Building & Evaluating the TDR 6.1 Liter Hemi

[Rick]

As I mentioned in my previous post, TDR products are extreemly well packaged. However, care must be taken when unwrapping the bubble wrap. I strongly suggest the use of an exacto knife or razor blade to cut the scotch tape and then carefully roll open the bubble rap and remove the part(s). If one was to cut open the bubble wrap you risk breaking the part.

This kit is comprised of 22 pieces. The Rapid Prototype process produces an amazing product that appears 100% accurate and to scale. The surface is a bit rough but we will deal with that later.

One thing jumped out immediatly and thats the headers. WOW WOW WOW!! While they are incorrect for this engine, they are a model builders dream and I wonder why TDR does not offer them with all their engine kits. Having said that, TDR should also include a set of stock headers to keep the purists happy, especially if this engine ever ends up in that elusive Cuda we keep hearing about.

[Rick]

A quick comment about those beautiful headers........I've test fitted them to the TDR 392 and also to their big block Chev. While they are not a perfect fit, they are easily adaptable to both engines. If I can find my small block, I'll do another test fit.

Listen up TDR , you've got to make these optional headers available for all your engines.

[Rick]

I'm so excited about the headers in this kit that I couldn't resist preping them. After drilling the flange bolt holes I sanded them with 180 and a small file. That was followed by a coat of high build primer and they are now ready for wet sanding prior to final paint or chrome.

A word of caution when drilling the flange bolt holes.......the material is paper thin so go slowly and don't push too hard on the drill.

[Don Garrett]

Well now, I get the feeling you like the headers, huh?
I doubt we (TDR) will do "stock" headers as they are clunky and wouldn't fit most applications anyway...including the '71 Cuda. The headers (block hugger style) that come with the SRT will work with a wide variety of builds including full fendered rods. What TDR has done is to provide a modern engine for those that want something a little different from the nostalgia norm.

Below is a pic of a "crate" 6.1 so that the rest of the guys can see what you are dealing with.......now bear in mind this is a 'puter controlled fuel injected engine and as far as I know no one has stuffed one in a 1/8th model yet so you will be breaking new ground with your woodie build. The ball is in your court and you are going to have to do some scratch building, problem solving etc.
Show us what you can do now that you have chunks to work with.





Of course if you're feeling lazy you could always cover the whole thing with a piece of plastic like the factory does and call it sound deadening.......LOL.

[Rick]

Its time to start smoothing some of the larger pieces of this engine kit.

Starting with the oil pan, I first drilled out the bolt holes. In retrospect, I probably should have waited until I'd finished sanding the pan as the holes weaken the lip around the pan and if one were not carefull, the lip could be damaged. Live and learn.

Like all TDR products, this piece is incredibly well detailed but the RP process creates a rough layered finish amongst lots of little braces and small confined spaces that are difficult to sand smooth. Ordinarily, these area's could be reached with a sanding cone on the end of a Dreimel, but thats cheating and could drive Don to trying one of those designer coffee's. So, whether you're a novice or an experienced modeller, hand sanding , wrapping sandpaper around a toothpick or a round wooden dowl is the way to take care of the rough spots on these parts.

Sanding this oil pan smooth took about two hours, primarily due to all the little confined spaces. After shooting the pan with some high build primer I found a couple more rough spots that needed further sanding but the pan is now ready for wet sanding an paint. For the time being, this is how it will remain until I get everything smoothed and make a decision as to which way this build is going to go.

A word of caution. I recommend the use of surgical gloves and eye, nose and throat protection. Its not that TDR products are toxic, but lets face it, we are dealing with very fine particles of dust and its a good idea to get into safe modelling habits.

[kmeaders@q.com]

That's a great tip ( I didn't know) about the toothpick and sand paper. I have not, to date, been able to get at some areas that need to be smoothed out. I have a mask, also, but it has a hole cut in it for a cigarette. LOL.

[Rick]

Here's a little more progress.

I've started to smooth the intake manifold. I found during sanding that its necessary to be VERY carefull when sanding the runners as there is not a lot of "meat" between the joins. If you sand too much of the rough surface off, you risk loosing the gap line between the runners. The fix is simple though. Use a jewelers saw to open up the gap between the runners. I have to add (again) that the detail in this and other parts of this kit is amazing.

The pictures show the before and after, but as you can see, there's still a bit of smoothing required in some hard to get at spaces.

[spinellid82]

Along with toothpicks and sandpaper, popsickle sticks or wooden stir sticks make great sanders. You have a nice flat to start with and can narrow it down to a sharp point or anywhere in between you need. Just glue on the needed grit and go for broke (Just be carefull becuase as you probably know by now, it is really easy to go