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    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) hot ford coupe is offline
      Builder Last Online: Mar 2021 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 04-17-09 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Here’s the thread I hope you’ve all been waiting for. I’ve had a good chance to evaluate the TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 and I’ll be documenting the build and super-detailing for the new TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 engine. Hopefully, this will serve as an instruction manual and a tutorial.

      [B][U]The Evaluation[/U][/B]
      First things first. Over all, I found this kit to be quite an excellent kit but it’s not for the rank beginner. I think at this point, the kit is ideal for the intermediate builder who has had some experience and success with aftermarket resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience engines whether in large or small scale. With a minimum of instruction, though, which what this manual should provide, anyone should be able to handle the build with a minimum of problems and challenges.
      The biggest concern is the roughness of the surfaces. It wasn’t a major thing for the block since there you’ll want a sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience cast finish but on some of the smooth parts, especially the thin ones, you’ll need to proceed with care. Still, the roughness should not be considered a deal breaker when you’re thinking of buying one of these beauties.
      Speaking of the thin parts, they can break very easily if you handle them roughly. When you sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience them, go a bit slower. There’s no real rush and the result will be well worth the effort.
      The next concern is the fit of the parts. I was really happy to see these parts fit together so well. Even with some of the roughness on the mating surfaces, the parts went together extremely well. The fit reminded me of how a really great injection molded kit goes together. I don’t even feel you’ll need to worry much about adding filler.
      A third concern is the accuracy. To be totally honest, I’m not all that familiar with the correct measurements of the real thing but considering the folks who put the time and effort into this venture, I wouldn’t worry about accuracy. I’m sure that has all been addressed.
      Another great thing is that you can build this kit the way you want. There are plenty of options available. All you’ll need is a little planning.
      When all is said and done, I think this kit is a huge winner. IMHO, it’s better than a resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience kit. The parts are light, accurate, well made and extremely consistent in thickness unlike resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience castings. There’s absolutely no part shrinkage or warping. You will definitely need to put a little effort into the preparation, but no one ever said if you put the parts in a bag with some glue and paint and shake, a completed model will fall out. TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience , you done great. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.


      The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
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  1. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I decided to cheat on my waiting time for polishing one of the valve covers and did a little experimenting. This is just a preview of what will come in a few days when I put together the polishing tutorial. The only surface I polished was the top surface. The whole thing can be made like this.

    I also included a pic of the crank pulley and the cooling fan. Both will be weathered after installation.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Attached Images Attached Images The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09894-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09877-jpg 
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #47

  2. Mario Lucchini's Avatar Super Moderator
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    Mario
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    Quote Originally Posted by hot ford coupe View Post
    I decided to cheat on my waiting time for polishing one of the valve covers and did a little experimenting. This is just a preview of what will come in a few days when I put together the polishing tutorial. The only surface I polished was the top surface. The whole thing can be made like this.

    I also included a pic of the crank pulley and the cooling fan. Both will be weathered after installation.
    WOW Jeff, that's mirror finish, BEAUTIFUL!!.....I'm experimenting with Nickel baths for metal AND plastics, I'm posting the results soon (Tutorial?)...

    Regards

    Mario
    QUOTE QUOTE #48

  3. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Nickel baths would be great. I'm wondering if it would be less labor intensive than what I've been doing. I've also been using some K&S The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience tin .016 sheeting and have been polishing that. The parts have been looking pretty good so far.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #49

  4. troppo's Avatar Established Member
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    Sorry for the hijack, but in reading the various posts in the forum they all have different tips on finishing, modifying or construction, would it be worth setting up a tips biard where all these magic tricks could be posted together, kinda like a "tips from the pros" section.
    Maybe even in a reference book style forum.
    Sorry again for the hijack
    Cheers
    Troppo
    QUOTE QUOTE #50

  5. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I hear what you're saying, troppo. I've already got several tutorials waiting for to be written once I get the technique out of experimentation. The tutorial for polishing the valve covers will be completed on Sunday when I'll be able to start sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience the metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . I'm still experimenting with a few other things that will have tutorials written. For example, I'm going to do one on making working parallel springs out of metal. I'll also be doing one on how to drop the front end on the deuce kit more than it's dropped. There are also more upholstery tutorials coming up. It all takes time so if you can hang in there, it will all be presented for the whole membership.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #51

  6. Buildlarge's Avatar Established Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by hot ford coupe View Post
    I'm still spraying a few more coats of aluminum onto the valve covers so I can't polish them up just yet. Since I have my photo table back from my son-in -law who's moving out in a couple of days, I took a few shots of one of the Cord's bullet headlights. The valve covers will get the same treatment in about a weeks time. I have to let the metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience cure The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience well before I sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience it. The first picture makes the surface look very cloudy and dull. That's basically an artifact. The second picture shows the actual shine on the surface.
    I can not wait to see these on the Cord. I have found that sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience the part to a absolute slick finish, polish w/toothpaste, then spray w/favorite flavor of paint/metalizer, buff out with super fine piece of leather. Results in a part that looks as if made from metal and or chrome plated The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . Discovered this trick while building 1/24 Dragsters. The engine is coming along beautifully. Rick
    QUOTE QUOTE #52

  7. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Thanks Rick. That's basically the way I polish also. I fiugure this technique out when I finished polishing another paint color and spilled some SNJ metal dust on it. When I tried to clean it off the painted surface, the surface turned into chrome and shone like the top of the Chrysler Building.

    I've included another part in this post. Below is a 95% completed alternator. You can see the rotor and the copper wiring inside. This is relatively easy to do but it's tedious. A tutorial will come in a short while. I'm a bit under the weather with a heck of a cold so putting together a complete tutorial is a bit difficult.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Attached Images Attached Images The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09914-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09922-jpg 
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #53

  8. troppo's Avatar Established Member
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    Look after yourself mate, your health is more important than any tutorial



    but i`m still looking forward to it
    QUOTE QUOTE #54

  9. Rick's Avatar Member
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    Rick
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    Wow, nice work on the alternator Jeff!!
    QUOTE QUOTE #55

  10. 46SuperDeluxe's Avatar Active Member
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    Gary
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    Yea Jeff,
    Nice work on the alternator. The detailing of the copper wire on the stator and the iridited(sp?) rotor are great. Looks just like one my old '69 Charger that I used to have. -Gary
    QUOTE QUOTE #56

  11. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Thanks Gary. The way I did the alternator was not really that difficult, just a bit tedious. Here's how it went down.

    The first thing I did was to cut the stock alternator in half and start to hollow it out. You'll have to do this in several steps so you don't over or under cut your material. Next, I selected a drill bit and drilled a hole between each fin. I then started to shape the slot with very small needle files and finished the corners with a hand help jeweler's saw blade without the frame. Once the slots are done, I cut the three holes in the front of the alternator. At this point, I can finish hollowing out the inside since I'll be able to judge my thicknesses looking through the holes and slots. The back is done the same way. I then primed and painted the frame with Metal Master's Aluminum plate.

    Next, I took a .005 thick piece of brass sheet, scribed a circle the size that will fit inside the front piece and cut out the circle. After smoothing and rounding up the circle, I divided it into 8 pie pieces and scribed the lines. With a sharp scissors, I cut on the scribed lines about 2/3 toward the center of the circle. I had to make 8 cuts. With a small needle nose pliers I bent the edge over like the completed rotor and started to trim the rotor blades to their final shape. Then it was cemented inside onto the inside of the front piece with CA.

    The part with the copper wire on it is nothing more than a styrene The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience disc about 3mm thick and carefully fitted inside the alternator frame. Once that disc was smoothed, I drilled 16 holes into the face of the disc close to the edge without breaking it. I painted it flat black and once dry, I threaded 30 guage wire I found at the beading section of Hobby Lobby in one hole and out until the wire looked like my research pics. I used a pin from time to time to widen the holes a bit so I can get as much wire as I could onto the disc. The finished disc was placed insid and the back was cemented to the front. If you can't get the parts together, you may have to do a little more gentle hollowing until the parts will fit together. Sorry I have no pics but this cold really has me laid up.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #57

  12. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I've now waited the requisite 3 days for the paint to cure The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and I'm ready to polish the valve covers. To recap some of the previous work, I sanded the valve covers, as smooth as I could before painting and then used my primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience as a guide coat for the sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . Once the raw cover is smooth, I used 2 coats of Tamiya The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience gray primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience which is thinner The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and smoother than Model Master's gray primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . Onde the primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience dried for 48 hours, I sprayed on Model Master's Aluminum plate and let that set for 24 hours. I then recoated the piece for a total of 8 coats and let that set for 24 hours. After that, I took a soft cloth and rubbed the whole painted surface to a good shine. This seems to compress the particles in the paint matrix and will give you a better surface to work. Wait for 2 more days to start polishing. Photo #1 shows the sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience pads I use. They're the same ones I use to polish lacquer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience body paint. Remember this. You must do this sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience under water to keep sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience particles from cutting into the paint surface. If you fell any "grinding" under your fingers, you have debris trapped between your pad and the valve cover. Stop immediately and inspect your surface for deep scratches. You may need to stop and respray a coat if the scratches are deep so be gentle.

    If your surface is relatively smooth, you can start with the 3200 pad. Use the 2400 to start if your surface is really pebbly. Be careful also at the corners so you con't cut through the metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . A good protection against finger prints is to do this procedure with rubber gloves. Continue all the way up to the 12000 and your sirface should be shiny smooth. You can stop there but I go one step further. Photo#2 shows SNJ spray metal polishing powder. I think you can still get this stuff but you have to search that out on the net. I really don't know who took over it's manufacture. Take a soft cloth and a small bit of powder and rub the surface until it shines. A very little amount of this stuff goes a long way and you don't want this powder all over yourself and your work bench. Don't inhale this stuff either. Once you have polished your cover, ony pick it up with the gloves or a tissue or else you will get finger prints which are hard to remove. If you want less of a shine like polished aluminum, you can stop polishing at 8000 or even 6000 depending on your taste and how you want your metal to look. This procedure is not perfect, but a good alternative to other procedures that cost more and are more technique sensitive. It definitely beats kit chrome IMHO. More good stuff to follow.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Attached Images Attached Images The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09926-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09933-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09931-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09935-jpg 
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #58

  13. ERA Chas's Avatar Active Member
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    Chas
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    Excellent work and a beautiful result. The TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience logo is very tastefully done.
    Great job Hot The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience !
    Chas
    QUOTE QUOTE #59

  14. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Way to go Jeff....
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #60

  15. Deuces-wild's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Guido
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    Perfect!
    Be nice or else ~1~**
    QUOTE QUOTE #61

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