
Builder Last Online: Aug 2013


Model Scale: 1/8
Rating:
Thanks: 0

Started: 04-10-09
Build Revisions: Never

Well, I figured it was about time I super sized my model building projects. Having limited space to display any models, I have always leaned toward 1/12th scale. But since I have a 1/8th scale
TDR
engine stand sitting finished with nothing mounted to it I figured I would buildup something to put on it. So, I figured I would do a
TDR
Offy.
I always had a lot of admiration for this engine. It is really hard to believe that they were building hemispherical head, 4 valve per cylinder, dual over head cam engines back in the 1930's. I guess that is why this engine had a 50 year run, holding its own, on the fastest race tracks in America.
This thread may also serve as an assembly guide for anyone building up one of these little gems too.
So, I figured I would start on the cylinder bank and block since everything hangs on these two components.
Block: The block went together easy enough. Since the joining seam is covered by other components on the engine I did not worry about filling it. The only place it may peak through is at the back of the block right where the cylinder bank mounts to the block. There may be about 1/32" sticking out from the cylinder bank so I did not worry about it.
Cylinder bank: This went together easy enough, just like the block. The only difference being that the seam running down the middle of the head is quite prominent and a bear to fill in because there are 6 water jacket outlet ports located on both sides of the seam. These jackets made it pretty tough to sand
away the
epoxy
and superglue that I used to fill the crack. So, I took this to heart and the next day I fired up the ole computer and modified the the
TDR
Offy file. Now when you order the
TDR
Offy you will receive the kit with a onepiece cylinder bank and a one piece block. So now there there will be no seams at all to work on, on these two parts.
Now, as far as surface finishing goes, I started out using a brass wire cupbrush in my dremel
tool but found that it left a black residue on the parts. I did not know if this would be a problem, so I switched to a carbon steel cupbrush and it worked just fine. I am using my cordless
dremel
tool so I can turn the speed waaaayyyyy down. That way the part does not go flying out of my hand and I don't hook any edges and accidently grind them off.
Also, I found that using a green Scotch-Brite pad worked real good getting around those details. I found it to be good for removing some of the "sand cast" finish of the raw parts and for smoothing up the primer
paint I used too.
I did not want to make the engine block glass smooth. I wanted it to have a little spotty roughness to it, especially in the crevices. I am going to try to do a dark wash on it as it nears completion and I figured the crevices would help grab the wash and add to the detail in these areas. We will see.
I have never done a wash before, so if anyone has any helpfull hints or tricks please speak up.
Oh, also, I found that the rapid prototyping
material, that
TDR
uses to construct these models, behaves just like
resin
. It sands and feels very much like the
resin
part I have worked with in the past. Truethfully, once you smooth up the surfaces, you would be hard pressed to tell it from
resin
. Oh, and I did not bother soaking the parts in Wesley's Blech White for parting compound removal. There is no parting compound on these parts. I just wiped them down with
mineral spirits
before painting and I have had no problems thus far.
Well enough of the talk, here are some pics of the block and cylinder head.


I always had a lot of admiration for this engine. It is really hard to believe that they were building hemispherical head, 4 valve per cylinder, dual over head cam engines back in the 1930's. I guess that is why this engine had a 50 year run, holding its own, on the fastest race tracks in America.
This thread may also serve as an assembly guide for anyone building up one of these little gems too.
So, I figured I would start on the cylinder bank and block since everything hangs on these two components.
Block: The block went together easy enough. Since the joining seam is covered by other components on the engine I did not worry about filling it. The only place it may peak through is at the back of the block right where the cylinder bank mounts to the block. There may be about 1/32" sticking out from the cylinder bank so I did not worry about it.
Cylinder bank: This went together easy enough, just like the block. The only difference being that the seam running down the middle of the head is quite prominent and a bear to fill in because there are 6 water jacket outlet ports located on both sides of the seam. These jackets made it pretty tough to sand




Now, as far as surface finishing goes, I started out using a brass wire cupbrush in my dremel


Also, I found that using a green Scotch-Brite pad worked real good getting around those details. I found it to be good for removing some of the "sand cast" finish of the raw parts and for smoothing up the primer

I did not want to make the engine block glass smooth. I wanted it to have a little spotty roughness to it, especially in the crevices. I am going to try to do a dark wash on it as it nears completion and I figured the crevices would help grab the wash and add to the detail in these areas. We will see.
I have never done a wash before, so if anyone has any helpfull hints or tricks please speak up.
Oh, also, I found that the rapid prototyping






Well enough of the talk, here are some pics of the block and cylinder head.
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