Continental Mark II

[Roger Zimmermann]

I have paint (takes some time to get dry) but I don't want to buy a dozen ink markers for that!

[MODEL A MODEL]

Hi Roger, I was suggesting the ink markers as they are much thinner than paint, and if you "code" them similar to a resistor color code, a few colors could do the trick. (Black Black Gold, Black Black Black, Black Gold Black, . . . -maybe it IS too much work?) -Don

[Roger Zimmermann]

And get lost because my schematic is with color codes? You are searching difficulties when it's not necessary!
Here are the colors I will need:
Red (no paint needed!)
Red/green
Braun
Braun/white
Yellow
Yellow/black
Yellow/white
Green (no paint needed!)
Green/white
Blue
Blue/white
As I wrote, just a few mm will be painted; the paint thickness at the ends is not important.

[MODEL A MODEL]

Sorry, I misunderstood your needs. please think of me as the over-anxious student. -Don

[happyfreddy]

Roger again a great work !!!

I would use the thin red wires because never a problem of thickness
For "numbering" the wires perhaps an idea I often use:
You only need black color for marking. Marking always at both ends ......
Use "fine" waterproof markers like " STABILO " or " EDDING "
Just mark for the first wire NO RING
For the second wire simply ONE ring
For the third wire simply TWO rings .. etc

If more than 5 wires
for the sixt wire ONE THICK RING plus ONE small ring
for the 7th wire ONE THICK RING plus TWO small rings etc

With that method You need small space for numbering the wires

It´s only a idea .......

[Roger Zimmermann]

Don't forget that the wires soldered at the main door's switch are already color coded. The red wires freshly introduced in the door's chanel must match the ones at the switch, therefore, a change of the system would create more problems.
The wires from the quarter windows switches as well as the wires from the RH door are also color coded. All that is already documented.
Making rings on a wire is easy when the wire is free: you can stretch between 2 fixed points and let it turn and do the ring by just touching the wire. Try that when they are in the door...
You see, when I'm doing something, most of the time it has a reason behind. It happens too that my thinking is completely wrong!
Anyway, thank you for the ideas you suggested, I appreciate the interactive approach!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The doors are equipped with a link to hold the door open; these parts are done since a very long time. I noticed this morning that they must be installed BEFORE the vent window frame. Therefore, I will have to remove the frame from the RH door…
I checked also how bad the wiring from the LH door will twist by opening/closing the door. For that, I had to install one more time the LH door. I’m glad that I just have to insert 2 pins and not unscrew/screw the 8 bolts attaching the hinges to the body! Once installed, surprise, surprise! The 11 wires are twisting on their own axis without effort or binding; a good point for the Ford engineering. I like those surprises!

[VC LOCOMOBILE]

this build never ceases to AMAZE, still Outstanding Roger- I saw a Continental Convertible today at a car show and thought of you, the car looked nice untill the owner put the top up and then I wondered-maybe Lincoln did not make a MkII Convertible. I will post an image here in a minute

[VC LOCOMOBILE]

seen today at a car show in Northern California.

[Richard Bartrop]

From what I recall, Derham made exactly one Mk II convertible as a prototype. I did a little looking, and according to this, six more were made in the 90s https://notoriousluxury.com/2015/02/...t-convertible/

[Roger Zimmermann]

If you Google Barry Wolk, he has also a '56 Continental convertible, modified in 1956 by Hess & Eisenhardt due to a car with a damaged roof.
In the Mark II forum, there is one or two members who are in the process to modify a Mark II. It seems that like my own model, this is a process which takes time!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yesterday, I attached permanently the headliner to the body, this is the first trim part installed. I saw that my sequence to assemble the side/front inner moldings and sail panels is not the way it should: I must first install the sail panels and then the side moldings. Makes the whole assembly more difficult. In between, I put the bulbs into the tail lamp assemblies; as I expected, the LH tail light gave me trouble because all the tries I did were without the paint and without wiring, what a difference! The small spring to keep the tail lamp open or closed is way too weak; I’m not doing a stronger one, because the space is so tight. Anyway, the LH lamp is almost perfectly closed… with some persuasion. As you can see from some pictures, the electrical wires for the lamps are now in the way until the circuit can be completed.
The headlamps were installed too, as well as some accessories on the RH front wheelhouse.
The underbody coating is done too; it’s a mix between some underbody coating from Dupli-Color and black paint sprayed with low pressure to get some texture. Thanks Don for the idea! The whole is not perfect, it will be hardly seen with all the hardware from the frame and exhaust.

[markus68]

Looks great Roger. I love your modelcar. Markus

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Markus! Now, here are the next difficulties by installing the package tray (Hutablage): the fine arrangement I had during the construction is compromised by paint, cloth and other minor annoyances...

[happyfreddy]

It´s simply great work !! Sometimes You can think it´s no scale model when I see last posting pics
Congratilations !!