should bolts be desired instead of cutting octagonal styrene rod. In this case the axel end plate has cast in nuts that are useful because they will hardly be noticed on the finished product. Image 2 and 3 show the kit as received and as sanded and primed. A light surface sanding before drilling holes will bring them out for drill positioning.

Images 4 and 5 show the disk brake kit as received and as sanded after priming. There are some feature surface layers on the caliper attachment plate that can be brought out when sanding . Some other surface level variations (like a band around the brake disk) are apparently artifacts produced by the RP printer. This is one reason to look at the CAD pictures when finishing surfaces.