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    1. Kit: Roger Zimmermann, by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: Dec 2017 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  (16 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 23
      Started: 05-17-12 Build Revisions: Never  
      Not Supported Scratch Built

      As stated in my presentation, I'm doing since 2 years a Continental Mark II, scale 1:12. Presently, I'm doing the floor; the trunk floor is ready. The next step is going towards the front by doing the floor under the rear seat. To spare metal and unnecessary reworks, I did first a model with cardboard. Now, it will be easier to cut the brass at the proper place.


      Continental Mark II
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  1. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Continental Mark II
    For various reasons, I intended to begin the windshield wipers. It opened a large can of worms...Some months/years ago, I did a drawing how I intended to attach the wipers to the body with a screw at the firewall, inside the passenger compartment. That's good and fine, but impossible: before the wipers can be installed, the windshield must be in place, as well as the lower outside molding. Then, I cannot install the dash anymore! When the dash is in place, it's not possible any more to screw the wiper transmission or whatever construction. Therefore, I had to rethink the whole story. Before I can do the wipers, the surrounding parts must be done: the lower molding and the wiper "transmissions".

    The original lower molding is done in 3 parts; indeed 4 as the fourth one is part of the outside Mirror. Mine was done in one part and the "transmission" will be soft soldered on the molding. The bracket for the outside mirror will be silver soldered to the molding as soft soldering may be too week, the joint surface is small.

    The pictures are showing: the way I did drill the molding and body (the molding has 3 attaching pins), one "transmission" soldered to the molding and how it looks like on the body. I cannot solder the other transmission now, I have first to do and silver solder the mirror bracket. Then I may begin the wipers...








    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1307

  2. markus68's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Markus
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    outstanding as usual :-)
    QUOTE QUOTE #1308

  3. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Thanks Markus!


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1309

  4. PaulPK's Avatar Active Member
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    Paul
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    Roger Zimmermann
    That is excellent. At first glance it seems simple but is deceptively complicated! IMHO
    QUOTE QUOTE #1310

  5. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Continental Mark II
    Happy New Year to all!

    It's not the first time I'm doing wipers for models. This time, I have a lot of difficulties either because I'm getting older or because the wipers for the Mark II are much smaller/thinner that the ones for the Toronado and Avanti. On those 2 models, the wipers are made with bent brass and are movable like real wipers.

    To have the same conditions on the Mark II wipers, they should be made with much thinner Continental Mark II brass (or steel). I tried to do the small parts which are inserted into the arms with 0.1 mm (0.004") thick brass. After having about 10 unusable parts, I realized that that thin material is not suited for this application and I went back to 0.2 mm thick brass. With a thicker material, there is still the possibility to correct the shape by filing the metal away; to do the same with the thinner Continental Mark II one is questionable...Those parts are on the upper RH corner of the picture; they are not yet to the right dimension. I will trim them once they are soldered to the arm (not yet done); right now, I cannot hold them anymore...

    Same problem with the blade holder: to have the correct shape, I should to first a form on which I could hammer the brass. Again, with 0.1 mm, the "stamping" must be perfect the first time which I know I cannot.

    Therefore, I took a decision: the holder will be done with some stock and the holder will be soft soldered on it. I think it's better to have a dimension correctly part than a oversized one. Anyway, the model will barely stay under the rain...




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1311

  6. Egon's Avatar Moderator
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    Looking very fine, what are you using for viper blades ?
    You need a better micro lens for photos of small tings, I have a Nikon 40mm micro and a 60mm micro.
    QUOTE QUOTE #1312

  7. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Egon, you are right about the camera. I should buy another one, I just have an old Sony pocket one...Could you please send me more info about what you have? In the jungle of available cameras, I really don't know what to choose...reflex, not reflex...
    About the blades: 30 years ago, I did a bunch of rubber blades; I will glue them at the brass blade once the assembly is chromed.


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1313

  8. Egon's Avatar Moderator
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    Continental Mark II
    About cameras there are different opinions on the marks, I have Nikon D810, others perfer Canon, I also have a Nikon D5200 kit that I started with, very good camera, its for sale now at 3995,- dkr. I payed 5000,- for it, later I bought the 40 mm micro leens with that you can take pictures in 2 cm from object, some pictures from the 40 mm: Bottle skips Iw'e done long time ago.
    Attached Images Attached Images Continental Mark II-bs-1-jpg Continental Mark II-bs-2-jpg Continental Mark II-bs-3-jpg 
    QUOTE QUOTE #1314

  9. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Continental Mark II
    Thanks Egon for the pictures and the choice of cameras. I'm not that far...

    After the excesses (food and drinks) from the end of year plus a week of so called vacation in our house in France, it was time to resume the work with the wiper arms. They are made with 0.2 mm brass; the back is closed with a provision to attach a spring (this will be a tiny spring...). The first attempt to rivet the shaft on the support went bad. I had to rework both curved parts emerging at the base of the windshield. The second try went better as you can see on the picture.

    The original plan was to soft solder the wiper blade to the arm; I'm afraid it will not be right and the blades will not lie perfectly on the windshield. Therefore, I decided to modify the blades to have a very thin axle (0.3 mm) connected to the arm.

    Oh, by the way, the windshield you see is not the right one, it's a polyester tentative to make sure that the negative form on which the Plexiglas will be shaped has a correct shape.

    You can also see that the outside mirror arm is now integrated into the lower molding. To be sure that the wipers will not interfere with the hood, I installed it for testing. Better to try now as when the piper arms are chromed. Fortunately, there is no interference.




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1315

  10. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Continental Mark II
    Indeed, I used the whole afternoon for 2 tiny parts acting as "bearings" for the wiper blades and finalized the assembly of the blades to the arms. Concentration is the key for those small cooper "axles" of 0.3 mm and riveted to the blades.

    As you can see, the hood was removed as taking a lot of space.

    The springs and rubber blade are still missing; they will be added when the assemblies are chromed.




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1316

  11. markus68's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Wow. I know how difficult it is to build such small parts.
    QUOTE QUOTE #1317

  12. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Continental Mark II
    Yes Markus...I'm glad there is no wiper in the back!
    From another forum, I had a request to put one wiper on my hand; I'm sharing this picture here. That assembly can almost be bent just by looking too severely at it...Each wiper is an assembly from 13 separate parts either soft or silver soldered; the number will be 15 with the spring and rubber blade. The way both wipers are done, the rubber blade should follow the contour of the windshield in the rest position.




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1318

  13. PaulPK's Avatar Active Member
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    Roger Zimmermann
    Excellent!
    QUOTE QUOTE #1319

  14. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Continental Mark II
    Thanks PaulPK!

    After this difficult wiper story, I had to do something simple: the dryer/receiver for the A/C. On the Mark II, it is located at a strange position: under the floor, attached to the frame.



    Once installed on the frame, I put the body on to check for interference: I had to do a massage to the floor to have enough clearance...


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1320

  15. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Continental Mark II
    Some time ago, a member from the Mark II forum discovered an error at the heater core: when I was doing them, I picked the wrong picture on the net and I did 2 identical parts. The result was that the inlet/outlet tubes were on the top at the LH heater and at the bottom at the RH heater core. In fact, the RH part is a mirror image of the other one. The correction was quickly done: I just heated the spot with the solder iron and turned both "tubes" by 180. Unfortunately, the holes in the boy are not equally spaced, therefore I had to enlarge the holes from the heater core. When the model will be assembled, nobody will see it, but I was not pleased. How can I correct that without doing the part again? Well, a thin "cover" over the flange would do the trick.

    I have to confess that when I drilled the holes in the body, both sides were done exactly the same because I used a template. When I drilled the flanges from the heater cores, I remembered that I had a template, but did not found it in my mess. The holes were drilled as well as I could, but I had to correct almost every holes. As I found later that template, it was the opportunity to correct both sides. I'm feeling much better now!



    The next task was to add the small handle at the inner base of the LH rear lamp bezel. This handle is needed to swing the rear lamp to open fuel tank.



    As I was at that lamp, it was time to add the spring to keep it closed. I had to make 2 attachment points for the spring, did a spring with a 0.1 mm wire (0.004") and installed it. The most difficult part was to makes both "eyes" at each and of the spring and to insert them into the attachment points, but it works fine!




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1321

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