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    1. Kit: Roger Zimmermann, by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: Nov 2018 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  (16 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 24
      Started: 05-17-12 Build Revisions: Never  
      Not Supported Scratch Built

      As stated in my presentation, I'm doing since 2 years a Continental Mark II, scale 1:12. Presently, I'm doing the floor; the trunk floor is ready. The next step is going towards the front by doing the floor under the rear seat. To spare metal and unnecessary reworks, I did first a model with cardboard. Now, it will be easier to cut the brass at the proper place.


      Continental Mark II
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  1. happyfreddy's Avatar Active Member
    Name
    freddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    67
    Gratulation Roger very well made !! chapeau
    QUOTE QUOTE #1922

  2. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
    Name
    Roger
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    1,661
    Continental Mark II
    Thanks Freddy!

    Once the wiring was ready, it was time to hide it under the carpet. I don’t have large hands, but working into the model is not especially easy. I had to shorten the LH kick panel at the bottom. Once in place the question was if I could attach it to the body with the 2 foreseen screws? The slot on those screws is not very deep and the position of the screwdriver is very impractical. First, I searched with a tiny drill bit if the foreseen holes would correspond with the attaching brackets at the body. I did not believe it, but they did! Usually, a couple of seconds is needed to tighten those screws if the setting is right; here I had maybe one hour. For 2 screws!





    The next step was the front seat installation. It was already in the model, I saw no difficulties and it would be done rather quickly. Unfortunately, the reality was very different: I had 3 afternoons to install it! The seat is attached with 4 bolts inserted from under the body. They have to go through the carpet into the nuts from the seat rails. When the seat is into the car, the sight is just zero. So, I prepared 4 studs long enough to go through the carpet and the floor; the studs were screwed into the seat tracks. When one was emerging at the underbody, I secured it with a nut, pushing then on the seat to let the remaining go through the holes. Then, I undid the studs one after the other to use the foreseen bolts. I managed to break one bolt, requiring the removal of the seat to remove the broken bit. After a second similar adventure, I realized that the carpet was the culprit because the attaching points are offset, putting too much stress on the bolts. What to do? The removal of the carpet under the track was out of question; I should have removed the whole carpet but the door scuff plates were glued on the body and the carpet in sandwiched between the scuff plates and body. I did 4 spacers and began again the installation. I just saw that with the spacers the studs were now too short. OK, 4 new longer studs are quickly made. With longer studs the pre-installation of the seat should be easier because I could more or less see the holes on the floor, but it was not! One stud had no envy to go where I wanted, even with some persuasion and chosen words. Finally I was stronger and I could install the bolts. Success! Well, not exactly: the seat was lower on one side. Nevertheless, I tried to install the seat motor. It is attached to the floor with 4 nuts. 2 went well, but 2 could not be screwed in most probably because too much paint was on the thread.
    The seat had to come out once again. This time, I checked the distance between the attaching points; it was about 1 mm too narrow, maybe the frame was deformed when I tried to insert the studs. I did the correction which was easy as all was soft soldered. At the same time, I cleaned the threads for the motor.
    New tentative: the studs can now be inserted with ease and the motor is now correctly attached. I had the pleasure to see that the seat was functioning; the seat was at the same “altitude” on both sides, but it was crooked! The seat came out again, but the motor stayed in place. I corrected the tracks to have them square and installed the seat again. Once the connecting rod from the motor was definitively attached to the seat, I could close that chapter!





    Finally, I put the decal Continental Mark II representing the patent plate (Fomoco designation).



    Practically, the main body is ready with the exception of the windshield and back window, plus the associated chromed parts. The next step will be the inserting of the door strap links, if I can do that. It will be similar to catch a fly with closed eyes: the hole for the shaft is barely visible; see the arrow at the last picture. Maybe I will have to plan a long installation time!




    Continental Mark II
    QUOTE QUOTE #1923

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