Article: Re: Edmunds Offy Midget

[kmeaders@q.com]

Does this help? Hash marks are in 1/8" increments. This is not the same motor that TDR innovations makes. This is a completely different and smaller engine, only 110cu.in., about 175 HP for midget racing.

[sydeem]

That makes a great drawing super.

[kmeaders@q.com]

I started the Offenhauser motor, today. The case is made from .80 styrene sheet, cut to fit the plan, I've drawn. Both section together and ready to build the cam covers. I made a buck to bend the .018 aluminum and put a styrene bottom to attach to the case. Drill the bolt holes and make a top for the spark plugs. The holes to the side of the plugs is for the radiator line and a oil line in the rear. The aluminum rod is the crankshaft center.

[sydeem]

I'm watching and learning. This will be a great thread!

[kmeaders@q.com]

I think it will be fun, Syd. I would love it if I was actually able to show somebody something that they hadn't tried before. We still need to think about who's car this is going to be. I want it to be from 1960 to 1965. Billy Vukovich Jr, Iron Mike McGreevy, Parnelli Jones, AJ and a bunch of others. It should be a USAC midget as well. Ken

[kmeaders@q.com]

Making the front cam cover, mag bracket and water and oil pump. I cut out 4 patterns of the .80 styrene and one.40 and glued them together to make the front cover. Lots of bolts so I used brads, cut to length, to give the illusion. It is a huge help to have a picture of the real thing, while you're building the part. Sorry I've got the pictures out of order. The first one is the start of the cooling supply line, that is a distinctive part of the Offenhouser. Ken

[kmeaders@q.com]

I know this is a little off topic, but I was cleaning and changing my workroom around and decided I would share some of the race car stuff I've collected over the years. Ken

[semijoe]

man shes a beauty

[kmeaders@q.com]

I am building the side covers. Made with .80 styrene . Laid out all the bolt holes and cooling fines before cutting out the plates. The fins are strips of styrene you can get from the hobby. I used brass acorn nuts for the cam cover and I'm going to leave them that color. I also got the plans today, thank you Don. They're in 1/8 scale so it couldn't get much easier. First thing I did was grab the motor and lay it on the plans to make sure it fit. It did perfectly. That was a big leap of faith to build that first, without the chassis plan, I thought. Ken

[joep]

Ken, Are the two #1printers in the center picture built up from GMP kits? They look really nice ( as does the rest of yout collection ) I've got the sides of the Grant King frame completed and will start putting in the cross members tomorrow.

[kmeaders@q.com]

Joe, all of those except the Troy Ruttman Indy car are GMP, but I bought them assembled. Way before I got into model building. The Ruttman car is a Franklin Mint collection car. The liquor decanters are empty from years ago, darn it! The two sprinters are from the Sprint Car Hall Of Fame just different years. I try to support them when I can. I've got four more but more modern style like Steve Kinser, Brad Doty, etc. I'm going to start on that midget frame tomorrow and please post some pictures of your frame. Building that stuff is the most fun for me. Ken

[joep]

Ken, I finally figured out how to upload some photos to my gallery so check them out when you get time. You can see that my approach is to upscale from the 1:25 kit frame so I hope it is fairly accurate! Nice thing about this approach over flat plans it gives you a feel of spacial orientation (I think that would be the correct way to describe it)

[kmeaders@q.com]

Building the mag and injectors yesterday. Both out of styrene tube and sheet. Intake and exhaust layout the same again laying out the bolt holes on each before installing anything. The mag is just styrene made into a box and add the different shapes. I used small black tubing, small aluminum tubing and a brass nut for the fuel lines to the nozzles. The air horns are styrene tube painted black attached to aluminum tubing that has been flared with a brake line tool. The oil intake and outlet (shown at the bottom left hand picture, next to the injectors) is made with tubing and styrene as well. Joe; that frame is turning out cool. I especially like the shot next to the 1/25 scale. I want to start thiss midget frame so bad but I know I need to finish the motor first. I might be able to show you some " Old Indian Tricks" in frame building that will make life easier (or not). Do you measure the small car and make the big one threee times bigger?

[kmeaders@q.com]

First thing is to draw the frame out, even though I've got a plan of the basic frame. It helps me get familiar with the angles and attachment points as well as add in missing things like seat supports, radius rod spuds, radiator supports, etc. I have shown those in red for clarification. if you don't put all that stuff in while building the frame you'll have a big sad face at the end when your putting everything together and trying to attach stuff to a painted unit. Scare tissue is the best teacher, huh? I will now build the frame on this paper using a square for the vertical sides during assembly. Sorry about the really bad photography. Ken

[joep]

Yep, measure the small frame and expand the dimensions by 3x. I put in the bottom crossmembers this PM and will start on the dash support struts tomorrow. I'll need spuds for the radius rods and a front spring perch , seat back support framing , spuds for a roll bar, shock mounts etc.. Will this suspension support the frame or should all the components be glued solid? I'll put torsion bar stops on the rods and try and build the front spring so it supports the car at the correct ride height. Do I do the motor next or suspension?