Downloads
BUILD Information
- Add a Comment
The Builder
About Builder
Builder Last Online: Jun 2022
Model Scale: 1/8
Rating: 
Thanks: 0
Thanks: 0
Started: 04-07-09
Build Revisions: Never
Not Supported
This is a re write of the original build I did when my computer went kaflooey. I’ve eliminated the first thread and substituted this one with the photos. Hope this helps some of you guys to choose whether or not to build this one.
Photo #1 shows the kit box top and the original color of the kit parts. The box stock
build looks pretty good but it could use a little sparkle. Therefore this build shows how to make a good
box stock
model more unique and more superdetailed without resorting to the extreme detailism we’re familiar with. No special expensive equipment or supplies are needed that you can’t easily get at your
LHS
or the SMC parts store. There is still a lot more detailing that could be done here but in the long run, I think it would make it look overdone and much of the detail will get lost in the composition. This is a good case where less is more.
The first thing I did was to cement the block halves together. Since they're diecast, you cannot use styrene
cement and because there are only three points of attachment between the two halves, I wouldn't even use CA. Photo#2. I feel it is too unpredictable and possibly too weak for the usual block handling during the build. I would use either Locktite metal cement or JB Weld. See Photo #3. I used the Locktite metal repair which worked beautifully and filled well where it was needed. Once the block was set and stable, I decided to change the color to the more familiar stock dark green. I did see pictures of the block painted in several other colors including green, blue and red but the green seemed to be the most common. I used Krylon Hunter Green over Krylon
primer
and treated the surface with a bit of texture to simulate the
sand
casting
. After the paint was dry, I simply held the rattlecan about 2-3 feet away from the part to get the
orange peel
effect. Photo #4 shows the final result. A most important consideration here is you need to
sand
down the block so the new paint can get a bite into the original type of paint which is I haven’t got the vaguest idea. It’s actually best to remove all the original paint throughout the build but that’s just too dang much work. Make sure you scrub the parts well before painting and use thin mist and color coats. The original finish may interact with the solvent in the Krylon if you’re too much in a rush or spray too thick. It’ll result in a lot of fisheyes. You’ll then have to strip the part and respray.
Next, the valve covers had to be dealt with. I removed the molded lug nuts and drilled them for a 1-72
, 1/4 inch long bolt. The bolts were inserted from the reverse side of the part and
1-72
nuts were lightly tightened over them. You'll have to do a little cutting on the inside of the cover to make room for the bolt heads to go all the way in but that’s not extensive. Photo#5 and 6. If you have a
1-72
die, you can tap a piece of 1/16 inch thick brass rod, tap the hole with the same diameter then you won’t have to modify the covers.
One big disadvantage of this kit is that the valve covers are done in two pieces. You have the main part and then the water port. See Photo#7. At first, I used regular styrene
cement like the instructions said after I scraped the paint off the
gluing
surfaces but it didn't stick well at all. That leads me to believe the plastic may be a lesser quality
styrene
than we're used to. I reglued them on with
epoxy
and then sanded them down before painting. The excess
epoxy
was used as the filler. Also, the two little spouts off of the main water port were incorrectly shaped. I reshaped them and drilled them out to look more realistic. I may do some "dirtying" of the bolts to make them look a bit more weathered, but that decision will be made later on. Photo#8. Here’s what the cover looks like after painting and addition of the
1-72
nuts. Photo#9.
I also started to fiddle around with the exhaust manifolds. The edges were a bit rough and there were several torn areas where someone casually ripped the parts off of their sprues. Also, the manifolds are not solid which is hard to see when they're tried on. It’s not much of a problem but if you want them closed, add a thin piece of styrene
like you would box a frame and then gently smooth the edge off. When the exhausts are repainted darker and more textured, they'll look like they should.
The intake manifold was repainted Model Master’s buffing Stainless Steel to give the model a little contrast. I used 0-80
bolt heads and cemented the manifold. Photo #10. The front of the engine could also use a few bolts as shown.
The starter and the generator will be next. I cemented the parts with the epoxy
, smoothed out seams, painted the starter flat black and the generator gloss black. The rest of the black parts are the original finish which is pretty good. I then added a few wires, one for the starter and two for the 3 for the generator. Photo #11 and #12 show how they look after cementation. The starter bolt was done by taking a long
00-90
bolt, cutting off the head, drilling a hole in the starter, threading or cementing the headless bolt, adding a thin wire and screwing down a
00-90
nut over the whole thing. The generator was done by drilling 3
00-90
holes and threading in two hex headed bolts, thin wires and a
00-90
screw in the third hole. Finally, you can drill 3 holes into the base of the model and thread the wires into the base for a nice and neat wore solution. Photo #13.
For a bit more contrast, I changed the black spark plug wires to green. You can use any color wires you want here. The last couple of pictures were taking of the finished model. The rest of the wiring and plumbing
were straight out of the kit.
Well gang, that's it for this episode of the HFC Model Improvement show.. In the mean time, have a great modeling day and don't forget to visit our sponsor, SMC, the best in quality auto parts.
Photo #1 shows the kit box top and the original color of the kit parts. The box stock
build looks pretty good but it could use a little sparkle. Therefore this build shows how to make a good
box stock
model more unique and more superdetailed without resorting to the extreme detailism we’re familiar with. No special expensive equipment or supplies are needed that you can’t easily get at your
LHS
or the SMC parts store. There is still a lot more detailing that could be done here but in the long run, I think it would make it look overdone and much of the detail will get lost in the composition. This is a good case where less is more. The first thing I did was to cement the block halves together. Since they're diecast, you cannot use styrene
cement and because there are only three points of attachment between the two halves, I wouldn't even use CA. Photo#2. I feel it is too unpredictable and possibly too weak for the usual block handling during the build. I would use either Locktite metal cement or JB Weld. See Photo #3. I used the Locktite metal repair which worked beautifully and filled well where it was needed. Once the block was set and stable, I decided to change the color to the more familiar stock dark green. I did see pictures of the block painted in several other colors including green, blue and red but the green seemed to be the most common. I used Krylon Hunter Green over Krylon
primer
and treated the surface with a bit of texture to simulate the
sand
casting
. After the paint was dry, I simply held the rattlecan about 2-3 feet away from the part to get the
orange peel
effect. Photo #4 shows the final result. A most important consideration here is you need to
sand
down the block so the new paint can get a bite into the original type of paint which is I haven’t got the vaguest idea. It’s actually best to remove all the original paint throughout the build but that’s just too dang much work. Make sure you scrub the parts well before painting and use thin mist and color coats. The original finish may interact with the solvent in the Krylon if you’re too much in a rush or spray too thick. It’ll result in a lot of fisheyes. You’ll then have to strip the part and respray. Next, the valve covers had to be dealt with. I removed the molded lug nuts and drilled them for a 1-72
, 1/4 inch long bolt. The bolts were inserted from the reverse side of the part and
1-72
nuts were lightly tightened over them. You'll have to do a little cutting on the inside of the cover to make room for the bolt heads to go all the way in but that’s not extensive. Photo#5 and 6. If you have a
1-72
die, you can tap a piece of 1/16 inch thick brass rod, tap the hole with the same diameter then you won’t have to modify the covers. One big disadvantage of this kit is that the valve covers are done in two pieces. You have the main part and then the water port. See Photo#7. At first, I used regular styrene
cement like the instructions said after I scraped the paint off the
gluing
surfaces but it didn't stick well at all. That leads me to believe the plastic may be a lesser quality
styrene
than we're used to. I reglued them on with
epoxy
and then sanded them down before painting. The excess
epoxy
was used as the filler. Also, the two little spouts off of the main water port were incorrectly shaped. I reshaped them and drilled them out to look more realistic. I may do some "dirtying" of the bolts to make them look a bit more weathered, but that decision will be made later on. Photo#8. Here’s what the cover looks like after painting and addition of the
1-72
nuts. Photo#9.I also started to fiddle around with the exhaust manifolds. The edges were a bit rough and there were several torn areas where someone casually ripped the parts off of their sprues. Also, the manifolds are not solid which is hard to see when they're tried on. It’s not much of a problem but if you want them closed, add a thin piece of styrene
like you would box a frame and then gently smooth the edge off. When the exhausts are repainted darker and more textured, they'll look like they should. The intake manifold was repainted Model Master’s buffing Stainless Steel to give the model a little contrast. I used 0-80
bolt heads and cemented the manifold. Photo #10. The front of the engine could also use a few bolts as shown. The starter and the generator will be next. I cemented the parts with the epoxy
, smoothed out seams, painted the starter flat black and the generator gloss black. The rest of the black parts are the original finish which is pretty good. I then added a few wires, one for the starter and two for the 3 for the generator. Photo #11 and #12 show how they look after cementation. The starter bolt was done by taking a long
00-90
bolt, cutting off the head, drilling a hole in the starter, threading or cementing the headless bolt, adding a thin wire and screwing down a
00-90
nut over the whole thing. The generator was done by drilling 3
00-90
holes and threading in two hex headed bolts, thin wires and a
00-90
screw in the third hole. Finally, you can drill 3 holes into the base of the model and thread the wires into the base for a nice and neat wore solution. Photo #13.For a bit more contrast, I changed the black spark plug wires to green. You can use any color wires you want here. The last couple of pictures were taking of the finished model. The rest of the wiring and plumbing
were straight out of the kit. Well gang, that's it for this episode of the HFC Model Improvement show.. In the mean time, have a great modeling day and don't forget to visit our sponsor, SMC, the best in quality auto parts.
Build Photos
Show Complete First Post
Show Your Support
- This build may not be copied, reproduced or published elsewhere without author's permission.Please note: The first post will be displayed at the top of every page.
QUOTE 
Bookmarks