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    1. Kit: Roger Zimmermann, by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jun 2019 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  (17 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 25
      Started: 05-17-12 Build Revisions: Never  
      Not Supported Scratch Built

      As stated in my presentation, I'm doing since 2 years a Continental Mark II, scale 1:12. Presently, I'm doing the floor; the trunk floor is ready. The next step is going towards the front by doing the floor under the rear seat. To spare metal and unnecessary reworks, I did first a model with cardboard. Now, it will be easier to cut the brass at the proper place.


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  1. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    After the windshield wiper, I'm doing another futile part at this stage: the power brake assembly.



    It's less complicated than the wiper motor because it's larger! The picture is showing the part which is not yet finished.

    In June 2010, I could take some measures on a Mark II located in Switzerland. In fact, it was disappointing as the man has many cars (too much for one life) in various stages of repairs. I doubt that only one could be driven.

    Anyway, the 2 afternoons spent with a pencil, camera and paper will let me busy for the next few months.

    The first part I wanted to measure was a wheel center. Finally, the owner of the parts and cars found one wheel which was not installed on a car...

    Doing the wheel center on a lathe is not that complicated, it makes just a lot of brass chips!

    There are some details which cannot be done on the lathe: the stamped reinforcements near the studs' holes. How to reproduce that?



    Well, I prepared 5 small pieces of flat brass for each wheel, bored each small part,



    and temporary glued them in place on the wheel center, bored the wheel center to be able to put a small pin of 0.5 mm.



    After removing/cleaning the contact glue, I could soft solder the small parts on the wheel center. The pins have the only task to keep the small parts in place during the soldering. Then I cleaned the excess solder.



    The centers are not yet completed, the reinforcements need some more work to be acceptable.

    The last picture is showing 3 centers; only two more to do!



    Finally, all 5 wheels are ready; the centers are soft soldered to the rims. They are still unpainted as it would be premature to paint them now.



    I'm still busy with the white wall: on the pictures only one is OK, the other 2 white inserts are retracting and a gap is visible between the black and white parts.

    I let cure Continental Mark II the good one for 3 weeks and installed it; after 2 or 3 weeks I then will see if a longer curing Continental Mark II time prevents the white silicone to shrink when in contact with the black silicone. If not, I will have to choose another product.

    What next? Well, the wheelcovers are waiting! I still don't know how I will do the 40 ribs or vanes per wheelcover; a solution will certainly come in time. Anyway, it will be time consuming.

    


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2102

  2. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by markus68 View Post
    Really great. So much work to do. Markus
    Thanks Markus! Now, you can understand why it took so many years to get completed!


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2103

  3. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    During my Summer vacation, I studied how I could do the vanes or fins for the wheelcovers. As I had a lot to do after my return, I could not try my plan immediately. I dit it this morning and created the prototype of the vanes. It took about 1 hour to get it; once the set-up is done, it will be quicker, at least I hope so: there are 40 vanes per wheelcover.

    As the result is the way I expected, I ordered 10 feet of 1.5 mm thick brass!





    I ordered also round brass diameter 40 mm to do the dies for the "dishes". I still don't know if I will do the wheelcovers in one piece or if I will be forced to do the center as one piece and the outside diameter as another part, soft soldered together. With steel dies and a strong press there would be no problem; however, I can only work with brass and if ripples are formed during the process, they will damage the dies if too much pressure is applied, without eliminating the ripples as I learned when doing the wheelcovers for the Avanti.

    The brass needed for the wheelcover will be available next week. In between, I finished the wiper motor; the mounting plate was still missing. Thanks to the various dimensions I took from a real car, I could complete the motor.



    On the picture, it's amazing to see the dirt on the part; it will surely be cleaned before painting!

    Total length is about 1".


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2104

  4. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    While I was waiting for the brass to turn the forms for the wheelcovers, I decided to begin another pair of interesting parts: the valve covers. For those who don't know how is looking a Mark II valve cover, the next picture is showing a dirty real one.



    How to do that? An aluminum casting Continental Mark II like the original parts? Unfortunately, I'm unable to cast something except silicone rubber...

    I imagined two ways. The first one was to do a valve cover with a sheet of brass, then cut grooves to insert thin brass pieces to form the fins or ridges. Unfortunately, I had no tool of the proper shape for that task. Therefore, I had to turn to the second solution:

    I cut 31 pieces of .8 mm brass with a hole in the middle to fix them during the rework.



    Then after some hours of filing with rather high temperature (should be a winter job), I got the definitive profile of the cover.



    After that, I cut 32 thinner Continental Mark II pieces of brass, again with a hole in the middle and assembled one thin part with a larger one, then a thinner Continental Mark II one, and so on, like a sandwich.



    The shape was done again with a file (due to the odd shape, machining is not a solution) and then the assembly was silver soldered.



    The next step will be to finish the shape to the correct dimension and silver solder the assembly to the base.

    Some time later, I silver soldered the upper part with the base. The base is much too long; the ends will be trimmed when that end caps are soft soldered in place.



    July 20, 2010, I finished both stars going on the valve covers. As you may imagine, the most time spent was to do the 4 holes into the star. Both pieces were soft soldered together; the irregularities on one are to be found on the other.

    Before to solder them on the valve cover, I will attempt to improve them a little bit. On the other side, I have not to forget that the parts seen on a computer screen are X times larger than reality, rendering the irregularities more obvious.



    It took a long time to mill the recess for the emblem, but at least I was more or less satisfied. I corrected a little bit the star; not too much as the danger is more to harm as to do good.
    I then soft welded the star on the cover. Unfortunately, it was offset by 0.1 or .2 mm. Maybe the next one will be better (but usually worse)!

    I noticed also that the star on the valve cover is not symmetrical; it is in line with the attaching bolts. I had to shorten a little bit (.2 mm) one leg of the star to be more or less in line with the original design.



    To finish the covers, I have to do the end caps and solder them to the main body.

    The first valve cover is ready. Before I don't remember how I did it, I will begin the second one! Fortunately, some items are ready and waiting to be used.





    The second valve cover is progressing slowly; I did a measure mistake by drilling the holes at each end too near from one side. Fortunately brass is a wonderful material and I could rescue the part by silver soldering a plug and drilling again. Oh! the error was not significant: 0.4 mm (0.016") but at this scale is almost catastrophic!

    The second valve cover is ready. I'm glad it's over, I would not do a third one at any price!

    Which is the best one? Both have imperfections; all in all, I would say the first one is a little bit better than the second one.



    It's now time to have a look at the wheelcovers...


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2105

  5. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Now that the valve covers are done, I'm beginning other covers: the wheelcovers. The cover itself will be done in 2 pieces: a small one, like a cheap hubcap and then the outer ring. Both will be soft soldered together.

    However, I have to do first the forms to press the brass. Here are the first step for the hubcap. One picture is showing the form almost ready, the form is ready on the second picture. The next step will be to do the negative form, also in brass.





    Now, it's the turn of the female form. It's the most difficult part of the tooling as it's almost impossible to measure and use "normal" tools. Most of the job is done with a hand held tool like shown on the picture. Of course, the tool is held with both hands (and with the minimal turning speed), but I my third hand Continental Mark II was not available to held the camera!



    The part is far from finished…

    I spent almost the whole afternoon to do the female form. When I had the impression I cannot improve it any more, I did a test with a small band of brass to see if the inside profile was more or less like the outer profile...I saw on the test part that a small rework was necessary, which was done the next morning.

    Then, the great moment: how will the brass do between both parts? Well, I'm satisfied with the results. And I'm happy about my decision to do the dish in two part: on the picture below, you can see the first hubcap; the metal on the outside diameter is full of wrinkles. If I had a form for the whole wheelcover, I would have the same wrinkles. As my dies are brass, the wrinkles would imprint the brass, rendering the dies useless as well as the covers.



    Now, I can do the outside tooling...


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2106

  6. Richard Bartrop's Avatar Active Member
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    I ran into the same issue with the white rubber when I made a set of white tires for a Pyro Mercer kit. I used one of the kit tires as a master, but where the kit tires with almost too tight for the wheels, the tires I cast were too loose. The silicone I used was Dow Corning Silastic J. Is it something about how it sets?

    Continental Mark II-mercerrearthreequarters-jpg
    QUOTE QUOTE #2107

  7. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    On the Toronado model, I used the Dow Corning Sylgard. It's a 2 components product: a white liquid and a black liquid mixed 1:1 Continental Mark II . I did not notice any dimension change but usually chemical products have a dimension variation when they are cured.
    Before I did the tires for the Mark II, I searched for a new pack of that material and when I saw the price of it, I searched for an alternative.
    I also did an interesting discover about the white wall: those which retracted too much were put on side (but not destroyed) and with the time, they took their original dimension! I'm sure the direct contact between the white product I used and the translucide one has an effect on the white material. Indeed the solution would have been to buy a white paste to mix with the translucide silicone; I just did differently as you will see later.


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2108

  8. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Before I'm doing a new tool for the small hubcap (the center is not like it should), I did the dies for the outside parts. It went better than the forms for the hubcaps; it's simpler. This morning, I did the first sample with mixed results. However, after some rework, the form is acceptable.



    The outer part is a little bit thicker: 0.3mm. To do the rework, I cemented it with a contact cement on one of the dies. With this unorthodox method, I could turn the outside and inside diameter as well as eliminate a small wrinkle.

    The last picture is showing the 2 parts pre-assembled. As more finish work is needed on both parts, it was just for fun.



    As the first try went well, I'm doing now the full serie of outer wheelcovers. As the picture is showing it, I have some plain sheet brass discs ready to be "stamped". On the left (and above), one prepared part; the hole in the middle prevents too much stress on the brass. In the middle, a "fresh" pressed brass part; you can see that the hole went larger. On the right, an almost finished part.




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2109

  9. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The next day, I could assemble the first wheelcover with soft solder. The other ones are in the pipeline, they will probably be in the same shape at the end of the week.
    My estimate is that I'm at the middle of the wheelcover's saga. The fins will be an heavy task. I have various ideas how to do them and how to install them on the dish (no, not with screws!); nothing is definitive right now.




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2110

  10. markus68's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Extraordinary charges. Great. Markus
    QUOTE QUOTE #2111

  11. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Thanks Markus! Your model is not bad either!

    While I was at the wheelcovers, I got the news that I will have another Hydramatic transmission to repair, therefore I rushed a little bit and just finished the last assembly. You may ask if I'm doing a 6-wheeler? No, no, but it's always nice to have spares. Not a single wheelcover is so far perfect, I will have some choice to do when the car is ready.



    And, what next? The fins? No, not yet: before I can start that last task, I have to do a device to assemble the covers on the wheels. Even by speaking politely with the wheelcovers, they will not jump at the wheels…

    Saturday, I got a 1958 Hydramatic to overhaul. Tomorrow, another '58 Hydramatic is coming for an overhaul; it will be the 5th Hydramatic transmission I'm overhauling this year 2010! Plus an engine from a 1960 Cad which need some work. All these parallel activities are distracting me from the wheelcovers.

    Finally, I found a reasonable solution for the fins. I will do slots on the wheelcovers; the fins will have a tail which will enter the slots. This method will simplify the assembly but will add some work to manufacture the fins; there is no free lunch as somebody said!

    After trying to mill the slots on a test wheelcover, I realized that I needed better tools. Fortunately, some weeks ago I had a discussion with a Swiss member of our Cadillac Club. It happens that this man has a factory for dental tools. I could order from him some cutting discs covered with diamond.

    This morning, I could do the slots to the first wheelcover. The wheelcover is held with contact cement on a modified die. The whole is installed on a divider tool; fortunately, I have a divider disc with 40 positions!





    The last picture is showing a cover just removed from the form; there are still burrs which will be removed prior to the fins installation.



    Only 5 to go!


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2112

  12. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    After a while, I could finish the base wheelcovers. They are polished, ready to be chromed. Only the fins are missing. Now, I have to begin them…



    It took about 3 hours to do...OK, it's the first one, I had to fabricate a jig and I must improve the milling process to have less manual work after the milling. I expected to have no more than 5 minutes to do one fin; I can forget this optimistic value.



    "Only" 239 to go! (there are 40 fins per wheelcover)

    For what purpose are the numerous bits in the picture?



    No idea? It's the material needed to do the fins. Each part is good for 8 fins; they will be machined, cut, machined again until they become a tiny fin. I will show you later all what's needed to do those fins.

    Now the fun will begin!


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2113

  13. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    2 weeks of vacation in September2010 = 3 weeks of inactivity to the model. It's amazing how much paper is coming when you're away!

    Now that the most urgent matters are behind me, I could begin the mass production!

    It begins with the shaving of the stock (necessary due to the lack of precision of my tool) as shown below.



    Then the stock is milled with a dentist tool, giving the section of the fins. The length is good for 8 fins. I cannot do more at once because of the limited length of the vice. I have 30 pieces to work at, giving 240 fins.





    Now that the profile of the stock is done, it's time to cut the bars to the proper length. As you can see on the picture, the cut part is held to avoid some vibrations and prevent its ejection from the cutting tool (and the associated search on the floor!).



    Now, all the parts are ready to further work:



    Later, I began with the mass fabrication of the vanes. It seems that the month October 2010 will be busy with milling!

    This picture is showing the special tool I fabricated to keep the part to be milled at the proper angle.



    The next picture is showing the birth of the tang which will be inserted into the cover.




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2114

  14. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The first picture is showing how I'm milling the sides of the tang. I cannot use the disc used in the last picture from the previous message, because the machine is not precise enough and that milling tool's teeth are not perpendicular to the face. With a small diameter tool, I can better see what's happening.



    Then I'm cutting the vane from the ground material




    This is the end result. The lower brass part is now scrap.



    The vanes are not yet ready: the ends have to be trimmed at an angle.

    When all the parts are ready up to that point, I can trim the ends. After that, each vane is fitted to the wheelcover; this last task showed me that I have to modify a little bit the position of the tab on the next vanes batch.





    After the trimming was done, each vane is sanded and polished. Not an easy task with such small parts, but it can be done.

    Then, the soldering of the vanes can begin!
    


    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2115

  15. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The first wheelcover was finished a late afternoon. Oh boy, what a task! Clearly, I underestimated the time needed for the construction. Each vane needs about 1 hour, from milling the ground shape to the soldering. The wheelcovers of the Toronado and the Avanti were indeed much simpler…







    Some days after, 4 wheelcovers were now ready. Enough for the car, but I still have 2 empty "dishes" requesting their vanes. After the second wheelcover, to mill all those vanes is really boring.



    To polish the vanes, there is just one method: to pinch them between 2 nails and rub them on 3 different sanding Continental Mark II papers: 400, 1200 and finally on a sanding Continental Mark II paper I don't know the grade. I have almost no nails anymore...I'm glad it's over soon!

    A completed wheelcover together with a wheel & tire. The wheels are still unpainted and of course the wheelcover will be chrome plated Continental Mark II .




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #2116

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