I've read quite a bit on this forum about spraying mist coatsfollowed up by wet coats when using spray paint. I'd appreciate some further explanation as to what exactly these are and how they are applied.
Thanks,
Chris
I've read quite a bit on this forum about spraying mist coatsfollowed up by wet coats when using spray paint. I'd appreciate some further explanation as to what exactly these are and how they are applied.
Thanks,
Chris
I'm glad you asked that question because it seems a lot of folks have a lot of trouble in this area. The way I work this procedure is like so:
After I've washed the part in soap and water, dry it and hang it, I take my primerand just spray a very light thin coat of paint or in other words a light mist of paint. I move the can fast over the part. I don't even worry about covering my part. I let the part flash
(let the solvent evaporate out for a bit) for a minute and spray another coat just like it and let it flash
again. I still don't worry about covering the whole part. I let it set again for a minute and spray a third light coat and let that set to dry for about 2 hours. The purpose of this "misting" and light spraying is to allow as much of the solvent especially if you're using lacquer
(which is all I use) to blow off so it doesn't sit on the plastic and mess it up. You're in a sense, laying down a barrier coat so the solvent in the next coats don't dissolve the first few coats and get to your plastic. The next coat or wet coat
means you spray a complete coat onto the part until it looks wet. You must be careful not to spray too thick a coat because it will drip, run, sag and bubble up which takes some work to repair. That's basiccally the difference between the two. Hope this helps.
Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
These are two good painting tutorials. I would add that nothing beats experience, and trial and error. I read as much as I could and asked a lot of questions before my first paint job, but I still learned more from messing it up when I actually began painting!
TamiyaUSA.com - Painting with Tamiya Synthetic Lacquers
How To Lay Down A Perfect Paint Job::BMC
Mouppe.
Hey mouppe, thanks for putting up those two links. The second one was where I learned to throw paint. If I remember correctly, that tut was done by Alex Kustov whose a real modeling guru. His stuff is amazing.![]()
Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
its cool that this popped up i will be writeing a step by step how to shoot paint from primerto buffing it out with spray cans on 2 1/10th scale hard plastic tamiya
r/c bodys for 2 member on rc10talk as i needed pictures of bodys for my website im putting together so i told them pay for the paint etc no labor. i will be useing house of kolor spray cans sold by black gold(check them out 5.50 for unthinned paint for airbrushes,12 for spray can and theres some other stuff)
i should have everything by saturday or monday. if you guys want ill post it over here also. i wanted to do this write up to show it doesnt take a bunch of equipment for a very nice paint job. it will be hand wetsanded/buffed. the kit with the polishing pads includes 1800,2400,3200,4000,6000,8000,12000. check the supplyer out
[B]Black Gold : Polishing Pad Kit[/B]
Go for it, Alex. The more knowledge we can accumulate, the more it helps us in the long run. Go ahead and put it into the tutorial section. I'm sure you'll get alot of views.
Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
awsome i really think it will be helpful it will show everything from smoothing the body to primer,base coat,pearl paint
then also i will be doing a candy paintwhich is a little harder because its see through and everything in the metallic
or silver basecoat such as dust will show through and then it will get hand buffed/polished and this is cool because it is on plastic just like what the big t/big deuce etc are made out of. this is high quality paint and it is the same as real house of kolor paint just packaged by the company.
im gonna do two write ups one candy its more involved although they sell kandy basecoat colors which arent transparent although youll need an airbrushfor that.
the other ill do pearl. each job your looking at 35-40 unless your useing their metallics or solid colors and depending on the clear you use(i prefer duplicolor or rustoleum myself).
the reason for the mist coat is to give it something to grab onto and i will show this.
even if one person learns something from this i feel its worth my time. i just want to show it doesnt take an airbrush,compresser,etc to do a show quality paint job it just takes some time. this applys to other brands of paint but ever since i found this company i feel its worth the money although i use cheaper enamal clear but everything under the laquer house of kolor paint cannot be enamal,etc.
they make enamal and acrylicfor airbrushes/paint guns
Bookmarks