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Builder Last Online: Jun 2022
Model Scale: 1/8
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Started: 10-29-07
Build Revisions: Never
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The first thing that I've done so far is to get as many measurements of the v12 as I could using a combination of a 1/24 scale v12 flathead from Monogram and the 1/8 RM fFord v8 flathead. The two engines are very similar. When I compared some of the measurements, the final 1/6 scale measurements were only a couple of millimeters off. In the final analysis, any inaccuracy would be insignificant and undetectable. Since I don't have access to a
1:1
Lincoln, I'm somewhat limited. An example of one of my drawings is below. I plan to cut out the shape, put it on the plastic, trace around it and cut on the lines. Another way to do this is to print a copy of the drawing on sticky label paper, stick it to a plastic sheet and start to cut the outline.
I also feel I need to re-explain some of my methods to better answer a few questions. First, like I mentioned before, I'm using a 39 Lincoln die cast model which is pretty well made. If I follow the model which looks quite right, the final model, although some of the measurements may be off from the original 1:1
car , still should look right.
Second, I'd like to explain how I'll be making the buck for the body parts. In my former career, I used a lot of reproduction techniques and materials that can be very easily adapted to car modeling. The biggest difference is the size of the model compared to the size of teeth. When we made temporary bridges, we used dental stone castings of the patients' mouths as a buck. For this buck, I'll also be using the same dental stone but over an understructure of some styrofoam and wire. If I used only the stone without the understructure, the thing would weigh about 50 to 75 lbs.
The dental stone is mixed with water much like plaster but thicker so it wouldn't drip and handle more like clay. It would be applied over the styrofoam and shaped with wet hands until the shape is close by eye. The mix will harden in about 20 to 30 minutes. The body would be constructed in parts which can be separated from one another much like Gerald Wingrove does with his wooden bucks. The parts are then shaped to the correct proportions according to the blueprint drawings minus a couple of millimeters to make up for the thickness of the plastic that will be molded over it. I don't want the model to come out bigger than it's supposed to. Next, a layer of non hardening modeling clay about 1/2 to 1 inch is blanketed over let's say a fender, removed and put aside. A sheet of plastic would be heated and then put over the stone fender, reheated to soften it well (I'll have to make sure I don't heat it too much) and pushed into place with the clay until the part sits on the buck all the way. The plastic is trimmed, sanded to contour and placed aside so another part can be made. The panels will then be carefully adjusted and the body assembled either with glue or by plastic heat welding over the buck. The final
sanding
is done and then all the body detail is made from there. I hope this explains the process a bit more than I did in a previous post. Don't worry, I'll be documenting the steps so you'll be able to copy the technique if you want.
Lincoln, I'm somewhat limited. An example of one of my drawings is below. I plan to cut out the shape, put it on the plastic, trace around it and cut on the lines. Another way to do this is to print a copy of the drawing on sticky label paper, stick it to a plastic sheet and start to cut the outline. I also feel I need to re-explain some of my methods to better answer a few questions. First, like I mentioned before, I'm using a 39 Lincoln die cast model which is pretty well made. If I follow the model which looks quite right, the final model, although some of the measurements may be off from the original 1:1
car , still should look right. Second, I'd like to explain how I'll be making the buck for the body parts. In my former career, I used a lot of reproduction techniques and materials that can be very easily adapted to car modeling. The biggest difference is the size of the model compared to the size of teeth. When we made temporary bridges, we used dental stone castings of the patients' mouths as a buck. For this buck, I'll also be using the same dental stone but over an understructure of some styrofoam and wire. If I used only the stone without the understructure, the thing would weigh about 50 to 75 lbs.
The dental stone is mixed with water much like plaster but thicker so it wouldn't drip and handle more like clay. It would be applied over the styrofoam and shaped with wet hands until the shape is close by eye. The mix will harden in about 20 to 30 minutes. The body would be constructed in parts which can be separated from one another much like Gerald Wingrove does with his wooden bucks. The parts are then shaped to the correct proportions according to the blueprint drawings minus a couple of millimeters to make up for the thickness of the plastic that will be molded over it. I don't want the model to come out bigger than it's supposed to. Next, a layer of non hardening modeling clay about 1/2 to 1 inch is blanketed over let's say a fender, removed and put aside. A sheet of plastic would be heated and then put over the stone fender, reheated to soften it well (I'll have to make sure I don't heat it too much) and pushed into place with the clay until the part sits on the buck all the way. The plastic is trimmed, sanded to contour and placed aside so another part can be made. The panels will then be carefully adjusted and the body assembled either with glue or by plastic heat welding over the buck. The final
sanding
is done and then all the body detail is made from there. I hope this explains the process a bit more than I did in a previous post. Don't worry, I'll be documenting the steps so you'll be able to copy the technique if you want.Build Photos
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