TDR 9" rear end build

[hot ford coupe]

Way to go, Syd.

[Daytonatim]

It sure is looking good!! Is this going on the frame that the TDR 426 is currently setting in?

Remember, start with a small drill bit and work your way up in 2 or 3 steps to get to the desired diameter. Also, always put just the slightest side ways pressure in toward the main meat of the part to minimize the chance of busting out the weak side.

I am going to have to get me some of that Mr Surface 500 stuff and give it a try.

Happy modeling
Tim

[Don Garrett]

Tim, MF can hook you up with a supplier for the 500, 1000, brush on and squirt can primer .
It ain't the cheapest stuff in town, but you get what you pay for and then some.
I'm sure it isn't good for me but the aroma from the aerosol can is quite pleasing.

[sydeem]

The differential end plates have cast in bolts with nuts cast on the backside of the disk brake mount. Of course the backside of the mount will not be seen, buried behind the brake disk. The cast in bolt head is certainly sufficient for display, as one will hardly ever see them buried behind the wheels. I am vacillating over still adding real bolts just for looks now. Decision later. Right now I have to attach the brakes to the mounts; the mount is only pressed onto the axel end plate for now to see how it will go together.

More care when sanding would have left more crisp details. Trouble is until you sand a little the features are not readily apparent. Maybe I should have hit the parts with primer first, maybe that would have made the features easier to see in the rough.

[Rick]

Looking good Syd. Are you going to use this rear end in your Deuce? If so, we'll be interested to see how you attach braketrey for the shocks and fourbar.

[sydeem]

There have been a number of 4 Bar solutions used throughout the forum but I am partial to this potential set up right now. It looks easy enough for you guys to produce sometime in the future.

[Don Garrett]

That's a sweet set-up Syd...the triangulated links eliminate the need for a pan-hard bar.

[Daytonatim]

Just out of curiosity, what would you guys use for the rod ends on that setup?

[sydeem]

If you could supply the chassis and axel mounts I would use styrene rod glued to cross styrene tube ends. The mounts could be sanded at what ever angle change might be necessary for each build.

I was just thinking of using styrene sheet sides over a styrene square rod for the chassis and one axel mount then hashing up something similar for the differential mount. But they would be ragged compared to what you could do.

[ERA Chas]

Just out of curiosity, what would you guys use for the rod ends on that setup?

A proper sized jewelery bead, sanded flat on each side (90 deg. to it's string hole) and then glued to styrene hex stock could work. Could even make an inner bearing out of sliced aluminum or brass tube pressed into the string hole. (Drilled for the tube of course.)
Paint with metalizers.

[sydeem]

Rushing along (someone with more patience could make things smoother and sharper but I can’t even wait for paint to dry) the disk brakes are done. I decided the level of detail I was doing would not benefit from using bolts for mounting the brakes to the axel (unless I change my mind later) so I will let the cast in bolts on the axel do for now.

The bolts attaching the caliper to its mounting plate just helped hold things together while gluing . Don't think w will see them when the assembly is complete but who knows?

[hot ford coupe]

Looks like the real thing to me.

[Deuces-wild II]

Looks great Syd!!

[sydeem]

Zipping along – it pays to hold the brake mounting plate against the disk while the glue dries to insure the caliper, plate and disk all line up as shown in image 1. I have been using 00-90 brass nuts from Dan’s store for almost all my copper wire mounting without mentioning where I got them. The particular soft cooper wire used here is probably a gauge or so too large but it is the last of what I had. Would be nice if someone kitted some wire stock for various size nuts. This wire was oversize but the ends were filed to fit.

The differential front piece is just sitting on the differential, as I wanted to show off Dan’s cast stud/nuts from his store. I hate to keep just installing bolt heads, so seeing as all the reference photos showed stud mounting, they work. They might be a tad small but it saved me from drilling too close to the edge, as pin drills do not like me.

The axel tube to join the parts looks like it (by eyeball) should be about 1 ¼” in length. I left off gluing the differential parts together until I decide upon the rear end mounting configuration. I think once this is set up, the tubes should be attached and then puttied; otherwise, at my level, the joint will be too much of a gap to look good. This means repainting the axel tube/differential housing.

[xken]

The particular soft cooper wire used here is probably a gauge or so too large but it is the last of what I had. Would be nice if someone kitted some wire stock for various size nuts. This wire was oversize but the ends were filed to fit.

Sydeem, get a set of reamers, you can enlarge the holes to fit your wire regardless of size of wire. These are the handiest tools to have around. I use mine all the time.

This just happens to be one basic set available.

http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/26108_R.jpg

Ken