Micro Mask...Macro problem

[Yev Kassem]

I am building the Pocher Aventador roadster. While Pocher was nice enough to paint the Lamborghini script and the lines on the top of the intake the plastic doesn't have the texture of the real car.

So I clear coated the letters and the lines (all the white) then after that dried I applied Micro Mask and let that dry.

I used texture black from a rattle can and it came out great except for one big problem.
The micro mask is impossible to get off. Comes off with soap and water...I think not.

It would have been easier to just paint over them and then repaint the script.

Any ideas?

Thanks

pete

Here is a picture of the blue menace in action.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lyo20lguv3...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

[Egon]

Try looking at the other builds on the site, maybe there are some hints.

[Yev Kassem]

Oh man yes I should do that...I didn't think about that. ��
Just kidding...

I looked at a lot of builds and some say Micro Mask is great and some say it's not. They all agreed that putting down some clear first was important; so I did that. I searched the web and even contacted micro scale. They just claim it just comes off with soap and water which is why you have to use a petroleum based paint which I did. I tried lightly sanding it and that won't even take it off it just gets soft and then hardens back over.

"For easy detail masking " yeah it's easy to apply
" cleans up with water" sure washes right off

" peeling it away" No!!!

The most visible part of my build is ruined by the very product designed to protect it. Now I will have to order a replacement.

[Jo NZ]

Try stripping it with Simple Green first - it works fine on acrylics , sometimes a little slower on lacquers

[Yev Kassem]

PS request at the bottom.

My conclusion on micro-Scale micro-mask.

Works great if you want to mad off something unpainted. I used it on my Aventador seats and trim, painted them and it's pealed right off like magic. The trim is orange and black and I thinking of doing the seats steering wheel and door fibers using super fine acrylic suede powder for a change of pace from the leather look. So I will use it again for sure.

Abosolutely no textured surfaces even if you clear coat them. It took 5 hours to clean it off the Aventadors intake cover.

While I am a painter of many things. I can paint you a Ferrari at sunrise over looking a lake. With a brush I am good I am terrible at painting anything that use air. I am constantly amazed how you guys who restore or repaint bodies achieve great results! The prep the conditions. Mixing thinking stroke ;) technique.

Sanding down a $500-$600 Aventador and reprinting it. It's not what I am good at

Back to micro-mask it reacts different under different conditions. So its a great product for the right conditions but never use it without testing it exactly as you intend to use it.

Its things like this that make modeling fun. We each have out our skills. I just figured out a way to make amazing looking muffler and hose clamps I can't wait to share with you all. I also mastered cutting stainlessstewl faucet tubing to make braided head shields and tubing.

My Aventador engine goes together this weekend and I will post pics with my build.

PS

Has anyone ever used thin electroluminescent tubing for DRL and other vehicle lighting. I got an LED look by just covering parts of it and one tube can save a lot of soldiering time.

Thanks

pete

[Yev Kassem]

Sorry was testing uploading photos will take better ones when it's done this weekend.

[Yev Kassem]

Simple green and goo gone��