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    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) hot ford coupe is offline
      Builder Last Online: Mar 2021 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 04-17-09 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Here’s the thread I hope you’ve all been waiting for. I’ve had a good chance to evaluate the TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 and I’ll be documenting the build and super-detailing for the new TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 engine. Hopefully, this will serve as an instruction manual and a tutorial.

      [B][U]The Evaluation[/U][/B]
      First things first. Over all, I found this kit to be quite an excellent kit but it’s not for the rank beginner. I think at this point, the kit is ideal for the intermediate builder who has had some experience and success with aftermarket resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience engines whether in large or small scale. With a minimum of instruction, though, which what this manual should provide, anyone should be able to handle the build with a minimum of problems and challenges.
      The biggest concern is the roughness of the surfaces. It wasn’t a major thing for the block since there you’ll want a sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience cast finish but on some of the smooth parts, especially the thin ones, you’ll need to proceed with care. Still, the roughness should not be considered a deal breaker when you’re thinking of buying one of these beauties.
      Speaking of the thin parts, they can break very easily if you handle them roughly. When you sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience them, go a bit slower. There’s no real rush and the result will be well worth the effort.
      The next concern is the fit of the parts. I was really happy to see these parts fit together so well. Even with some of the roughness on the mating surfaces, the parts went together extremely well. The fit reminded me of how a really great injection molded kit goes together. I don’t even feel you’ll need to worry much about adding filler.
      A third concern is the accuracy. To be totally honest, I’m not all that familiar with the correct measurements of the real thing but considering the folks who put the time and effort into this venture, I wouldn’t worry about accuracy. I’m sure that has all been addressed.
      Another great thing is that you can build this kit the way you want. There are plenty of options available. All you’ll need is a little planning.
      When all is said and done, I think this kit is a huge winner. IMHO, it’s better than a resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience kit. The parts are light, accurate, well made and extremely consistent in thickness unlike resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience castings. There’s absolutely no part shrinkage or warping. You will definitely need to put a little effort into the preparation, but no one ever said if you put the parts in a bag with some glue and paint and shake, a completed model will fall out. TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience , you done great. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.


      The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
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  1. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    This is an update from my last post on the engine block. With Tim's help and input on a few other threads, I've been experimenting with a few different materials and the way I've found most successfull is to spray two or three coats of ModelMaster Primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience , first in a mist coat followed by two wet coats. I let the primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience coats dry for a week and then sprayed down a mist coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 followed by one or two coats more of the Mr Surfacer. In order for the coats to go on smooth, you need to shoot with the spray pattern directly perpendicular to the surface to be covered, otherwise you get a ton of defects and bubbles on the surface. I'm going to let the Mr Surfacer dry for a few days and then I'm going to smooth and polish the surfaces. the result should be exactly what we're looking for. I'm sure those of you who have been playing with the TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience stuff have already discovered this.

    I also did a little experimenting with the Duplicolor chrome paint. It's just under 3 weeks since I sprayed the last coat of the chrome and the surface is hard and dry. I then decided today to try and polish the paint with my polishing pads. The surface of the paint came out very smooth and shimy but not like chrome. I then took my SNJ powder and rubbed it into the surface well with a soft cloth and lo and behold, I got a very good looking polished aluminum almost shiny chrome surface. The more you polish with the SNJ, the better it looked. I'm going to spray the other cover exactly the same way. this procedure totally eliminates the very light orange peeling you get when the chrome paint dries. It'll take some time to get this finished but the result will be well worth the time.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #32

  2. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    I am old and dense so forgive me when I ask at what stages you sanded and by how much, i.e. - just between the primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and Mr. Surfacer or only at the end or lightly each step?
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #33

  3. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Sorry Syd. I forgot to give you the sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience order. I did 2-3 coats of MM primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience first. I didn't want to use the Tamiya The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience gray because it's too thin. Then I threw the Mr Surfacer coats on and then I sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . I go down from 220 to 320 to 400 to 600-800 grit sandsticks and then the Tamiya The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience thin primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience goes over that to check for the smoothness. If it looks right, the final color goes over that. For the cast aluminum parts, I leave a little roughness, use the Model Master's buffing metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and then buff that over with some SNJ pwoder. In the case of the very smooth metal parts that can be easily sanded like the valve covers, I sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience them down, and spray the Duplicolor chrome and let it try for a couple of weeks. Then I polish- sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience them and then rub them down with the SNJ powder. That's it. Hope that helps.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #34

  4. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Here's another update on the TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 I'm doing. I realize that Syd is way ahead of me on this one but I must admit that I'm working on two big things at the same time. I'm working on that Cord because it's going with me when I go to the SMC Invitational in Sept and I want to make sure that's up to speed for the show. I'm also working at the same time on the 426. What I've done so far was to repair the damage I've done to the engraved head and solved the chrome problem. I'm not using the Duplicolor chrome but I'm using the aluminum buffing Modelmaster metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience instead. The metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience left alone for a few days and polished like we would normally polish a painted surface and rubbed with the SNJ powder is the best solution. The piece looks just like real metal. I've alos had a little problem with sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience the Mr Surfacer. It's gummed up all of my good sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience sticks which do not do well with wet sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . It's coming along but is a long process especially with me doing the cord at the same time. The result however looks very good. the tutorial will come after I've gotten a bit further along. Please remember, I'm giving the Cord a bit more priority because I really want to show off what SMC is all about to the crowd at this car show. AndyM will be bringing the Satin Doll and I don't know who else might be bringing whatever. We have to look good.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #35

  5. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Don
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    Okay Jeff, when you go to the cookie jar this week (just this once) take two. Keep in mind.....Syd is eager to see what you have acquired over the years and added to your bag of tricks and tips.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #36

  6. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    When he sees what I've been able to do with the metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience , he'll wet himself. Heck, when I saw what I could do with the metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience I wet myself. The Duplicolor was not completely a failure but the Modelmaster stuff is way easier.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #37

  7. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I'm still spraying a few more coats of aluminum onto the valve covers so I can't polish them up just yet. Since I have my photo table back from my son-in -law who's moving out in a couple of days, I took a few shots of one of the Cord's bullet headlights. The valve covers will get the same treatment in about a weeks time. I have to let the metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience cure The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience well before I sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience it. The first picture makes the surface look very cloudy and dull. That's basically an artifact. The second picture shows the actual shine on the surface.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Attached Images Attached Images The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09867-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09871-jpg 
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #38

  8. troppo's Avatar Established Member
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    Thats a great finish, what sort of paint did you use and what was your polishing technique?
    QUOTE QUOTE #39

  9. Deuces-wild's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Guido
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    WoW! Nice finish Jeff. I can actually see you taking the picture.
    Be nice or else ~1~**
    QUOTE QUOTE #40

  10. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Thanks guys. The paint is Model Masters buffing stainless steel lacquer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience over gray primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and the polishing technique is exactly the same as how you polish the paint on a car body. I'm preparing the tutorial as we speak including the pictures of the paint cans, the SNJ metal polish and the sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience pads that you'll need. You can do this technique with any one of the Model Masters buffing metalizers. You'll just get different shades of metal which is a huge advantage in making your final model as realistic as possible.

    Stay tuned for this in the next few days. I have to wait a minimum of 3 more days before I can start to polish the paint on the tutorial subject. The surface is still a bit too soft to start sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience today. You'll see how I polish one of the TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience valve covers from start to finish. Thank Goodness I'm not using enamel The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience paint. You couldn't polish that stuff for at least 3-4 weeks after it dries.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #41

  11. troppo's Avatar Established Member
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    I`ll be waiting with baited breath mate
    QUOTE QUOTE #42

  12. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Not too much bait, troppo. The hook is very bad for the gums.

    Here's something I did with the alternator. This model is big enough for something like this to add a bit more realism to the mix. Photo 1 shows the alternator cut in half. The next photos (2&3) show the inside hollowed out and the slots cut with small burs and widened and shaped with needle files. The corners of the slots were sharpened up using a jeweler's saw blade like a file without the frame. When it's put back together, a piece of styrene The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience wrapped with 30 g. copper wire will be included and should look like it's supposed to.

    The next photo show the first steps in polishing the valve covers. The cover on the right shows the raw cover dried about 12 hours. There are about 8 coats of Model Master's aluminum plate on each cover. The left cover has been rubbed with a soft cloth to the shine shown. The surface of the paint is soft and the rubbing compresses the paint and metal particles down onto the surface. I rubbed vigorously but too much pressure will cause the paint to peel off. don't be in a hurry so you don't scar up the cover. The next few steps will be completed in about 3 days so the paint can harden more to stand the sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and polishing process. More to follow.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Last edited by hot ford coupe; 07-22-09 at 11:23 AM.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #43

  13. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Ooops. Forgot the pictures.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Attached Images Attached Images The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09881-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09885-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09886-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09891-jpg 
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #44

  14. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Don
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    Alrighty then, looks like Jeff is getting ready to strut his stuff.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #45

  15. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    It just takes a lot of preparation to get this stuff to work like I want it to. The RP The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience material is like carving and smoothing a big sugar cube and it takes a bit of work to get it smooth. I tried to use a bunch of Mr Surfacer but when I tried to sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience it out, it got gummy and immediately clogged my sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience sticks which don't sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience well with water. I tried a bunch of coats of Model Master's gray primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience which is a bit higher building than the Tamiya The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience but it takes a long time to get all the coats on and let it harden enough so it also doesn't get gummy during sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . To build one of these engines, it takes a lot of patience.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #46

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