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  1. Phileas's Avatar Member
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    Peter
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    Aug 2018
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    RC4WD Beast II 6x6

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc4wd-beast-ii-jpg

    Prologue

    Reference is made to my introduction post to this forum, which I had joined a couple of months ago searching the Internet for tips and tricks in order to succeed in renovating a delapidated Pocher Mercedes 500K-AK that I had picked up at a rummage sale for peanuts some time ago.

    Besides that, as one of my main Hobbies and as described in my introduction post, I convert static car kits to well-running slot-cars, documenting every single conversion by an illustrated report.

    However, I gained the impression that this forum exclusively deals with scales larger than 1/32. So I refrain from posting anything regarding my slotcars but rather to post my report on the build of my newest project – the RC scale truck Beast II 6x6 (1/14) produced by RC4WD. My posts also serve the purpose of keeping up my English, which else would hardly be in use any longer as a consequence of having been forced into early retirement following my employer’s restructuring measures two years ago.

    So let’s go down an unconventional route and kick off this report with the figures involved in this project. Ultimately I build the Beast II 6x6 for THEM to sit in, drive and have some fun too!

    I absolutely wanted to avoid a dollish figure such as this example:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-0-jpg

    Searching the Web for a while revealed the following figures:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-driver-harry-jpgRC4WD Beast II 6x6-female-co-driver-jpg

    Driver and Co-Driver, Scale 1/14, realistically and very well casted in resin RC4WD Beast II 6x6 – now that’s more like it! While these 2 figures were on their way to me, I continued my research and came across some action-figures that would just as well fit into the 1/14-scale. As in the couple of online-shops I regularly buy from, these figures had been reported to be of the last ones readily available, I also snapped those up (at a bargain-price).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-5-jpg

    Size-wise they match perfectly to the 1/14 scale, however Michonne turned out to be a little «stiff around the hips» (due to the front lap of the shirt that is). So a seated position in the truck is out of question but the Beast II 6x6 has a roof hatch in the cabin – so letting her stand for observation might also be a possibility - let’s wait and see. Sasha on the other hand can easily be bent into a seated position – so lot’s of options there.

    Now let’s draw our attention to the two resin RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    figures again. The next foto shows them after a coat of Revell RC4WD Beast II 6x6 Aqua Color Basic Primer RC4WD Beast II 6x6 had been applied with my Badger 150-4 PK, an extremely reliable workhorse of an Airbrush RC4WD Beast II 6x6 that serves me for decades now. In order to avoid choking the spray-valve of the Airbrush RC4WD Beast II 6x6 , I diluted the Primer RC4WD Beast II 6x6 by one part Revell RC4WD Beast II 6x6 Aqua Color Mix to approx.
    2 ½ parts Revell RC4WD Beast II 6x6 Aqua Color Basic, which then works just fine.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-4-jpg

    After a couple of days (the primer RC4WD Beast II 6x6 would have been dry after a few hours) I started painting with Revell RC4WD Beast II 6x6 Aqua Color flesh in two different shades and added a colour basecoat to the hair.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-6-jpg

    Painting the faces was quite a challenge, as my hands are not as steady anymore as they used to be…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-11-jpgRC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-15-jpgRC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-12-arrow-jpg

    But with a single bristle of a toothbrush, clamped into a pair of tweezers, I managed to paint the tiny details such as the highlights in the eyes. At a later stage, not reflected in the middle picture, I could even improve the eyes of the female figure by carefully running a black pen along the edge of the eyelid (not without rather strong magnifying glasses in front of MY eyes of course)!

    The faces done, I continued painting the clothes – a batik-style, emerald green leather-dress and natural coloured sneakers for the lady, whereas the driver wears a workers outfit.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-figures-19-jpg

    Actually these two figures that will be driving and co-driving the Beast II 6x6 turned out quite well. Looking at them in reality his eyes by far do not look as gazing as they do on the picture (as we all know, fotos relentlessly reveal everything…).

    So finally time is up for the Beast II 6x6 itself – tataaa!

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-arrival-1-blackened-jpg

    Unboxing

    This chapter (or at least part of it) might be of rather limited interest to those having already purchased «The Beast» or alike, however for any potential, future buyer this might be useful information, supplementing what is available on the Web already. So inside the larger of the two parcels we find…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-1-jpg

    … the extremely sturdy, factory sealed (!) cardboard box, contents of which is about to be revealed, but not before an additional flap shows off the Logo quite prominently.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-2-jpg

    There’s not much to say to the following pictures, showing various stages of the unboxing, except that already by the way everything is carefully packed, the outstanding and excellent quality of this kit shines:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-3-jpg
    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-4-jpg
    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-6-jpg
    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-7-jpg


    The following picture shows all the parts, unwrapped to a recognizable state:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-8-jpg

    Starting clockwise in the top left corner with the very detailed instruction book, the impressive tyres and wheels, then we have the ABS-Parts such as the floor of the cargo area with the gearbox and some lubricant lying on top of it. More bags with ABS-Parts, from which the cabin will be built and at the bottom the massive metal chassis rails. Then we see the three axles (front, middle and rear), more plasticbags with metal parts and screws and finally the six shocks.

    Let’s now throw a closer glance at the shocks and the axles:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-10-jpgRC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-13-jpg

    Finally the next picture shows the plastic bags, accurately labelled, containing all the prefabricated assemblies such as those axles and all the other metal parts (there is no further need to show the ABS-parts again now).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-20-jpg

    But we are not quite done yet - there was a second box that had arrived:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-21-jpg

    In order to make this thing work in the end, a bunch of other items are required, which are shown in the next picture.

    Upon recommendation I had chosen the following items, hereinafter listed from top to bottom in each of the five columns on the fotograph:

    The first pair of adjustable chassis-stands (also useful for maintenance work later on)
    The Sound-Module Servonaut SM3
    Rechargeable Batteries for the radio control
    The second pair of adjustable chassis-stands
    The speaker for the Servonaut Sound System
    Tamiya ABS-Glue (which had some pretty good reviews on the Web and was used in a youtube-video showing the build of an ABS-cabin)
    Zap-A-Gap Superglue which had been recommended for this task (I’ll find out later which of the glues will be the better option)
    Cables
    Rare Earth Magnets (for detachable cabin-roof)
    Glue-Tips
    Recharbeable Battery-Pack
    Servo Y-cable
    Two Servo’s (steering and gear / waterproof)
    Brushed Electric Motor ‘Crawler Beast 60T’
    Electronic Speed Controller (waterproof)
    Radio Control Unit
    Charger

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-unboxing-22-jpg

    So this was the Unboxing as an appetizer for the things to come.

    In this post my aim is not to chew the cud in terms of the regular building work, which can easily be retraced by looking through the manual available online on the web, but rather to jump in with fotos of the individual current status, whenever anything occurs that deviates from the regular building process or which I deem appropriate to report.

    But before I end this section, please let me throw light on my plan to build «The Beast» as a fully functional Chassis/Cabin-Unit only, «the garage» equipped with a certain arsenal of spareparts for maintenance and then develop a few different, exchangeable platforms such as a «Trial-Truck», a «Festival-Music-Truck», a «Camper» so that «The Beast» will (hopefully) keep me busy for all times.

    RC-Setup (Test)

    I thought it might be a good idea to test the RC-Setup before starting the actual build. It MUST be an advantage, to exactly know which plug has to be connected to which socket in the process of installing those components during the build. So I started off connecting the items according to the diagram that came with the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC)…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-4-jpg

    … and it worked! But obviously it still looks a little bit chaotic. So it’s time to bring in some tidiness and explanations of what I did in a different way from what was suggested in the manuals. The next picture shows the components and connections more clearly:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-5-jpg

    In my opinion there are two things worth mentioning:

    A)The manuals suggest, that the electrical power supply of the Soundmodule (Servonaut SM3 – shining green) should be provided by soldering its electric lead to the electric lead of the ESC. Allthough I am used to soldering, I was just not brave enough to overcome the threat of ruining the ESC during this process. So I decided to treat the Soundmodule with its own power source by connecting a battery-holder containing 4 AA-cells – I shall revert to this still in this chapter of the report.

    B)The setup might look quite well arranged lying on the board but the components and cables mounted in the chassis could be a different story. So I looked for a durable way to mark/number the cables/plugs/sockets. Labels I had tested came off again after just a few hours. So I banded the cable-ends near the sockets and plugs with larger cable ties (or for anyone preferring another expression - wire straps), clipping off all the excess length and ending up with the knob of the cable tie close by the sockets and plugs, which could then easily be lettered with a waterproof marker.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-8-jpg

    The setup as shown on the picture before the last worked fine. From time to time I had put it to the test, enjoying the Truck-Sounds, such as Closing the Cabindoor, Starter, Horn, Engine (idling and accelerating), Gearshift, Brakes (listen via Google, tags Servonaut SM3, Soundtest). Unfortunately after a few days with only a couple of further short tests done, suddenly each time the sound fell silent after a few seconds – Hm!

    After some quick research I came to the conclusion that I was not generous enough with the seperate power I provided to the Sound-System. O.K., the Soundmodule itself does not need a lot of ‘juice’ but I underestimated the speaker with a maximum power of 10 Watts, which drains quite something. Checking the maths on this considering the voltage and capacity provided, explains and substantiates this shortfall.

    So the Sound-System has to get it’s power from the main battery and hence some electronic tinkering is required – not my favourite of jobs. From my Online Hobby Store I ordered the bits and pieces needed to knock up this additional cable.
    Waiting for these parts to arrive gives me the chance to address another important step on the way to completion of this Test-Layout.

    The RC-Setup arranged in working order is one achievement – but are all cables long enough? In the process of eventually installing the RC components I would hate to discover that required cable extensions are missing. So I took the chassis rails as a basis and drew a one-to-one plan in order to allocate the RC parts and to measure the distances between them (including an estimated tolerance for vertical spacing).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-12-jpg

    This revealed that additional cables and connectors (leading from the ESC to the motor and some three-core-cables for one of the Servo’s and the Soundmodule), as well as some switches are required.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-15-jpg

    The next picture shows the RC-Setup once again, now in it’s correct proportions.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-20-pfeil-jpg

    The cable from the ESC to the motor (black/blue – red/yellow) has been extended using appropriate, matching cables with a braid diameter (!) of approx. 3,0 mm and suitable connectors. As the «Motor-Cables» are relatively thick, the slightly cone-shaped transparent silicone insulation-tubes had to be pinched off at the narrow end where the their inner diameter was not large enough, so that they could at all be slid over the cables and connectors. Speaker and Soundmodule will be placed in the separated rear half of the cabin, so the two three-core-cables had to be extended as well, ensuring that they can be easily unplugged when the cabin has to be tilted for access to the motor. Moreover the two switches have been inserted, in order to allow the Soundmodule and the lighting to be comfortably switched on and off on the vehicle itself. We shall see, where these two switches will be placed in the end.

    There is one thing missing on this picture showing the final electronic layout: the Y-cable which I am going to create in order to connect the plug of the Soundmodule’s power supply (which the yellow arrow on the previous foto points to) to the main battery primarily powering the motor through the ESC.

    The parts have arrived, so this essential cable can be made up.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-21-jpgRC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-30-jpg

    The next picture shows the result:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-31-text-jpg

    And now the conclusive RC-Setup can be displayed and works rather well:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rc-setup-33-jpg

    Just for those wondering why I turned the battery by one-eighty, instead of leaving the considerably reduced cable length between the latter and the ESC: the Deans connectors rightly fit extremely tight, so disconnecting them could end up in quite some fiddling about if you do not have enough space and cable length to maneuver – this is at least my experience, so I opted for enough flexibility there.

    The Chassis

    First things first, some preparation work is required. The few larger plastic bags containing the metal parts, screws, nuts etc. are separated and sorted – here are just the screws, nuts and bolts, left in their carefully labelled bags clearly sorted for easy access when needed during the build – surely this is going to help.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-preparation-13-jpg

    According to the manual the build of the chassis starts off with the axles and right here I have my first remark on supplementing the process by dismantling those axles to some extent. Why? Because the pinions and gear rims could do with an extra helping of grease, and where the bolts screw into metal, a drop of medium threadlock can’t be wrong. Additionally I granted the shafts some PTFE/Teflon-Lubricant (Gear-Flon®) in order to support free movement and protect from corrosion. Starting off with the front axle...

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-axle-front-6-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-axle-front-10-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-axle-front-1-jpg

    ...the axles center rear and rear come apart differently, so that’s why I post those fotos as well. Next the center rear axle…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-axle-center-rear-2-jpg

    … and last but not least we have the rear axle.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-axle-rear-1-jpg

    Yes, the rear axle – but hold it…

    …after having reassembled the rear axle EXACTLY THE WAY IT HAD BEEN BEFORE (to be on the safe side, I did some fotos while taking it apart) I compared it with the drawing in the manual (Assembly Steps 47 and 48) and stopped short: the axle in front of me did not look the same as the one drawn in the manual at this stage.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-47_48-4-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-47_48-2-jpg

    Please note that I am far from blaming anyone in anyway but I just feel this is worth mentioning because the following text presented in Assembly Step 47 added greatly to my confusion:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-47_48-1-jpg

    Well, actually my rear axle «worked normally» and neither did I purchase a new one. Furthermore the drawings at the end of the manual describing the adjustment method mentioned the remark «Please focus on third member direction». I simply do not understand what this means; to decrypt this hint, dictionaries and the world wide web were of no great help either. In french one says «Il faut pas chercher à comprendre» which means there is no point in wanting to understand…

    What has been helpful though was a foto of the RTR-Chassis I found on the Internet.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-rtr-rear_axles-jpg

    With that in hand I compared the assembled axles lying in front of me with certain tie points as follows...

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-47_48-3-jpg

    ... and controlled if «everything» turns in the right direction:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-axles-arrows-forward-jpg

    And yes – thankfully all turns in the right direction as marked with the blue arrows (here pictured running forward – bearing in mind that the foto is a low-angle shot)! I do not have any problem whatsoever in admitting, that figuring out forward and reverse turning directions from different viewing-angles culminates in some slight brain-jogging - which is always welcome.

    All axles greased, lubricated, reassembled and completed, we are now ready to get to grips with the build of the Chassis - after one last Intermezzo before that:


    some bygone weeks of other commitments later, it’s about time to return to my hobby-project. True to my intention to report anything deferring from the regular building process, rather than ruminating the "official" building instructions, I am pleased to announce that I expanded the RC-Setup by a further item.

    The current RC-Setup had left me with Channel 6 being still unused. So how about treating the Beast II 6x6 with a functioning winch? I soon came to the conclusion that this is an absolute must – especially as it would be a shame to leave one of the six RC-Channels ​"empty".

    Starting to search the internet soon revealed that it is not just as straight forward as it seems at first glance to find a size-/scalewise suitable winch. The reason for this being that most Scale Trucks and Crawlers equipped with winches are on a scale of 1/10 or 1/12, whereas the RC4WD Beast II 6x6 is one of the rare Trucks/Crawlers of this kind on Tamiya RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    -Scale i.e. 1/14. After all that’s why I had chosen this RC4WD-Kit - because I imagined it would look great and be fun to also have it on the 1/14 Carson Goldhofer Step Deck Trailer pulled by a 1/14 Tamiya RC4WD Beast II 6x6 King Hauler or a Daimler Freightliner Cascadia – but let's save that for a later stage...

    Therefore I had to find the smallest working model-winch available and after some research I came across the "Single Motor Winch A" TC1616-03 from TFL Racing. Overall width including mounting plate: 2,6 inches – the winch itself 2,2 inches. In order to assess how and if this would fit in scalewise, I compared it with one of the biggest winches I could find in the real world, the Walrus 22.0 from Comeup Industries Inc. with an overall width of 29,3 inches. In 1/14 scale this would be near 2,1 inches. So the TC1616-03 could just about match and was ordered.

    Here we have the parts needed: the winch, the winch controller and an extension cable with plug. As the winch and the winch controller are from different manufacturers they both come with Sockets, so either of them has to be changed to a plug - the cable length has to be extended anyway.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-winch-1-jpg

    The next pictures show the winch in its position on the sketch-board for testing purposes and the controller connected to the receiver.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-winch-2-jpgRC4WD Beast II 6x6-winch-3-jpg

    Here we have all the (tie) rods, made out of 75 parts.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-tie-rods-10-jpg

    In the process of at last starting the Chassis assembly, I took the opportunity of giving the gearbox-screws a helping of threadlock, to have a peek inside.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-51_52-gear-box-3-jpg

    The next picture shows the (some of them preassembled) parts needed for the next few assembly-steps (No. 53-57)…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_56-jpg

    … and the chassis-[U]frame[/U] assembled to give a first idea of the proportions.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_57-1-jpg

    During the process of building the frame, I struck the first hiccup. One of the mounts for the steering servo, came on at an angle when tightening the screw properly, leading to a misalignment when placing the servo.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_57-2-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_57-5-jpg

    It was very helpful indeed, having been prewarned on this by an excellent report regarding the RC4WD Beast II 6x6 published by www.rcnewz.com, also delivering the solution to this small problem:

    as recommended therein, I filed M3-Washers down to tiny, square wedges which, for compensation of the inaccuracy, were then inserted into the square recess of the chassis-bar holding the servo mount. The first one was to thick but the thinner RC4WD Beast II 6x6 one to the right did the trick!

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_57-8-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_57-9-jpg

    The screw tightened, all looks good now.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_57-10-jpg

    So we now have the Chassis screwed together upto and including assembly step 57.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-55_57-12-jpg

    The parts of the assembly steps 58 – 61 are shown below…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-58_61-1-jpg

    … and it’s coming along nicely.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-58_61-2-jpg

    Looking at «The Beast’s» future «owners/drivers/codrivers» sitting on the chassisframe, I started wondering to what extent the dimensions reflect the scale of 1/14 in comparison with «the real thing» - of course in awareness of the remark in the description: «Custom designed for true Scale [I]Looks[/I]». It is always a balancing act between coherent proportions of a model and consistent scale in all dimensions – but also in this respect this kit comes off rather well.The figures being between 12,0 cm and 13,0 cm (4,72 in and 5,11 in) in height is on a par with 1/14 scale alright, assuming a body height of 1,70 m to 1,80 m (5 ft 7 in to 5 ft 11 in).

    On this basis I knocked up a small spreadsheet showing in the first column the dimensions of «The Beast II 6x6», in the second column its measurements extrapolated to the dimensions as they would be in the real world, and in the third column the effective measurements of the «MAN KAT 1 6x6», which «The Beast II 6x6» clearly is supposed to represent.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-scale-measurements-jpg

    (As the inserted chart was repeatedly obliterated for some reason or other, I now insert a Foto thereof...)

    I was delighted to learn that the discrepancies all in all are well in the ballpark. For example, the extrapolated overall length differs to the MAN KAT 1 6x6 by only one inch (!), which is remarkable. If we look at the width, in the real world the model would be 45 centimeters or 18 inches wider than the original actually is.

    The main discrepancy however seems to be with the tyres: the MAN KAT 1 6x6 is normally equipped with the following tyres: 14,00 R 20 M / 18 PR. Their exact diameter is 1238 mm (48,74 inches), whereas «The Beast»’s Tyres in the real world would have a diameter of 1480 mm (58,27 inches). This explains, why the scale figures look a little bit small, standing next to the tyres.

    But as mentioned earlier – everything is fine to my liking and I am far off from being picky. With persons standing next to it, «The Beast II 6x6» just looks even more monumental and impressive than the real thing does, without straining the reality-check at all.

    As previously mentioned, reporting anything deriving from the building process as per the manual is the aim of this report. And that brings us directly to the next assembly steps in the manual – Nos. 66-68 – assembly of the front bumper bar with the integrated headlights. The next picture shows the relevant parts…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-66_68-1-jpg

    .. and the 2 white LED’s (they do not come with the kit - one of them testwise inserted into the «reflector» case). Now this does not seem to be the best moment in time to fit those LED’s and hence the headlights, for the following reasons:

    in the first place the fixture for the LED preferably is mounted AFTER the LED-Bulb is inserted/installed (which will definitely happen at a later stage on the occasion of setting up the wiring.)

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-66_68-2-jpg

    The previous picture shows this fixture temporarily placed the way it will be fitted later on. The following picture shows the reflector case with the LED-bulb inserted, which brings me to reason number two for not yet srewing these elements together.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-66_68-3-jpg

    It goes without saying that the light emitting efficiency has to be higher, if the inner side of the front light case is coated with some kind of reflecting material or at least sprayed in a aluminium or silvery colour.

    So this whole set of parts is put aside for the time being – say until assembly steps 99/100, when the bumper bar will be finally needed.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-66_68-4-jpg

    Whether the inner part of the front light-/reflector-case will be spray-painted, lined with some sticky-back aluminium foil or anything else will show at a later stage...

    … or the next day – because I kept on thinking about different ways of primering, Alclad RC4WD Beast II 6x6 II, any other chrome spray paint, inserts made from ABS resin RC4WD Beast II 6x6 , styrene RC4WD Beast II 6x6 or sheet-plastic that could be simply coloured with Revell RC4WD Beast II 6x6 -Aqua-Color and so on.

    The complications of painting/varnishing with a split-batch- lacquer RC4WD Beast II 6x6 required to paint over powder-coated metal and not the least for such a small area made me preferring to work out an inlay. The inner measurements of the headlight-housing taken, I produced a mockup from thin cardboard, which worked quite favourably. Duplicating that small piece in ABS resin RC4WD Beast II 6x6 was something different – despite ABS glue or acetone to hold the four tiny trapezoidal parts together.

    So this approach does not seem to be feasible, leaving the possibility to inject a lighter colour of some sort to the inner part of the headlights. To give such colour somewhere to adhere to, I carefully started sanding RC4WD Beast II 6x6 the powdercoating where appropriate – which brought me to the idea of grinding back to the bare metal.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-headlights-2-jpg

    And here we have it – a shiny inner part of of the headlights. From a leftover bit of Perspex® I cut two headlamp lenses which will be filed to match upon finally installing these headlights.

    The next picture shows the headlights in operation, casting RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    much more light than before.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-headlights-1-jpg

    Next are the assembly steps 69-72, completion of the front axle. Worth mentioning seems to be the remark noted in assembly step 71, whereas the shocks with a color mark on the spring – at least this is how I interprete this remark – are the shocks for the front axle. Just: there are no color marks anywhere, neither on the springs nor on the shocks!

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-69_72-1-jpg

    However – if you remember the photograph of the shocks which I had taken during the unboxing, four of them are in a separate plasticbag within another plastic bag carrying all six shocks. This suggests, that the four grouped in a seperate bag are the rear ones – so I installed the two single ones to the front axle.

    The next picture shows the assembled front axle.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-69_72-2-jpg

    Nothing special to be reported during installation of the axles and links, the next picture showing a shot of the underside during this process before fitting the rear axle.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-76_80-2-jpg

    Having mounted the rear axle and remaining links brings us to the final assembly steps of the static chassis. First off the punisher shafts: repeatedly contemplated as being made from some sort of synthetic material (not to say plastic), at least to the touch they appear to feel like some sort of metal. So I brought this to the test with a magnet and that revealed an insteresting fact:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-81-88-1-jpg

    the small punisher shaft, linking the middle and rear axle, is entirely magnetic and hence completely and inluding the extendible part made from ferritic steel, whereas the middle, telescopic part of the two longer shafts is non-magnetic and upon closer inspection indeed seems to be made from some sort of hardwearing plastic – JUST WHY? We shall see how long they will last until it is time to replace them by steel ones available seperately. I added some lubricant (Gear-Flon®) to all three shafts – if it’s no use, it does not hurt. The M3 Driveshaft pins pictured above will be a headliner right hereinafter.

    Now the last Driveshaft pin refused to be inserted – no matter how precise the alignment was. A close analysis revealed this was down to that particular Driveshaft pin not being very well executed. They are just longer set screws, where part of the thread had been removed and on one of them also damaging the remaining bit of the thread. Again disassembling things, allowed me to «gently force in» the threaded part of the Driveshaft pin from the opposite side into the threaded part of the whole of the punisher shaft and instantly winding it out again. By doing so, I somehow adapted the external thread of the Driveshaft pin to the internal one of the punisher shaft, to the effect that it now fitted smoothly. I was lucky things did not turn out worse and disclaim any liability, should anyone take this as a recommended solution to this issue – in case it turns up at all in any other Kit.

    Now the Chassis is complete – at least in static form without wheels and electronic components – and even at this stage looks rather impressive.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-assembly-81-88-15-jpg

    The Wheels

    Anyone thinking this report is a bit of a stretch may feel free to skip at their liking – I just want to point out that I have the intention to address certain aspects of building «RC Scale Trucks/Crawlers» from my perspective as a newbie to this hobby and as such to detect newcomers’ stumbling blocks that are often overlooked - or the way forward taken for granted - by the Experienced and authors of manuals.

    Let’s start with the explanation in the manual on how to assemble the wheels, which sums up this process and at the same time gives a compact overview on the parts involved:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-0-jpg

    Enclosed in the Kit are the 6 tires, 6 internal Beadlock Wheels, and the plastic bag with the wheels hardware (M1.6x12 button head screws, M1.6 nuts and a matching Allen wrench). A socket screwdriver for M1.6 nuts (wrench size 3.2) would have been extremely helpful,
    as this size is not readily available in stores in some countries. So I additionaly purchased a set containing that essential 3.2 socket screw driver in my preferred online-store. Waiting for this tool to arrive, allows me to take a closer look and do some research on Beadlock Wheels.

    Usually the internal pressure of an inflated tire connects it to the wheel rim and builds a stirdy, aligned bond, also while rolling. In the event such frictional force between tire and rim is no longer strong enough to hold the tire in place (4WD, strong acceleration/retarding), Beadlocks assure that the tire stays in place. So a lip of the tire is pinched between the tread of the rim and an inner and outer ring screwed together.

    The next pictures show the parts of a wheel and the parts of a tire.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-11-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-19-jpg

    «Out of the box» the foam ring is already placed within the tire. Inserting the ring of the rim, presses the foam outward to the effect that it wells out between the edge of the rim and the lip of the tire. Part of the foam overlapping into the tires lip pinched between the edge of the ring and the outer and inner ring reduces the grip between the metal of the rim and the rubber of the tire. So the aim is to ensure good contact between the rubber of the tire and the metal of the Beadlock Wheel. If part of the foam gets between the tire and the wheel, it could result in the tire peeling off.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-18-jpg

    What I did upon recommendation in a video-clip on Beadlocks, was to cut away some of the inner part of the foam on both sides.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-20-jpg

    This has the effect that after inserting the ring of the rim, the foam does no longer interfere.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-21-jpg

    Pressing the inner and outer ring together while inserting the long and thin screws could end up in quite some fiddling about. So I copied a very clever gadget introduced in another video-clip on Beadlocks:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-16-jpg

    And this is how it works:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-15-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-14-jpg

    The wing nut is tightened until the inner and outer part of the rim meet the edge of the ring that had been inserted into the tire, clamping the lips of the tire. Then the 20 screws and nuts can be inserted and very gently tightened as well (the inner 8 are cosmetic, the outer 12 hold the wheel together). Once all are in, the wing nut can be released and the gadget removed. The tension of the outward force of the rubber ensures, that the nuts and bolts stay in place. Hence threadlock is not necessarily required (on the 140 screws/nuts of the seven wheels). This is also confirmed by experienced «Crawlers» on the web and amongst friends.

    Mentioning the spare wheel - they say «spot the difference»:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-12-jpg

    Often spare wheels look different – so no worries, just nice to know.

    So that’s Michonne – who had been introduced in the beginning of this report - standing next to the completed spare wheel as mentioned earlier on in the section dealing with the trueness to scale.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-26-jpg

    And a photo of the spare wheel with a toothpick lying on it to capture it’s size.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-27-jpg

    So now we are to assemble the six main wheels, using the helpful gadget I introduced before…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-28-jpg

    … and an other device I came up with during difficulties in perfectly aligning the screwholes of the inner and outer part of the rim:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-32-jpg

    Indeed it may look rather simple and rudimental but follows one of my main credos: it’s the simple things that work best.

    The problem was, that the two halfs of the rim can not be turned against each other once they are correctly insterted into the tire. Aligning the screwholes of these two halfs is quite a challenge – you would have to get it right during the insertion process – I was lucky there with the spare tire.

    So I clipped two pieces of 1 mm spring steel wire, inserted them into two opposite holes of a rimhalf and pushed them into a piece of scrap wood. After removing the rim and wires I carefully drilled two exactly vertical 1-mm-holes into the wood where the marks were and stuck the two wires back again.

    Due to the photographic optical distortion the wires look far from being vertical, so here is the proof that they are:


    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-33-jpg

    And that’s how it works: after inserting one half of the rim into the tire, this combination is slid over the two wires sticking up, then the scond half of the rim is threaded onto the wires and insterted into the tire as well.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-31-jpg

    The result is the two rimhalfs perfectly aligned, as the following (not very well focused) foto proves (some of the nuts and bolts are already inserted):

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-36-jpg

    Before the first screw went in, the wheel had been removed from the wires and gadget No. 1, as introduced earlier on, came into operation again and the wheel was screwed together.

    Here we have the completed wheel with a standard fixing pin lying on it for comparison of size (of the nuts).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-37-jpg

    Five more to go…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-38-jpg

    I’ll be coming back again once all the wheels are assembled and mounted to the chassis – which is not just yet, as the assembly steps 89-94 come first, covering the installation of…

    The Servos

    As shown in the section ‘Unboxing’, I opted for two waterproof Servos produced by HRC with the following specifications quoted from their product description:

    Quote

    Technical Data:

    Voltage: 4.8 ~ 6,0 Volts
    Signal type: Digital
    Bearings: Double Ball Bearings
    Gear: Metal Gear
    Torque: 13.2kg/cm @ 4.8V // 16.0kg/cm @ 6.0V
    Speed: 0.20s/60° @ 4.8V // 0.18s/60° @ 6.0V
    Dimensions: 41.2 x 39.5 x 21.5mm
    Weight: 55.0g
    Case: Nylon Fiber / Aluminium
    Waterproof: yes
    Cable: 300mm 22AWG Heavy Duty cable
    Connector: UNI Plug

    Unquote

    As the steering servo has to be built in upside down, I had to remove the enforcement notch between the screw holes – which I do not consider being a great disadvantage.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-servos-1-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-servos-2-jpg

    Then I widened the outermost hole in the servohorn with a 2,8-mm-hand-drill in order to screw in the M3-Screw connecting the horn to the steering link, not forgetting to insert the enclosed rubberpads into the screwholes of the servo before attaching it to the chassis.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-servos-3-jpg

    I secured the screw conntecting the link and the servohorn with a M3-Nut taken from my arsenal of fasteners and some thread lock – however this is not designated by the building instructions.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-servos-5-jpg

    The Servo operating the gear shift is installed in a similar manner.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-servos-8-jpg

    Then – looking a bit chaotic - the two Servos were connected to the provisional wiring arrangement…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-servos-6-jpg

    … in order to get them calibrated.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-servos-7-jpg

    In my case with my Absima CR6P RC System the Servos work best with the following calibration (R.B.D. meaning rear.back.down and L.F.U. meaning left.front.up.):

    Steering – Chanel 1

    TRIM R (right) at 30 % ensures directional stability
    EPA R.B.D. 45 % and L.F.U. 40 % defines the end point of the servo’s movement (to the effect that it stops when the maximum angle of turn is reached).

    Gear Shift – Chanel 3

    R.B.D. 90 % (on the occasion of a further test this value had to be reduced to 75 % - no explanation so far)
    L.F.U. 50 %

    So next the wheels will be on – and here we have the Chassis of the Beast, standing on its own «feet».

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wheels-fitting-9-jpg

    The Motor

    As recommended by the dealer I bought the kit from, I had chosen the 540 Brushed Electric Motor by HRC, Crawler Beast 60T Special Crawler – HRC5631-60 at a price of CHF 29.90 which is about the same in USD. Now let’s do some logical interpretation: HRC offers other Electric Motors in the 5631-range: HRC5631-13 – 13T (13T = 13 turns, which means the wires are wound 13 times around each anchor plate) delivering 32'000 r.p.m., the HRC5631-17 – 17T delivering 24'000 r.p.m. and the HRC5631-19 – 19T delivering 22'500 r.p.m. So more turns result in lower idle speed, less power consumption, more torque and this exactly corresponds to the needs of a crawler like the Beast II 6x6.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-motor-2-jpg

    However, on the occasion of purchasing a few small but essential additional parts for this project and determined to avoid paying an overhead for small orders I completed my shopping basket with the RC4WD-Motor recommended in the manual.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-motor-1-jpg

    This one came in about a third cheaper than the HRC-Motor. So I will be installing this one first and shall see, if it meets the promises made graphically on its packing…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-motor-1a-jpg

    Interesting enough anyway is the note printed thereon, that RC4WD offers brushed motors with turns ranging from 25 up to 100 turn configuration. So lots of options there to play with later on. The RC4WD-Motor recommended in the Manual was the 45T-one, which I got. The HRC-Motor will be added to my arsenal of spareparts for my Beast II 6x6.

    Next the pinion marked 14T 32P was attached to the motorshaft. 14T reflecting its 14 teeth, whereas, according to my research, 32P reflects the diametral pitch, meaning the number of teeth fitting on a partial circle diameter of one inch.

    The next two pictures show the motor installed with two 3x10 pan head screws that came from my personal stock of nuts and bolts.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-motor-4-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-motor-5-jpg

    Now at this very moment it starts to get INDIVIDUAL – INTERESTING – CHALLENGING because it’s time to tackle the dreaded

    Wiring

    The first picture shows the Chassis with some of the essentials in place such as the motor, servos, batterypack and the electronic speed controller…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-1-jpg

    … the next picture the additional electronic stuff to be installed – somehow – no: as neat as at all possible – I’ll be taking my time on this...

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-2-jpg

    …which does not mean I refrain from keeping you posted on important findings.

    In order not to run along cables where they would interfere somehow, it seemed important to me to step (back) to assembly position 35 – the grid of the cargo platform. Remember I found it more rewarding to get the chassis up and running before glueing the hundred styrene RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    parts together. But now I have to squeeze this grid in between because it is to sit on the Chassis rails and therefore the space along the edges will have to stay clear.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-14-jpg

    I did not follow the recommendation in the manual to apply threadlock to the screws holding these styrene RC4WD Beast II 6x6 parts together – I just do not see the point in applying threadlock on a screw that eats into styrene RC4WD Beast II 6x6 . Particularly as threadlock – especially the blue stuff - is reported to be rather unkind to most plastic materials – at least in the longer term.

    So the grid temporarily sits on the chassis rails and the next function check before permanently placing the loose wires is (very) successful (at the moment the connected sound module and speaker lie hidden under the frontaxle/motor).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-22-jpg

    Also the front bumper with the headlights is on now.

    In order to set up the wiring properly, a few tiny side-projects had to be tackled:

    A strip of very thin styrene RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    /ABS is fixed to the chassisrail on the left side in direction of forward movement in order to have a wider space to later on attach the cableclips restraining all the cables running to the front section.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-24-jpg

    A small box is made from scrapwood for the speaker, sound-module, cables and switches. One of it’s purposes is to house all that during the phase when the chassis is running before the cabin is assembled, secondly there should be the possibility to simply slide it as a complete soundunit into the free space in the back of the cabin, once that is completed.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-26-jpg

    A bent plate from 2-mm-/0,08 inch aluminium sheet is produced to attach the winch to the chassis.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-25-jpg

    Now with the winch the effort was not rewarded – it did not turn out as I had anticipated. The aim was to have the winch firmly attached to the chassis frame and yet to allow the cabin to be fully tilted for maintenance. Obviously that would work, but I would want the winch turned by 90° - it just does not look right like it is now – so that definitely needs some touching up.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-winch-5-jpg

    But hey – the first test run is successfull!

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-1st-run-jpg

    So now there is some extensive styrene RC4WD Beast II 6x6 glueing on the plate because I need the cabin ready in order to figure out how to best install the winch and only then can the final wiring be sorted.

    The Cabin

    It started off with two disappointments, the first one being the middle wall of the cabin:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-2-jpg

    … a bit twisted, isn’t it?

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-9-jpg

    Furthermore one of the window panes did not fit (I wonder where that red line comes from, because that’s where the cut should have gone through…). All in all nothing serious though and more than forgiveable, considering the still excellent cost/quality-ratio of this kit.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-5-jpg

    Carefully running a Stanley-Knife 243 times along a metal ruler down that red line cured this problem. Also the raw form of the cabin turned out quite acceptable – despite that rather twisted part. The toothpick lies next to the cabin for comparison of size.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-10-jpg

    Allthough there is quite a sizeable service hatch over the rear half of the cabin, I want the whole roof to be removable in order to have unlimited access to the inside – to the rear half for maintenance of the electronics stored therein whereas, the front half should get a decent interior design and there should be a possibility to exchange/refix the figures or any other stuff rolling about later on in case of need. And that’s possible only with reasonable access.

    The sidewings of the roof are mounted at a certain angle – so I would have to get that right first time and came up with the following simple solution to hold everything in place while waiting for the glue to set:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-11-jpg

    For those curious to know which glue I use: it’s Tamiya RC4WD Beast II 6x6 ’s Cement for ABS – item 87137 - it bonds ABS just excellent!

    The roof turned out nicely as well. It will be held in position by rare earth magnets and will be detachable easily if so required – at least that’s the plan anyway.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-15-jpg

    The outer raw form of the cabin is now sorted, so that it can be temporarily fitted to the chassis in order to figure out how and where to best attach the winch and complete the wiring.

    But having the cabin ready to this extent also revealed that an awful lot remains doing to it. First off – the interior floor where the two seats will go is about half an inch to high – so part of that has to be lowered accordingly. Then decent seats have to be installed, and the details such as dashboard, steering wheel, instruments etc. completed. I wonder where this journey takes me to – as nothing thereof is included in the kit – at least not in mine.

    I finally got the wiring sorted in the best possible way and to a satisfactory level. I had been using 3M-sticky-back cableclamps that I attached in two parallel rows above each other to that thin styrene RC4WD Beast II 6x6 strip I ran along the inside of the chassis rails.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-29-jpg

    Then the «Soundbox» sits on the platform in the rear half of the cabin and is secured by a screw that runs through the dividing wall to the front half of the cabin.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-32-jpg

    I drilled and cut out some holes – one in the bottom of the cabin (green arrow on the next picture) where the cables can be led through and connected to the soundbox. For maintenance later on, the cabin roof can be taken off, the soundcables disconnected, the cabin tilted over the front hinges, in order to give full access to all that is underneath.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-35-jpg

    Two more holes in the side wall of the cabin are for the switch and the volume control.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-36-jpg

    These switches will be covered later on by the spare wheel. I will think of a way to install the sparewheel to some kind of rack that can be folded down (like on the original MAN KAT 1).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wiring-37-jpg

    So that’s the wiring sorted in a pretty decent manner. Also the winch is now mounted much better than before. I had bent two new plates from 2-mm-aluminium-sheet and screwed the hole thing together.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-winch-7-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-winch-6-jpg

    The next picture shows the current status…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-halftime-1-jpg

    … all functioning well and neatly tidied up. So now lot’s of cosmetic work ahead, such as sorting out the detachable roof and of course the interior detailing and paintwork.

    The (detachable) Roof

    As mentioned earlier, it is a key factor for me that unlimited access to the cabin’s interior is possible, be it for easy maintenance of the electronic components, building and servicing the interior of the front half of the cabin (exchanging figures), internal paint job etc. I just don’t understand, why such a Kit is not cunstructed with a fully detachable roof right from the start – it would not hurt anyone but make «life a lot easier».

    First I thought about using magnets such as executed in this example:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-roof-1-jpg

    From a piece of scrap ABS-Material (2 mm x 4 mm) I found lying around in my workshop, I glued together some dices, which I would then glue sidewise to the inner walls of the cabin, the magnets being glued to the dice’s side facing upward. Then in the correct spots magnets or pieces of ferretic metal would be glued to the inside of the roof, holding it in place when put on.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-roof-3-jpg

    Thank goodness at this early stage I tested glueing the magnets to the ABS-Dices with: hot RC4WD Beast II 6x6 glue, metal glue, anaerobic adhesive, all purpose glue, Zap-a-Gap, Superglue… No matter what I had tested – at the latest after two or three seperations/pullingtests either of the magnets came off again. Probably Shoe Goo would have done it but that’s just not easily available around here. Perhaps smaller magnets with less magnetization would have been better – but these were the ones I could get and that’s the way the cookie crumbles.

    So I decided to set the stage for the roof to be screwed on and off.

    To make a long story short please see the following picture:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-roof-20-jpg

    To the sides above the front windows there was only a strip 6mm wide. From that scrap piece of 4mm-ABS, I cut two pieces about an inch long, tapering them on one side so that they fit the angles. Then I predrilled and temporarily fixed the ABS-pieces to the cabinfront with tiny button head screws 1,2 x 8mm. Then I placed the roof on top, eyeballed the center of the ABS-pieces underneath and predrilled a small hole right through. After that I took off the roof again, detached the ABS-pieces and widened the hole to a diameter of 4mm. Into these holes I knocked a M2-Nut which I carefully secured with two drops of Zap-a-Gap – allthough that did not even seem necessary. Then I added some Tamiya RC4WD Beast II 6x6 -ABS-Cement to the sides of the ABS-pieces and and screwed/glued them back into place. So now the Roof can be srewed on from the outside and that’s the first two corners done.

    The center front and the two back corners were a little bit easier. For those I cut three brackets from a left-over aluminium profile, did some precise measuring and screwed them into place after cutting a M2-thread into the flanks facing upward. So now the roof can be screwed down from the outside with five M2 button head screws.

    Now this is what I particularly like about this kind of trucks – you can assess functionality above beauty and give it a down-to-earth-approach. Just imagine a SCANIA- or Daimler Freightliner Cascadia-Truck with glossy, artistic airbrush RC4WD Beast II 6x6 finish and scale-oversized screwheads sticking out of the roof… better not but with an all purpose MAN KAT 1 alias Beast II it just adds to the individuality and rustic charm.

    The next picture shows the roof in place with the screws not fully turned in for demonstration purpose.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-roof-19-jpg

    Yet there’s another issue to be solved: the locking latch of the cabin has to be screwed into place with its spring-mechanism inside the fender-area, where there is no chance of getting to it anymore later on (see following pictures (upside-down)).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-lock-latch-1-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-lock-latch-2-jpg

    Hence some further improvisation is required in attaching another bracket with a threaded M2-hole to the inside of the bottom part…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-lock-latch-4-jpg

    … so that this coverpiece can be easily taken off by unscrewing from the outside and giving at all access for maintenance to the spring mechanism and nuts holding the latch in place.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-lock-latch-3-jpg

    These are the tasks I wanted to accomplish before the break already previously announced.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-break-2-jpg

    As mentioned earlier, for unknown reason this kit comes without the merest hint of an interior – therefore:

    The cabin interior

    The figures sitting on whatever kind of bench this part of the raised cabin-‘floor’ is supposed to represent, are placed O.K. in height.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-3-jpg

    But with decent seats installed, it looks like this:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-9-jpg

    Comparing with the MAN KAT 1 in original, the seating area is not even much too high and the side windows indeed are rather low compared to the front ones but with the driver’s fixed arm position this is not going to work on this model.

    So the area where the seats will be fixed has to be lowered by 15 mm (approx. 0,6 inches). I cut out the area and knocked up 2 inserts made from scrap ABS and glued them into place with Zap-a-Gap (ingenious product by the way).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-17-jpg

    The idea is to insert pieces of an M3-thread-rod into the figures…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-22-jpg

    … transfix the seat through a whole drilled into it in the correct position, run the rod through the cabin floor and screw it on with a nut from the underside. This way, the seats and figures can easily be removed in case of need.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-25-pfeil-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-26-pfeil-jpg

    The red arrow on the two previous pictures points to the remedy of another hiccup encountered while building this kit: temporarily placing the cabin onto the chassis during the installation process of the winch, I had already noticed a rather poor fit and was aware that this was definitely one more thing that needed sorting out. Placing the cabin onto the chassis left it wobbly and the flaps of the two hinges were hanging slightly instead of lying flush on the chassis in order to be screwed down to it. Also the back of the cabin did not hit the grid it is supposed to rest on. So now was the time to investigate, which was not so easy given the fact that most of the contact points between the cabin and the chassis are concealed when in place. After a while I suspected the steering servo to cause the problem – bingo!

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-18-jpg

    After some cutting out and covering up the issue was solved and presto – a snug fit of the cabin to the chassis. Chewing it over I nevertheless started wondering, because the standard Servo I had used as steering servo was even less higher that the RC4WD-one recommended in the manual and it was definitely fitted correctly…

    Anyway – now it’s sorted.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-20-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-21-jpg

    Next a steering wheel and a dashboard had to be made – both easily removable in case any maintenance work is required. I made the steering wheel from a 0,13 inch brass rod (which was quite hard to bend and yes, I know it’s not the perfect circle).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-33-jpg

    Placing the shaft of the the steering wheel into a larger brass tube, into which I had cut a M2-thread, allows the steering wheel to be adjusted to the correct height, once the driver is seated. The tube is permanently fitted into the cabin with hot RC4WD Beast II 6x6 glue, whereas the dashboard can be screwed on and off from below the cabin.

    I printed a picture of a MAN KAT 1 Dashboard onto some inkjet vinyl labelling material, which will be stuck onto the dashboard once that is painted. A foto thereof will follow when done.

    To make a long story short here is a picture of the trucks cabin interior – seats, figures, steering wheel (will be painted along with the interior) and passenger assist handles.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-cabin-interior-40-jpg

    A big jump

    The interior of the cabin sorted to a satisfactory extent, the cabin roof was next. Remember I wanted Michonne standing from time to time – observing through the roof hatch. This meant, the cover/lid of the hatch having to be (re-)movable. On the Original MAN KAT 1 the lid of the hatch is raised by the amount of its thickness and then swung aside, pivoting on an axle which is also depicted in this model. Surely the one or other keen modeller would take on the challenge of duplicating this mechanism in 1/14 scale but for me that would be taking it a step too far.

    But I had to find a way to be able to remove the lid of the hatch and to put it back on again. According to the manual it would simply have to be glued into place. I came up with a pragmatic solution as follows:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-1-jpg

    The above picture shows the lid, the mount and some strips of ABS I had cut to size. The following pictures show the result I achieved. I had to overcome the gap between the top of the lid and the mountingframe by glueing on some «reinforcing»-strips, to which the mount could be attached. The bar pictured on the right on the next foto holds the lid in place from inside the cabin.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-2-jpg

    The bar is screwed to the inside of the cabin roof and the lid can be screwed on through its center hole and this is how it looks (the screws not in yet):

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-3a-jpg

    The next picture shows how the lid can alternatively be screwed on in an open position.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-3b-pfeil-jpg

    The yellow arrow points to the depicted axle/pivot point, around which the lid would be swung to the side in the original MAN KAT 1.

    Things going rather smoothly, I thought I might just as well tackle the flatbed with the side walls. A good 17 inches long and 8 inches wide it is quite sizeable and that’s why this has been a burning issue for me to have ahead. This because the Tamiya RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    Cement for ABS I had introduced earlier is indeed excellent for welding ABS together, but dries off rather quickly if applied with the brush attached to the bottle’s lid. So if it has to be applied to quite a stretch like in this case, you have to be quick and if I say quick I mean quick! It would be an advantage if this excellent product could be available additionaly in a container with a hollow needle as applicator.

    Urged that way to proceed rather swiftly resulted in having the flatbed together in no time.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-4-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-5-jpg

    The pictures also show the screws by which the flatbed will be attached to the grid, in order to be able to exchange it with different structures. In addition it is easier to sort the cables while placing the grid first and then on top of it the flatbed or whatever other structure.

    Some further pictures sum up the current status – at first the Chassis:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-6-jpg

    Then the Chassis with the cabin…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-7-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-8-jpg

    … plus the grid…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-9-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-10-jpg

    … and completed with the flatbed.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-11-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-jump-12-jpg

    And it starts to look like a truck now – but still quite a few things to do, so stay tuned.

    The (big) Paintjob

    Already during the evaluation-process of chosing a kit and even before buying it, I knew that most likely there will be some spraypainting to be done. Due to my massive allergic reaction on solvents – irrespective of and even when wearing a good quality protective mask – I had to find an alternative to the usual solvent-based spraypaints. After some research I came across the waterbased spraypaint branded «DUPLI-COLOR AQUA», readily available in most home improvement stores here in Europe.

    There are 50/50 conflicting statements as to whether a primer RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    has to be used or not if applied to hard plastic such as ABS. The snag in it: the recommended primer RC4WD Beast II 6x6 for plastic is highly solvent-based. So I have to stick to the 50 % stating that the colour can easily be applied to hard plastic directly. Already last year I had bought a can in order to put this to the test, especially with regard to its durability on ABS-surfaces. I had sprayed a scrap piece of ABS – from which the cabins and structures of most kits are made – pinned it to a stick and poked it into the soil in the garden – southfacing.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-paintjob-1-jpg

    Before spraying, the top-square had been prepared with Isopropyl Alcohol RC4WD Beast II 6x6 , the lower one had been washed/cleaned with some ordinary washing-up liquid – just to see if varying preperation would have an effect on the adhesion of the paint to ABS on the long run. These samples had been left exposed in direct sunlight, during the summer months to temperatures of upto 38°C (100°F), drought for weeks followed by heavy rain and during the winter months to temperatures of at least 15°C below zero (5°F) crusted with ice and snow. After many months the samples still looked the same – so all good there and I knew, this was the spraypaint to go for.

    Before starting the actual paintjob on the kit, I also wanted to test the resistance of the paint to abrasive force. So I sprayed a scrap piece and put it into a container, together with all sorts of rubber and metal junk.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-paintjob-4-jpg

    The container was closed and very heavily tossed and rattled over and over again whenever I came across it in a spare minute.

    After having been exposed to brute force for quite a while, the testpiece still looked like this:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-paintjob-5-jpg

    So we definitely have a winner here!

    There was not a lot to mask off, nevertheless the excellent Tamiya RC4WD Beast II 6x6
    - Masking RC4WD Beast II 6x6 -Tape came in handy…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-paintjob-7-jpg

    I used that Dupli-Color Aqua spray paint and chose the colour beige.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-paintjob-9b-jpg

    Representative for all the other spraypainted parts here’s the cabin in the DIY-spraybooth I had temporarily installed in the garage.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-paintjob-13-jpg

    All the small parts have been brushpainted with Revell RC4WD Beast II 6x6 Aqua Color. An arrangement of all painted parts will be shown on a foto before final assembly once everything had the chance to thoroughly dry for a couple of days.

    The Seats

    While all painted parts lie drying, I wanted to do something about the seats. In fact they are perfect as they are but I had the feeling they could do with some extra TLC. The plan was to upholster them with some fabric, which I found in a hobbystore.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-seats-1-jpg

    I produced the patterns for the seat and the backrest…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-seats-2-jpg

    … and did some upholstery.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-seats-4-jpg

    And that’s how they look installed in the cabin…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-seats-5-jpg

    … just for the sake of adding a little individuality here and there.

    Final assembly (Part one)

    The next pictures show the operative chassis together with all the painted parts, thoroughly dried and ready to be assembled.


    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-final-assembly-1-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-final-assembly-3-jpg

    Before that happens, I did some work on an insert for the flatbed, as I wanted wooden planks but without messing up the original flatbed and in order to have the choice of also keeping it plain.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-flatbed-3-jpgRC4WD Beast II 6x6-flatbed-5-jpg

    Find out how that turned out - later in the show...

    Furthermore I have modified the mount of the spare tire by adding a hinge so that it can be folded down like on the original MAN KAT 1. This step was necessary in order to have easy access to the switch and volume control of the soundmodule, which I had decided to be operable from the outside. The relevant additional parts can be traced on the overview-foto. Other than that the final assembly should be straight forward and hopefully I shall revert with pictures of the final product in due course.

    The Windows

    Uhhh – I’m back again already. During the final assembly process I came across another strange situation. First I fitted the two large front windows. Remember, the frames of these windows had to be glued to the outside of the cab. Apart from the very narrow area these frames could be glued onto, that was fine. So glueing in the two front windows into the recess with Humbrol Clearfix was an easy job – due to the impeccable fit.

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-windows-7-jpg

    Now with the sidewindows that was a different story – the poor fit of those was already addressed earlier in this report in the chapter dealing with the construction of the cabin. Now let’s start with the two frames for the side-windows, supposed to hold those in place. Two issues:

    the rectangular, at first sight equal shape suggests, that either frame fits either side in either way – but this ain’t! One of these two EQUALLY AND REGULAR LOOKING pieces exclusively fits perfect to the right side of the cab (in direction of travel), but only if held the right way up – only then it sits snug into the recess – but why?
    That recess is supposed to take the windowpane and the frame should sit further out, holding the latter in place. That’s at least how the construction would make sense and how the front windows had been installed…

    Question marks on this have been widely shared also in other Forums. So it’s working with what we got. I wanted to have the side-windows partially open in order to avoid reflections on the glas completely distracting the view to the inside of the cab – for obvious reasons.

    Blindly onward I fired up my Proxxon® circular saw, cut the widowpane in two pieces and succeeded – nice cut! From scrap pieces of ABS-material I cut thin stripes to glue into the recess in order to have something in the top of the recess the frame can sit on. Luckily I could avoid my error in reasoning before glueing (evident on the next picture shown by the two red crossmarks).

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-windows-9-jpg

    Of course the two vertical strips are redundant as in reality the window should have the possibility of being moved upward…

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-windows-jpg

    The previous picture shows, that the windows turned out rather well how I did them. The next one a further step during final assembly:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-final-assembly-14-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-final-assembly-16-jpg

    The cable loom can be threaded into the back half of the cabin through a hole in its floor when the cab is tilted and then connected.

    Final assembly (Part two – in note form)

    Fitted the locking latch to the cab
    Mounted the easily removable grid with the pegs
    Mounted the spare wheel, foldable downward by installing a hinge
    Drilled 4 holes into the arms of the grid in order to fix the detachable flatbed with M3-screws and wingnuts
    Installed Fire Extinguisher, Dashboard, Steering Wheel, Seats, Driver, Grab Handles, Co-Driver
    Installed Speaker-Box with Soundmodule, Switch and Volumecontrol
    Optimized the cable loom
    Glued on the mounts for the backlights with Zap-A-Gap
    Screwed on the roof and mounted the serving hatch
    Glued the RC4WD-Logo
    to the radiator grille after coating the Logo in GOLD (-paint) (despite the hiccups)
    Glued the radiator grilles to the cab
    Mounted Doorhandles,Driving Mirrors, Windscreen Wipers, Michonne and Sasha…

    … and that’s how it turned out:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-final-assembly-19-jpg

    …and after having mounted the flatbed out in the wild:

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wild-5-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wild-2-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wild-3-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wild-4-jpg

    RC4WD Beast II 6x6-wild-10-jpg

    Closing words

    I hope everyone interested in this report enjoys reading it as much as I did writing and editing it. Therefore the written words are of equal significance as the pictures are.

    Before I am on to the next project – if I get some or other reaction to this post I may consider to do a report on that as well – there is some fine tuning to do on the Beast II (perhaps a stronger steering servo, definitely change the Motor to the HRC Crawler Beast 60T or an RC4WD-Motor with more turns for a bit more torque and who knows what else).

    With my modelling background being modelrailways 1/160 and slotcar-conversions 1/32 this has been my first modelling-project on a larger scale. I enjoyed (nearly) every single minute and learned a lot along the way. So I definitely will be able to put this experience to good use on the large scale project I already have on the backburner…

    Cheers – and bye for now

    Peter (alias Phileas) 05-06-2019




















































    Last edited by Phileas; 05-06-19 at 01:50 PM. Reason: completion
    QUOTE QUOTE #1

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