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The Builder
About Builder
Builder Last Online: Nov 2022
Model Scale: 1/8
Rating: 
(24 votes - 4.71 average)
Thanks: 0
(24 votes - 4.71 average)
Thanks: 0
Started: 02-15-09
Build Revisions: Never
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This build will be intended to aquaint those interested in working with brass. I will also keep it simple so as no sophisticated equipment is required. Everything will be hand built with hand tools. So of course if you have equipment you can build quicker. This will be a 1/8th scale Model T racer when completed. I have a picture posted in another thread. And I will find tune as I post.
Here is getting started by cutting out the profile of the side rails. You need real good light to cut down the scribe line. Once cut out the side rail may have some curl from cutting, very carefully with just your fingers form it back to flat slowly and carefully. The rails were layed out on 1" x 12" x.016" brass sheet. The angles were 3/16" x 36" x.016". When all soldered together the side walls will be 1/32" thick with the return flanges being .016. Working with brass is like playing chess; you have to plan ahead right down to buying your materials. Build the part in you head first step by step, then buy what you need, materials, tools etc.
Here is soldering the side rails to top angles. The secret to soldering is letting your iron get real hot
, touch it to the solder end to gather a puddle on the iron and then to the joint. Remember solder will always flow to heat and since it is liquid is subject to the laws of gravity.
I apply the liquid flux with a paint brush to the entire joint before soldering. The tempurature is correct when the solder flows freely into the joint. The spring clamps also provide handles to hold the piece while soldering.
Here is a closeup of the above picture.
Here is a shot of adding the rail extension since stock sheet was too short. Needed another 11/16". Once finished up the joint is barely visible and I put this to the rear of the chassis where it will be less obvious anyway.
Here is how to file the bottom angle to fit the side rail. Double sided carpet tape works great to hold small pieces. I would recommend buying a steel block if you do not have one. I think MicroMark offers one. Also handy to hammer some parts back to flat. Be careful to slowly remove the part from the tape so as not to bend or distort the piece. The tape adhesive works well in holding it in place.
Here is the bottom angle cut and filed to fit. Working with brass requires patience and a good assortment of files.
Here is how to remove excess solder. Scrape
, file,
sand
and polish. Note: Blades are stamped out as a result one edge is rounded down while the other has a sharp edge. Use the sharp edge to
scrape
. You can easilly tell the difference when you try to
scrape
.
Here is the finished left rail.
Now to finish up the right side. Then the next installment will be the crossmenbers.
Please feel free to post questions, and there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Ken
Here is getting started by cutting out the profile of the side rails. You need real good light to cut down the scribe line. Once cut out the side rail may have some curl from cutting, very carefully with just your fingers form it back to flat slowly and carefully. The rails were layed out on 1" x 12" x.016" brass sheet. The angles were 3/16" x 36" x.016". When all soldered together the side walls will be 1/32" thick with the return flanges being .016. Working with brass is like playing chess; you have to plan ahead right down to buying your materials. Build the part in you head first step by step, then buy what you need, materials, tools etc.
Here is soldering the side rails to top angles. The secret to soldering is letting your iron get real hot
, touch it to the solder end to gather a puddle on the iron and then to the joint. Remember solder will always flow to heat and since it is liquid is subject to the laws of gravity.I apply the liquid flux with a paint brush to the entire joint before soldering. The tempurature is correct when the solder flows freely into the joint. The spring clamps also provide handles to hold the piece while soldering.
Here is a closeup of the above picture.
Here is a shot of adding the rail extension since stock sheet was too short. Needed another 11/16". Once finished up the joint is barely visible and I put this to the rear of the chassis where it will be less obvious anyway.
Here is how to file the bottom angle to fit the side rail. Double sided carpet tape works great to hold small pieces. I would recommend buying a steel block if you do not have one. I think MicroMark offers one. Also handy to hammer some parts back to flat. Be careful to slowly remove the part from the tape so as not to bend or distort the piece. The tape adhesive works well in holding it in place.
Here is the bottom angle cut and filed to fit. Working with brass requires patience and a good assortment of files.
Here is how to remove excess solder. Scrape
, file,
sand
and polish. Note: Blades are stamped out as a result one edge is rounded down while the other has a sharp edge. Use the sharp edge to
scrape
. You can easilly tell the difference when you try to
scrape
.Here is the finished left rail.
Now to finish up the right side. Then the next installment will be the crossmenbers.
Please feel free to post questions, and there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Ken
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QUOTE 
Originally Posted by Tage
I'm content watching it unfold post by post.
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