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    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) hot ford coupe is offline
      Builder Last Online: Mar 2021 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 04-17-09 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Here’s the thread I hope you’ve all been waiting for. I’ve had a good chance to evaluate the TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 and I’ll be documenting the build and super-detailing for the new TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 engine. Hopefully, this will serve as an instruction manual and a tutorial.

      [B][U]The Evaluation[/U][/B]
      First things first. Over all, I found this kit to be quite an excellent kit but it’s not for the rank beginner. I think at this point, the kit is ideal for the intermediate builder who has had some experience and success with aftermarket resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience engines whether in large or small scale. With a minimum of instruction, though, which what this manual should provide, anyone should be able to handle the build with a minimum of problems and challenges.
      The biggest concern is the roughness of the surfaces. It wasn’t a major thing for the block since there you’ll want a sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience cast finish but on some of the smooth parts, especially the thin ones, you’ll need to proceed with care. Still, the roughness should not be considered a deal breaker when you’re thinking of buying one of these beauties.
      Speaking of the thin parts, they can break very easily if you handle them roughly. When you sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience them, go a bit slower. There’s no real rush and the result will be well worth the effort.
      The next concern is the fit of the parts. I was really happy to see these parts fit together so well. Even with some of the roughness on the mating surfaces, the parts went together extremely well. The fit reminded me of how a really great injection molded kit goes together. I don’t even feel you’ll need to worry much about adding filler.
      A third concern is the accuracy. To be totally honest, I’m not all that familiar with the correct measurements of the real thing but considering the folks who put the time and effort into this venture, I wouldn’t worry about accuracy. I’m sure that has all been addressed.
      Another great thing is that you can build this kit the way you want. There are plenty of options available. All you’ll need is a little planning.
      When all is said and done, I think this kit is a huge winner. IMHO, it’s better than a resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience kit. The parts are light, accurate, well made and extremely consistent in thickness unlike resin The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience castings. There’s absolutely no part shrinkage or warping. You will definitely need to put a little effort into the preparation, but no one ever said if you put the parts in a bag with some glue and paint and shake, a completed model will fall out. TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience , you done great. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.


      The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
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  1. sydeem's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Sydney
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    Is there a blow up of the CAD display on the site someplace that I missed? Or a breakdown of parts?

    Sorry - I just found the history in the 426 Elephant thread.
    Last edited by sydeem; 05-27-09 at 10:18 PM.
    Syd
    QUOTE QUOTE #17

  2. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I just wanted to update everyone on the superdetailed TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426. There's nothing really earth shaking to show but the heads and the block are in paint, a nice Model Master Hemi Orange lacquer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . The build will go a bit slowly because of the amount of sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience I need to do to made some of the parts machine smooth so they'll look right. I found a can of Duplicolor Chrome paint and tested it on some scrap. It seems to work fairly well and looks like polished aluminum when dry, but I need to do some experimenting to see if I can get a higher, more chrome like shine on it. I'm saving that for the valve covers.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #18

  3. Rick's Avatar Member
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    Jeff

    Try applying the Duplicolour over a coat of gloss black. It gives a bit of depth to the chrome.
    QUOTE QUOTE #19

  4. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Uh oh. Too late, Rick. I applied it over a very smooth dark grey primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and then I blew hot The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience air on it from a heater and let it set. Now when I know it's very dry, I'm going to try and polish the paint and see if I can bring the shine higher. If not, that's o.k. too since right now it looks like polished aluminum. I also cut TDR The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience 426 into one of them and SMC into the other. Everyone will know where it came from.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #20

  5. Old Busted Hotness's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Stu
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    I've also seen the valve covers painted with black wrinkle-finish paint. You probably wouldn't even have to sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience them to get this effect
    This don't look like no expressway to me! - Jake Blues
    QUOTE QUOTE #21

  6. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Don
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    You're right O.B. the black wrinkle is what the factory used on production cars. Both are period correct as there were stamped steel chrome and cast aluminum covers available in the '60s.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #22

  7. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Busted Hotness View Post
    I've also seen the valve covers painted with black wrinkle-finish paint. You probably wouldn't even have to sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience them to get this effect

    You're right OBH. I just wanted to give the final product a little sparkle with some shiny covers. Besides I was in the middle of trying to find the best chrome look for our purposes. Since we've touched on that, I might as well share what I've found so far.

    I used Duplicolor chrome on the valve cover over a polished dark grey primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . I also did this over some scrap parts so I didn't ruin the valve cover. After I had the piece covered with the chrome, I used a wetter coat so I'd have a self leveling surface avoiding the dreaded orange peel The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . When the duplicolor dries for 12 hours, it's surface is slightly pebbly but the chrome effect is still there. I tried to sand The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience the surface with a 4000 grit polishing pad and noticed that it destroys the paint immediately. It can't be polished and retain the chrome effect. The surface is also a bit on the fragile side. I was easily able to distort the smooth surface with light finger pressure or touching the surface with a cloth. I assumed then that the surface wasn't fully cured underneath the surface yet. It may need a lot more drying time so the piece can be handled without a problem. Then I tried some Duplicolor clear over the chrome. It has the same effect as using the metallic The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience sealer that goes over the Model Master metalizers. P';,[pThe Duplicolor clear is so hot The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience that it dissolves the surface of the chrome at the 12 hour point. It's also a no go. The only thing I haven't tried yet which I'll probably do tonight is get a coat of Future onto the surface and see if that solves the fragility problem.

    In short, so far the best chrome technique we have is still the Alclad The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience II. I'll keep trying to find some other alternatives and then show some pics. ;';;';


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #23

  8. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    Don
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    Jeff, I've twisted the Duplicolor Chrome paint 15 ways from Tue. even going as far as to airbrush The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience floor wax on them. Everything I tried (while giving good aluminum results) dulled the sparkle. Best I could manage is to spray them as you said with a heavy coat last....they look pretty good but I let mine set undisturbed for two weeks. You can't handle them with losing a bit of the glitter so they are best intalled last. It's a good product but "Chrome"? You are right..Alcad is still at the top of the heap.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #24

  9. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Thanks for the input, Don. I thought I wasn't handling the material correctly but if you had the same problem, then it's the material that is not suitable. I'm thinking about stripping the Duplicolor off it and using a different metalizer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience or just painting the heads black. If I were displaying the model for myself, it wouldn't matter but if the engine will serve as a prize, then there's too much potential for damage especially during shipping. If this stuff works like I think, then it should come right off. This thing has got to be done right or else it's no prize.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #25

  10. Deuces-wild's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Guido
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    Hey guys. I've been trying another chrome paint on one of my spare T steelies.. Like Jeff said It's a pebbly finish but the shine is there.. Next I'm going to transfer this paint into a jar and thin it down a bit an' shoot it with an air brush... The paint is Rust-oleum chrome # 7718 in a 11 oz can.
    Be nice or else ~1~**
    QUOTE QUOTE #26

  11. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I tried the Rustoleum. It didn't look bad at all. It reminded me of a really clean cast aluminum part. I haven't tried polishing it yet. I'll give that a shot tomorrow.

    BTW when I went to see how bad the Duplicolor Chrome was on the valve cover, it seemed like it was hard enough to handle after 24 hours. One weird thing was that the part felt cold like the thing was covered in real metal. The metal particles were packed really dense. I rubbed it with a dry tissue and nothing happened. I'm going to leave it a few more days and see how it does before I shoot the other cover. In either case, installing them at the end will be the way to go. If I protect them right when I do ship it, there should be no problem. The research goes on.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #27

  12. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I went and took some pics of the block and heads together. Hopefully I didn't put them on backwards. The pictures are of the front back and side of the assembly. I also decided to take a shot of the valve cover. I decided not to strip it but keep it. It really doesn't look too bad here. In person, it looks not like a chromed surface but a polished aluminum surface. That's the best I'm going to get out of the Duplicolor Chrome.

    Also, in the first picture, you'll notice that the outlined section is missing. I put too much pressure on that surface and it snapped off. The good thing is that I didn't need it as a gluing The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience surface. I used CA here.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Attached Images Attached Images The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09859-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09860-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09861-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09865-jpg  The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience-dsc09866-jpg 
    Last edited by hot ford coupe; 06-10-09 at 12:04 AM.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #28

  13. Daytonatim's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    It looks like you got the heads on correctly to me HFC.

    On the subject of the part that snapped off, did it still have the internal X-brace intact, inside the engine when it snapped off or had you removed it? I am just wondering because if it was still in place when the part broke, maybe I should bo back and add additional bracing so future builders wont have the same problem.

    The finish on the valve covers look great. In the second picture you can see how well it reflects the material it is setting on.
    Beware the lollipop of mediocrity, lick it once and you will suck forever.....!!!
    QUOTE QUOTE #29

  14. keramh's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Marek
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    hello,

    on the covers I do not find the engraving personally so successfully, unfortunate.
    The block looks very good.

    [B]www.scale16.de.vu[/B]
    the modelkit databank for the scale 1/16
    QUOTE QUOTE #30

  15. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Quote Originally Posted by keramh View Post
    hello,

    on the covers I do not find the engraving personally so successfully, unfortunate.
    The block looks very good.

    Marek, you'r absolutely right about the head engraving. I don't like it at all myself. I filled it in and I'll try to make the letters smaller using a different font altogether. I kind of felt it got away from me while I was carving the lettering. The logo just seemed to get bigger and bigger. This time, I will do it in raised lettering. That way if I boo boo again, I can cut off the letters and start all over again.

    As a quick update, I have been using Tim's technique that he used on the D Jag with guide coats and layers of primer The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience and a lot less sanding The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience . In the next day or so, I'll have the parts sanded, painted and on the block. More pics to come.


    The TDR 426- The Eval, Build and Superdetailing Experience
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #31

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