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Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale
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Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale
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    1. Kit: , by (Established Member) Bender_13 is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jan 2016 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  (2 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 0
      Started: 12-13-11 Build Revisions: Never  
      Not Supported

      Hello

      [B]This is it, my first assembly report on Scale Motor Cars.
      In September 2011, I´ve started building a Ford Model T in 1914 at a scale of 1:8.

      Daniel / "Scale Motor Cars" saw my construction overview in a German forum and asked me to show them at this site, so here you are. This request I am happy to comply.

      In the first few lines a friend of mine helped me translating my letters into English language because my listening and understanding English is quite well but writing and speaking would be necessary to improve.

      In my next report Daniel has offered me kindly to translate my further explanations. So I'll set it up first time in German and Daniel will then translate it for me.

      Thus a huge thanks to Daniel.

      Because of I´ve been building for a couple of months already, I will set several pictures of the actual model at the beginning.
      If you have questions about the building report, I'll try to answer them of course.[/B]

      Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale-3536613561643661-jpg

      Weil es dieses Modell nicht als Modell in 1:8 gibt, muß ich wohl alle Teile zu 100% selber anfertigen.
      Das dürfte also mein bisher aufwendigstes Projekt werden. Das fertige Modell dürfte dann so ca. 42cm lang, 21cm breit und 25cm hoch werden.
      Diese Zeichnung dient mir als Vorbild und hier kann ich mir auch alle wichtigen Maße abnehmen.

      This model is not available in 1:8 scale , so I'll have to do all the parts myself. It is the most complex project I have ever done.The finished model should approx be 42cm long, 21cm wide and 25cm high.
      This drawing serves as a reference for this build and here I can also pick up all the important dimensions.


      Außerdem habe ich in München im Deutschen Museum von diesem (besteht nur aus Fahrgestell und Motor) und einem ähnliches Modell (mit Aufbau) ca 100 Photos von allen möglichen Details gemacht.
      Die beiden Modelle unterscheiden sich hauptsächlich bei der Karosserie. Fahrgestell, Motor, Rahmen, usw. müssten identisch sein.

      Beside that I took about a 100 detail pictures from a chassis and engine and a similar car in the Deutsches Museum in Munich. The two models differ mainly in body. The chassis, engine, frame etc.should be identical.


      Beginnen will ich heute mit den ersten Rahmenteilen.
      Vorne:

      I will begin today with the first frame parts. Front:


      Und diesem Teil Hinten:

      And this part of the back:


      Dazu habe ich mir zwei Biege Schablonen zurechtgesägt und gefeilt.

      For this I made two templates to bend the material


      Auf die schmalere der beiden Platten konnte ich jetzt die 6x6mm Messing-U-Leiste aufstecken und mit dem zweiten Stempel von oben die U-Leiste in Form biegen. Die U-Leisten habe ich vorher zum glühen gebracht, damit es weicher wird und sich besser umformen lässt.

      On the lower part I put a 6x6 mm brass U profile.With the upper part I bend the U profile in the right shape.The U profile was heated, so it became softer and is easier to shape.




      Damit sich die beiden Seiten des U beim Biegen nicht verformen habe ich zwei Leisten dazugespannt.

      To avoid deforming I used two guards


      Und nun das Ergebnis des ersten Tages.

      And now the result of the first day.






      Die beiden U-Leisten müssen jetzt nur noch etwas gekürzt werden.
      Ich hoffe ich habe mit meinem neuen Projekt euer Interesse geweckt.
      Noch nicht mal richtig angefangen, habe ich schon meinen ersten Fehler gemacht.
      Bei einem der beiden U-Träger habe ich mich in der Form geirrt.
      Also habe ich das Werkzeug nochmal abgeändert und ein neues U angefertigt.
      (neue Werkzeug Geometrie)

      The two U profiles must now be slightly shortened.
      I hope you like my new project.
      Not even properly started yet, I've already made​​ my first mistake. One of the U profiles was not formed correctly. I modified the template and formed a new U shape. ( a new geometry of the tool)


      Oben das Falsche Teil, unten das neue mit der richtigen Form.

      The upper part is the wrong one, the other has the right shape.



      Die zwei Längs-U-Träger (rechts und links) verjüngen sich zubeiden Ende hin, also konnte ich keine normale U-Leiste verwenden.
      Ich habe mich für folgende Variante entschieden.
      5x5mm Messing L-Leisten habe ich passend zugeschnitten und zurechtgefeilt.

      The 2 longitudinal beams (Left and right) become smaller at the end so I could not use a U profile, so I opted for the following variant: The 5x5mm brass L-strip I cut to size and trimmed correctly.




      Die Einzelteile habe ich dann verlötet, und in einem ersten Schritt schon einmal die Lötstellen grob verfeilt.

      These parts I then soldered and cleaned the soldering spots with a coarse file.




      Die Vorderseite werde ich noch etwas Verspachteln, damit der Spalt zwischen den L-Leisten verschwindet. Das Modell wird am ende schwarz Lackiert, dann fällt das nicht mehr auf.
      Ich hatte mir auch überlegt die U-Träger aus einem stück Blech zu biegen oder aus je 3 Blechen zusammenzulöten.
      Aber an der von mir gewählten Variante gefällt mir das die Außenkanten rechteckig sind und nicht wie beim Biegen einen Radius aufweisen. Und stabiler als sie aus einzelnen Blechen währe. Außerdem sind die L-Leisten gerader als es zugeschnittene und zurechtgefeilte Bleche währen.
      Um die ganzen Blechteile für das Modell zuschneiden zu können habe ich mir eine kleine Blechschere gebaut.

      The frontside will be filled, so that the gap between the L-bar disappears.The model will be painted black at the end, so the filling will be invisible.
      I considered to form the U beams from one piece of sheet metal or to solder it from 3 pieces. But I like my variant because the outer edges are rectangular and not curved. They are also more stabile than the multiple piece variant. The L beams are more straight because of the chosen variant.
      To cut the sheet metal parts for the model, I built a small tin snips.

      Jetzt brauche ich die Bleche nicht mehr auszusägen und nachzufeilen. Und kein Verzug der Bleche wie es mit einer normalen Schere der Fall währe.
      Bis zu 1mm Blechstärke kann ich damit Messingbleche zuschneiden.

      I don't have to use a saw and file anymore to get a proper result. And the sheet metal will not bend anymore, which happens when you use a pair of metal sheet scissors.
      Up to1 mm thickness I can cut now.


      So nun aber wieder zum Modell.
      Wenn ich Bleche nach dem Zuschneiden noch biegen muß, mache ich das im Schraubstock mithilfe von gehärteten Leisten.

      But back to the model now. When after cutting I have to bend the metal I use a vise with hardened bars.


      Alle Einzelteile für den hinteren Rahmen.

      All single parts for the rear frame.


      Die großen Winkel habe ich angelötet.

      The large angle I've soldered.


      Die anderen Teile habe ich mit M1-Messing-Schauben verschraubt.

      The other parts I've screwed with brass M1 screws.






      Der Rahmen war zwar eigentlich vernietet, da ich ihn aber immer wieder mal zerlegen muß (zum Motor einbauen, Lackieren, usw.) werde ich ihn komplett verschrauben.

      Jetzt ist der vordere Rahmen an der Reihe.

      Although the frame originally was riveted, I will use bolts because I have to break down the frame for installing the engine, painting etc.

      Now, it is time for he front part.


      Die Einzelteile habe ich zum Teil an den Rahmen angelötet.

      The separate parts I've soldered to the frame.


      Der Rest wurde wieder verschraubt.

      The rest was bolted again.






      Und jetzt der komplette Rahmen.

      And now the entire frame.


      An die Halterungen links wird später die Karoserie verschraubt.
      Und an die Teile rechts werden später die Trittbretter angeschraubt.

      To the brackets on the left the car body will be attached.
      To the right parts the side steps are bolted.


      Die Karoserie Winkel habe ich aus zwei Messingteilen zusammengelötet.

      The bodywork brackets I've soldered from two brass parts.




      Die Halterungen für die Trittbretter sind auch aus drei Teilen verlötet.

      The brackets for the side steps are soldered from three parts.


      Die fertigen und angeschraubten Teile.

      The finished and bolted parts.






      Jetzt zeige ich euch wie ich bei den beiden Federpaketen vorgegangen bin.

      Original vorne:

      Now I'll show you how I made the two spring packages.

      Original front:


      Als Ausgangsmaterial habe ich 0,9mm Stahlblech verwendet.

      I have used 0.9 mm sheet steel for this.


      Die Bleche habe ich zuerst gebogen und anschließend auf länge zugesägt.
      Die Ösen habe ich mit einer Rundzange gebogen nachdem ich die enden der Bleche mit einem Lötbrenner zum Glühen gebracht hatte.

      The sheets I bend and cut to length.The O shape I bent with pliers, heatening the plates before that with a burner


      Die beiden Halterungen habe ich aus Messingblech gebogen und anschließend mit dem Federpaket verschraubt.

      The two mounts I have bent from sheet brass and then bolted to the spring assembly.




      Das hintere Federpaket hat schon eine kompliziertere Geometrie.
      Original hinten:

      The rear springs have a more complex geometry.
      Original back:


      Zuerst habe ich den Zentralen Radius gebogen.

      First I bent the central radius.


      Und danach die anderen beiden. Es war garnicht so einfach da jedes Blech einen anderen Radius hat.

      And then the other two. It was not so easy because each plate has a different radius.




      Zum Schluß das fertige Packet mit den Messing Halterungen.

      Finally, the finished package with brass mounts.


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  1. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Now I begin with the steering element.
    The part makes the beginning at the framework that the rotating motion of the steering wheel turns back and to the front wheels passes on.
    To the turned part I soldered already once two pipes.


    Which following I into shape-filed.


    To the first part still two further are soldered on. Thus the two pipes soldered on first, with which following soldering again do not drop has I it with a wire provisionally fixed.








    After everything was soldered, I could into shape-file the part.


    Then I have still another small oiler turned which I in my construction unit above clean-put.


    To the conclusion I could screw the part at the frameworks.







    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #32

  2. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    And it continues to go with the steering element.




    Those are the individual parts of the mounting plate for the steering bar in the instrument panel.




    After soldering I filed the whole still in form.


    And to the test I plugged the thing together once with the other parts.





    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #33

  3. Tage's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Daniel
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    Very nice work!
    I'm enjoying this.
    Duke of Burl
    QUOTE QUOTE #34

  4. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Since commencement of construction employs me already the question as I the body to be made is.


    I have myself consider it once with deep-drawing to try.
    Actually I am still busy with the steering element. But I had now all parts for a first deep-drawing attempt together and wanted not to wait to the steering element am finished.
    I was already completely strained whether it will probably in such a way function like I it had planned.

    Here thus my report to the deep-drawing of the body.

    First I have a framework from wood tinkered into which I a 4mm Polysterol plate clamp themselves and over a core pull could.






    The frameworks has I so largely made which I it straight still into my furnace clean-put could. (with 175°C, approx. 10 minutes)


    I stuck and by right filed the core following from 20mm MDF (wood) plates.






    Now I could take and over the core draw the frameworks from the furnace. I touched a second smaller timber frame still over the core, so that the plastic rests completely against the core.




    After the cooling I could take the core out.


    And the timber frame unscrew.






    That only attempt was careless some more, but with second I am correctly content.
    Now I must saw and file the part out only.


    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #35

  5. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    You've really got my attention now. That's a great way to to the job. It looks even better than a vacuform set up.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #36

  6. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    First I noted the body form.


    Afterwards I could cut the form out with a tinkering measurer.






    Thus which I did not cut out the two doors not with a saw separate with the measurer arise a gap between body and door. So I can use both cutouts directly again as doors.


    So far for first. Next I will continue however again with the steering element.


    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #37

  7. Egon's Avatar Moderator
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    Jens my friend.
    Sorry to say, but I was expecting a woodframe with alu or brass for the body as all the other parts are made so beautifull and perfect.
    Is the real Fort T not build this was, it would be a shame with a body of Polysterol on a perfect model, thats only my opinion ?
    Otherwice ist's a fine solution.
    QUOTE QUOTE #38

  8. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Hallo Egon

    Quote Originally Posted by Egon View Post
    Jens my friend.
    Sorry to say, but I was expecting a woodframe with alu or brass for the body as all the other parts are made so beautifull and perfect.
    Is the real Fort T not build this was, it would be a shame with a body of Polysterol on a perfect model, thats only my opinion ?
    Otherwice ist's a fine solution.

    You are right, a timber frame with sheet metal referred last better.
    Which lasts however substantially to more work. But after painting one cannot recognize a difference between sheet metal and plastics more. The engine is also from plastics.

    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #39

  9. Egon's Avatar Moderator
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    It's not so mush what you can see, but to know it's made as the real car and be satisfeid and proud of your build.
    QUOTE QUOTE #40

  10. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Hello

    With the body I had forgotten still another little thing.
    The two front corners at the instrument panel fit later I with a hot Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale -air hair dryer once again warmed up and straight bent.




    And before I continue with the steering element, I revised the radiator once again.
    Originally I had glued to inside a accordion out of alu sheet metal.


    Thus I was however not content, then I which other one had considered myself.
    Thus I prepared 46 pieces of 0,5mm of copper sheets and clean-bored in each case 34 holes (1,2mm), altogether thus 1564 holes.


    I up-threaded the sheet metals then on 1mm brass waves.




    After I had put 0,5mm plastic strip as provisional spacers between them, I could fix the individual sheet metals with 2 components adhesives.


    And here the result.






    That approximates the original structure of radiator nevertheless all right.
    Subsequently, I have pack into the radiator stuck and also the lattices in the back again was in front and stuck.





    The whole the advantage which one by the radiator through the engine saw now can.




    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #41

  11. kmeaders@q.com's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Best radiator I've seen built; amazing detail and fabrication. I learned another trick, thanks. Ken
    Old Sprinter
    QUOTE QUOTE #42

  12. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    The grill and radiator are an absolute masterpiece. It's truly a work of art.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #43

  13. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar Administrator
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    Wow!!! Now thats what I call scratch building. Amazing work...
    QUOTE QUOTE #44

  14. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Now it continues with the steering column.



    The left is the Spark Lever and the right of the Throttle Lever.





    And inserted.









    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #45

  15. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    It continues to go with the steering wheel.


    With a small circular saw blade I sawed 4 slots into the steering wheel.


    There inside I could put the cross now.


    And soldering.


    After sanding Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale nothing more is to be seen by the sawed slots.













    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #46

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