Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza Muletto

[Bender_13]

Next I got to mean new brass radiator of CNC milling.

The original Pocher looks as follows out.





The blank after CNC milling.





I sawed off and sanded the edges. Additionally I already bored all holes.




With the radiator for my “Fiat F2” I had the problem that its weight for the plastic body was already somewhat too heavy.
Thus I let mill with the current internal part out.

Otherwise I will exactly the same develop the radiator like from the Fiat the F2.

By the lattices those in the back and in front one will be attached by the cooling fins did not fall sees, but I would copy it nevertheless gladly as original as possible.


Today I made times an attempt, with 0,15mm aluminum sheet metal for the cooling fins from an aluminum grill bowl.

In addition I cut and folded an aluminum strip following with shears.

I pressed together and on the suitable width course-filed the aluminum accordion in the vice.


And into the radiator fit in.




With the result I am actually content quite, also because one did not fall after the installation of the brass lattice any longer of it sees.



Additionally the radiator is blocked later still in the body.


The individual parts are now all prepared. I decided nevertheless now for a finer screen, so that one sees more from that aluminum cooling fins.


For the details I oriented myself at the following original pictures.





With this picture that is been noticeable to me the carrier under the radiator contrary to the pounding he plastic part of holes has.


Thus had to be still changed.


And now the installed individual parts.




I screwed the carrier on already times. It is however not yet painted.




Now is the engine at the row.
I begin with the attachments on the right side.

Like that the parts are to out-look once if it are finished.


The plastic parts of Pocher I will use mostly, they are only cleaned, filled and supplemented by one or another detail.
The part on the right side makes the beginning.


And in such a way see the Pocher divide from the kit.


I've leveled out the intake tube and the inside reamed.



Now all details are supplemental. The lattice is also new.







As soon as a few individual parts together came will I mean again built spray kabiene out to try.
This is substantially smaller with 40cm x 30cm x 30cm than the old person and does not take was omitted not in such a way place. I will only develop the large one for the framework and the body.


I inserted a filter in front.


And to the exhaust I will in the back simply mean vacuum cleaners to attach.







Next I was occupied with the compressor.

Parts from the kit.

Again, I've leveled out the plastic parts, cleaned and brass screws provided.

Here the completely installed, painted and aged construction unit.








Next I worry about the water pump.
The parts of Pocher do not correspond to the original, then I must correct this next.





The water pump is finished.


Painted and aged: (the hose clamps are only missing)


To the test I put both construction units times on (yet do not manufacture) the engine mount.


I already made a few changes at the right part of the engine mount, then I had e.g. the suspension for the compressor saw off, extend and prime. It was nearly 2mm too briefly.


The larger problem at the engine becomes however probably a damage at both engine mount halves. I think the damage already with Pocher or in the case of transport happened.

But I get also still.


The today's plastic parts of Pocher.


With the first part I am not reliably whether it the generator am?
But first times to the original.


Now my more again from brass and to the comparison the part of Pocher.


With all parts I try equal the connections for the cables with to attach, the electrical connection plan of the genuine Alfa Romeo helps me.


With the horn I only replaced plastic part by brass. Everything soldered and afterwards polishes.


With a first passport sample me been noticeable that is the horn to the intended place does not fit. On none of my original photos I could discover the horn. Now am I to superior whether I her to omit completely am or whether I change the position later, in order to insert her straight?


Or is the part the generator?


To the conclusion I put the suitable two parts in times to the sample.

[Bender_13]

(Original Alfa Romeo)

The top is today the last individual part, before I assemble the engine mount.
The brass parts I again made all, since they were with the pounding building set wrongly or simply missing.






To the conclusion again all individual parts for the engine mount.
The next days I will stick everything, will prime and will paint. Then I can fasten all attachments.

The internal construction units (like e.g.: ) I will not insert crankshaft, cylinder, gear wheels etc., since I represent the engine closed and one would therefore see later nothing more of it.

Additionally I will attach the first transfer pictures on the engine (vehicle identification plates etc.)

The left stickers are from Pocher and from a very bad quality. I purchased the right additionally in the Internet.



The engine mount was now stuck together, priming, painted and aged.
Subsequently, I attached all construction units prepared before.












Around the engine completely to place the still following parts are missing:

Then I will attach also the first hoses and cables.



The engine is finished!

I attached still the last individual parts and the lines now. I stuck on the radiator also times.
The complete building group has a length of 150mm, width of 100mm and a height of 105mm.























Now is the transmission at the row.

The individual parts from the kit:


The moreover one is used a small corrode-hurry. I purchased, with the price am worthwhile myself the corroding hurry additionally the making not.


As the first I made the pedals new.


Raw material for this was a sheet metal into which I with an embossing a sample had pressed in.


I likewise again built the levers.


Sometimes I ask which the Pocher with the kit had imagined. The intended arrangement of the levers for brake, gas and clutch is wrong.

Levers A and C have the correct distance to the transmission. The threaded rod 1 and their spacer for lever B are too long. Thus I shortened the case with X and shortened the threaded rod 1 with Y.
And like that it is correct.


And now the finished construction unit.














Today times a small view into the future.
The hood is for a long time not still in turn, but I nevertheless already was in the search for the hinges for the hood.
I had by one year, with my Fiat F2, the problem for the hood by Pocher only one hinge am intended already and with the genuine old timer three am attached.
And I have still no shop found, with which one is enough in such a way, small hinge to buy can.

Thus I have me decided it to build.

From the raw material to the finished hinge:

(From left to right)
1. The 0,5mm thick sheet metal-rigid is from canneded copper sheet (160mm x 12mm).
2. I milled out the “teeth”.
3. The edges had I easily upward bending, so that they slide cleanly in the device by the radius.
4. Finished curved (diameters outside 1,9mm)
5. I connected the two individual parts with a 0,8mm wire.

The device:

On the left of the mobile cheek (the stage I have milled). On the right of the firm cheek (the profile in this I left wire eroding).


Left: Screws, 2 dowel pins as guidance and on the right of the baseplate.


The installed individual parts.


I inserted and in the vice to both brooks together will squeeze now the curved easily still above metal strip.


To the conclusion once again the finished hinge from the rear and in front.


So, a problem less.



Now the steering gear is finished.

Those pound-gives:


In the next picture one sees quite well how much expenditure/work in so a small part puts.

The primed and done over again above pound-give, down the additionally made construction units.

Installed, paints and aged.




Inserted.

[Bender_13]

The parts approximately around the instrument panel of Pocher:


And my additional corroding hurry:


Actually the instrument panel was the next building group which I completely to place wanted.
But I have with a first passport sample, with divide the body and the framework determined, which is present with the plastic parts partial enormous gap dimensions. In addition the form and the structure of the armature bed in no wise the original correspond.
Thus I must stick the framework and the body together parallel to the cockpit, prime and sand .

First however times to a further error with a plastic part:

The bracings in the sheet metal are represented as bulges and the surface are not even here.
The surface verse lease ELT and the correct slots free-handle clean-milled.
Like that it is correct:


The individual parts for the body:


And for the framework:


Where the parts of the body to collide I must do it over again.
(In the framework I have rivets drilled out in already correct-prove screws to belong. These will then screw in after painting.)


Here one sees the “enormous” gap about which I still worrying must.





Today my new gas cap makes the beginning.

I bent, into shape-filed the new from 0,5mm Messingblech, bent and gloss-canneded that hinge. (To the comparison, on the top right the turned gas cap of Pocher.)

And in such a way it looks to the body out.


Next that was instrument panel - carriers at the row. I bent that from a brass l-section and soldered the angles on.




The body had leveled out and I sanded to a smooth transition of the individual parts to achieve. The position rivets had to be also changed, therefore I had removed and to the correct places of holes had bored all. Into these I will bond before painting, rivets from brass.








As is the case for so many construction units of Pocher also the instrument panel is not correct.
In the original looks in such a way:



Above plastic part of Pocher.
In the center the identically constructed corrode-hurry from the accessory trade.
And down the correct from 0,5mm brass sheet. I arranged the holes for the armatures “correctly”.

In the next picture can you recognize as badly pound-give fits.


The new instrument panel fits there nevertheless already much better.




Now I finish the instrument panel.

First times the ignition key to the left of Pocher, and the new key federation from corroding hurrying.
I made smaller and Photo paper printed, cut out and both sides glued the Alfa Romeo on badge on the supporter.


The moreover one on the right side instrument panel still another button to pull and press were attached (these across the push pull cable at the steering bar across the steering gear to the carburetor leads connected).
And still another small lever (this with a linkage with the lever at the steering gear one connects).


And still the owner for the steering bar.


The armatures. (The transfer pictures and the pointers are from the corroding express set.)


To the conclusion the finished construction unit.




Today I begin times with a small Quiz question.
What isn't correct in the following picture?



To the assistance times a picture of the original.



And the error to her found?



The correct answer lasts: The windshield and their mounting plate of Pocher do not correspond to the original. (The disk is too narrow, the position is correct also not and for mounting plate says I only nothing at all.) Who would have thought that.
Fortunately it does not give Pocher the company any longer, otherwise I would have a genuinly bad conscience. I do not believe I leave a good hair at the kit, up to now have I not one part like that left like it was not even completely replaced actually or.


Now however back to the building report.
With the corroding hurrying for the lattice before the radiator also which participate for the window pane retainer.

But to really begin I could do also nothing with those. Am I to stick or solder the individual parts of the mounting plate?

I decided for the following alternative:

I soldered the mounting plate together from a brass channel. The disk is from genuine glass.

And in such a way the disk on the body looks out.




Additionally I already built the file for e.g. a map, papers, etc. (This is attached later left inside before the seat. See original picture at the beginning this building report.)




Today the engine mount was built into the painted and easily aged framework.













The leaf springs.
The Pocherfedern from plastics.


I made the new from 0,7mm spring plate.


Now the individual sheets were screwed together to the spring rod.


The finished packages for the front axle…


… and the rear axle.


And in such a way the whole looks inserted out.







The front axle.


Front axle from the kit.

At the axle some changes were made and the linkage are also completely revised (mounting plates and joints).








The Alfa has even brake shoes in the drum brakes, which operate theoretically also with the brake function.


However one sees of it nothing more if the brake drum is closed.


Actually I wanted the pounding he version of the linkage maintained, which was problem however by the rigid linkage of the brake, hits/does not pivot the wheels any longer was possible.

With the original the mechanism looks for braking so out:


And now my converted version. All parts were painted already and aged and are ready for the installation into the body.



Now the wheel axles can be moved also again.

As next the absorbers for the front axle were to. First I soldered a small lever on to the ball screw as with the original.


And here the finished absorbers:

And here the next problem shows up equal. That pack is too thick! In the condition it corresponds not to the original and does not fit after a first sample so also to the intended place at the car.
There I must thus also still which to be broken in be able.

[Bender_13]

First times the converted absorbers. This is now only half so thick. I replaced the pounding he plastic disks by brass turned parts.


And now the finished front axle. The wheels I screwed on already times, these must be however still aged.



















It continues to go today with the rear axle.

Parts from the kit.


Also the brake linkage for the rear axle was completely revised. (Down Pocher, above my two converted.)

To the test before painting everything was once installed.




And now paints and inserted.













And to the conclusion times generally speaking.






I changed the fall still on approx. 3°.
I hope one can that on the pictures recognize.









I was already also been noticeable which it looked a little extreme. Now it would have to correspond rather to the original.


In front on the radiator the following Alfa emblem is attached.


The question was the picture makes smaller now, expressions and cuts out? Or the coined/shaped pounding he brass plate paint?
Under a magnifying glass and with a fine brush I angemalt only the 8mm small sign.

I will use the sign and will do without the expression.




Now I begin with the brake light. In the pounding building set this lamp is not intended. In my photos of the original this is always present (partly even 2 pieces).
Now do I ask the question whether the brake light only late regulation became or whether this already gave it at the Alfa in the year 1931?


I soldered the individual parts from brass.


I made the “glass” from transparent plastic.

In addition I warmed up and over the brass cover moved it with a lighter. Like that the glass is easily curved.
With a drilling tool I cut it out then and angemalt in the end from the rear red.



Next the bar for starting the engine. Above the crank of Pocher, down my new one plus mounting plate.
The crank was with the bar connecting separates not firmly for starting was only attached. Therefore I omitted the crank.



With the “radiator figure” (thermometers to read off the coolant temperature) I exchanged plastic part (left) of Pocher against a small round windowpane and additional transfer pictures.
Around the glass tube of the thermometer to it-place I on both sides of the glass the transfer pictures within the range glass tubes cut out, so which one can now through-look.



With the lining for the radiator I had the following problem:

Either the 90° angle is correct, then however the front position is wrong.


Or it is correct in front and the angles is wrong.

Thus the part had to be cut to form, partly again developed, into shape-filed and sanded verse lease fill in.
And here the result:






As first times the new lattice for the radiator covering .

On the left of of Pocher, in the center corrode-hurry (both are unfortunately unsuitable, there the lining by the change became somewhat broader) and on the right of my new lattice with up-sprayed 2.

Next the body screws with drilling.

For the body screws I turned off with M1 brass screws the hexagonal on a diameter of 1,2mm and afterwards into the head a 0,5mm hole clean-bored (I hope one can that on the picture recognize).

But I had built a small device for my drill press again.


By the M4 screw on the back can be adjusted the depth and locked with the mother. So which one can always push the screws in front to the attack and thus the cross hole (0,5mm) is with all screws in the same place.




Now all individual parts of the lining are installed. The rotated wire is to probably prevent the screws by vibrations while driving to separate.






And now the whole is installed on the vehicle.








Today it concerns the floor plate.
Pocher introduced itself in such a way.


Do not need to mention with pound-give nothing to begin truely.
Thus I built a new floor plate from evergreen plates.

I should myself have looked at only before times my model photos, because I oriented myself too much with the new part at the pounding he version.
Actually that would have to out-look rather in such a way:


The floor plate may not waiters at the framework rest upon, but would have so approx. 6 mm be below attached.
Thus however a further problem, the “oil cooler results down at the sheet metal is attached. Thus nearly at the ground if I would sharpen the floor plate 6mm more deeply attach.


But in a photo I have seen which it above am not round separate flat.


Thus I shortened the radiator simply above around 6mm.


Besides the cover for the radiator of Pocher (left) is perfectly oversized. On the right of my more again.


My 2nd attempt is now painted and inserted. With the result I am now genuinly content.






The two oil lines to the engine already are to.

[Bender_13]

After I painted and easily aged the other day the body, I could cultivate all preparatory parts now. I up-sprayed the 2 with a template.













Additionally I inserted still the wiring harness under the body. This was not intended of Pocher.







It cost me some nerves, but the body sits now on the framework.
Even if the brake light is temporally not completely correct, I cultivated it times with.


























Now I show you mean new exhaust.

First times pound-give, actually wanted I that to use, but the pipe is too thick and the elbow unions fits not at the body past.


Thus had to be soldered more again from brass. The steel borders serve as spacers and attack, so that when soldering nothing slips.


The result of the first soldering step.


Next advantages of the steel borders is, which is derived the warmth behind the current soldered connection and not up to the first soldered connection penetrates.




And now paints, aged and inserted.













Now I begin with the hood.

First times the parts of Pocher, since these are too thick and too short must I also again make.


As the first I removed the exact form in the model, by fitting in and with Scotch tape fixing narrow strips from pasteboard gradually.
I cut the result out in-scanned, the individual wings drawn and.

The templates were glued on afterwards 0,3mm Messingblech. Now they can be cut out cleanly.


The next problem truely: How do I bend the many Sicken of different lengths into the sheet metal?
But I built myself again a small device. Consisting of a variable stamp and a Matritze.

The stamp consists of individual sheet metals and is pinned and bolted. So I can build myself up the stamp depending upon broad of the Sicken.


To the test I sawed small slots into a remaining piece brass sheet with a circular saw blade. Here I times to test whether my plan am functioned.



Now I could press the stamp with a rubber hammer on the Matritze.


I love it if a plan functioned!
The result would have to be now still sanded, but one can see already it functioned.




Now I can make myself to the wings of the engine property. As soon as they are finished, I reset pictures.



Before I with the hood continue have I times fast the tension adjusters/catches made by its spring tension the hood down to hold.
Thus I know these individual parts with build for the hood equal to also insert.
Thus the tension adjusters in the original look out:


Thus the parts from Pocher look.

unfortunately without clamping function.

I wanted to build it however fully functionally.
Here the new individual parts from brass:

The feather/spring in the cylinder holds later the hood tension.
And the remainder:


Now the finished tension adjusters.

The Gleanzverzinnen became very uneven unfortunately times again. But so I do not have to age it any longer.



I coined/shaped the Sicken now into the hood parts.












Now I bent the upper two wings of the hood suitably.

[Bender_13]

Now I made myself times to soldering the hood parts.




And now the result:
















Now I show you the last missing individual part for the hood.

It is the air intake snorkel for transmission ventilation.
In the original:


Assistance of a small device I was impressed from brass sheet of two parts.


After I had into shape-filed the two halves it was soldered together. To the conclusion still another pipe was soldered on.


And in such a way it looks on the hood out.







The engine property is with the original made of aluminum sheet metal and only on the exterior knows painted. Therefore I gloss-canneded it first.
(This times functioned that gloss tin again merge-free and the brass sheet the copper hinges and the soldered connections to look evenly and cleanly out. Contrary to the tension adjusters for the hood two weeks ago ago, there it had not really functioned.)

Next I masked the insides with tape and painted the outside surfaces.

Now I must the color however only times 2 - 3 days dries to leave, in the meantime I about the pressure control valve on the tank and the wheel bolts worried.


The left is the relief valve, and over right connection the tank before starting under pressure could be set over a tire pump at the instrument panel, so that the gasoline was pressed by the lines to the engine. After the engine then only once ran took over this task a pump.


Now my new wheel bolts.

First I turned and into shape-filed the 4 blanks from brass following.

The difference to do not pound-give right is large, but the new please me around some better.






Also with the wheel nuts that functioned gloss tin also merge-free.





My Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza “Muletto” is creative is finished.

Mass: lengthens: 47cm, spreads: 23cm, height: 16cm
Work time: approx. 700 hours

The hood aged painted, and inserted.


Much fun with the pictures!


























I hope to pursue it had with the building report exactly the same the much fun, as I when building.

I hope my English was not too bad and you can read it.



Jens

[RonOC]

Jens,

Absolutely amazing!

RonO

[DominiqueBeerts]

Thank you so much for sharing this, Jens.
This is very good information for all of us.

[hot ford coupe]

I'm totally blown away to smitherines. This is basically what I'm doing to the deuce kit but this one shows the total way home. You're definitely der Baumeister, Jens. This, to me is like the best instruction set I could ever come across. I'm so glad you found this site and I'm so glad that you so generously share your knowledge. Once I finish my current model, I have plans to build another hot rod, a coupe this time with much more scratchbuilding and additional parts. I'm hoping to follow your lead and once again, set the bar higher and higher for myself.

[MODEL A MODEL]

Thank you for sharing your build!

-Don

[ritual19]

Absolutely amazing!

[ThierryD86]

Utterly amazing job !

[Pocherphile]

So very impressive.
Rick

[doneykebab]

The absolute best ... if i can do just 10% of this detailing on my 1/12 8C ... i will be happy ... this is truly amazing
Ian