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Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale
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Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale
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    1. Kit: , by (Established Member) Bender_13 is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jan 2016 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  (2 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 0
      Started: 12-13-11 Build Revisions: Never  
      Not Supported

      Hello

      [B]This is it, my first assembly report on Scale Motor Cars.
      In September 2011, I´ve started building a Ford Model T in 1914 at a scale of 1:8.

      Daniel / "Scale Motor Cars" saw my construction overview in a German forum and asked me to show them at this site, so here you are. This request I am happy to comply.

      In the first few lines a friend of mine helped me translating my letters into English language because my listening and understanding English is quite well but writing and speaking would be necessary to improve.

      In my next report Daniel has offered me kindly to translate my further explanations. So I'll set it up first time in German and Daniel will then translate it for me.

      Thus a huge thanks to Daniel.

      Because of I´ve been building for a couple of months already, I will set several pictures of the actual model at the beginning.
      If you have questions about the building report, I'll try to answer them of course.[/B]

      Article: Scratch Built Stock Ford Model T in 1:8 th Scale-3536613561643661-jpg

      Weil es dieses Modell nicht als Modell in 1:8 gibt, muß ich wohl alle Teile zu 100% selber anfertigen.
      Das dürfte also mein bisher aufwendigstes Projekt werden. Das fertige Modell dürfte dann so ca. 42cm lang, 21cm breit und 25cm hoch werden.
      Diese Zeichnung dient mir als Vorbild und hier kann ich mir auch alle wichtigen Maße abnehmen.

      This model is not available in 1:8 scale , so I'll have to do all the parts myself. It is the most complex project I have ever done.The finished model should approx be 42cm long, 21cm wide and 25cm high.
      This drawing serves as a reference for this build and here I can also pick up all the important dimensions.


      Außerdem habe ich in München im Deutschen Museum von diesem (besteht nur aus Fahrgestell und Motor) und einem ähnliches Modell (mit Aufbau) ca 100 Photos von allen möglichen Details gemacht.
      Die beiden Modelle unterscheiden sich hauptsächlich bei der Karosserie. Fahrgestell, Motor, Rahmen, usw. müssten identisch sein.

      Beside that I took about a 100 detail pictures from a chassis and engine and a similar car in the Deutsches Museum in Munich. The two models differ mainly in body. The chassis, engine, frame etc.should be identical.


      Beginnen will ich heute mit den ersten Rahmenteilen.
      Vorne:

      I will begin today with the first frame parts. Front:


      Und diesem Teil Hinten:

      And this part of the back:


      Dazu habe ich mir zwei Biege Schablonen zurechtgesägt und gefeilt.

      For this I made two templates to bend the material


      Auf die schmalere der beiden Platten konnte ich jetzt die 6x6mm Messing-U-Leiste aufstecken und mit dem zweiten Stempel von oben die U-Leiste in Form biegen. Die U-Leisten habe ich vorher zum glühen gebracht, damit es weicher wird und sich besser umformen lässt.

      On the lower part I put a 6x6 mm brass U profile.With the upper part I bend the U profile in the right shape.The U profile was heated, so it became softer and is easier to shape.




      Damit sich die beiden Seiten des U beim Biegen nicht verformen habe ich zwei Leisten dazugespannt.

      To avoid deforming I used two guards


      Und nun das Ergebnis des ersten Tages.

      And now the result of the first day.






      Die beiden U-Leisten müssen jetzt nur noch etwas gekürzt werden.
      Ich hoffe ich habe mit meinem neuen Projekt euer Interesse geweckt.
      Noch nicht mal richtig angefangen, habe ich schon meinen ersten Fehler gemacht.
      Bei einem der beiden U-Träger habe ich mich in der Form geirrt.
      Also habe ich das Werkzeug nochmal abgeändert und ein neues U angefertigt.
      (neue Werkzeug Geometrie)

      The two U profiles must now be slightly shortened.
      I hope you like my new project.
      Not even properly started yet, I've already made​​ my first mistake. One of the U profiles was not formed correctly. I modified the template and formed a new U shape. ( a new geometry of the tool)


      Oben das Falsche Teil, unten das neue mit der richtigen Form.

      The upper part is the wrong one, the other has the right shape.



      Die zwei Längs-U-Träger (rechts und links) verjüngen sich zubeiden Ende hin, also konnte ich keine normale U-Leiste verwenden.
      Ich habe mich für folgende Variante entschieden.
      5x5mm Messing L-Leisten habe ich passend zugeschnitten und zurechtgefeilt.

      The 2 longitudinal beams (Left and right) become smaller at the end so I could not use a U profile, so I opted for the following variant: The 5x5mm brass L-strip I cut to size and trimmed correctly.




      Die Einzelteile habe ich dann verlötet, und in einem ersten Schritt schon einmal die Lötstellen grob verfeilt.

      These parts I then soldered and cleaned the soldering spots with a coarse file.




      Die Vorderseite werde ich noch etwas Verspachteln, damit der Spalt zwischen den L-Leisten verschwindet. Das Modell wird am ende schwarz Lackiert, dann fällt das nicht mehr auf.
      Ich hatte mir auch überlegt die U-Träger aus einem stück Blech zu biegen oder aus je 3 Blechen zusammenzulöten.
      Aber an der von mir gewählten Variante gefällt mir das die Außenkanten rechteckig sind und nicht wie beim Biegen einen Radius aufweisen. Und stabiler als sie aus einzelnen Blechen währe. Außerdem sind die L-Leisten gerader als es zugeschnittene und zurechtgefeilte Bleche währen.
      Um die ganzen Blechteile für das Modell zuschneiden zu können habe ich mir eine kleine Blechschere gebaut.

      The frontside will be filled, so that the gap between the L-bar disappears.The model will be painted black at the end, so the filling will be invisible.
      I considered to form the U beams from one piece of sheet metal or to solder it from 3 pieces. But I like my variant because the outer edges are rectangular and not curved. They are also more stabile than the multiple piece variant. The L beams are more straight because of the chosen variant.
      To cut the sheet metal parts for the model, I built a small tin snips.

      Jetzt brauche ich die Bleche nicht mehr auszusägen und nachzufeilen. Und kein Verzug der Bleche wie es mit einer normalen Schere der Fall währe.
      Bis zu 1mm Blechstärke kann ich damit Messingbleche zuschneiden.

      I don't have to use a saw and file anymore to get a proper result. And the sheet metal will not bend anymore, which happens when you use a pair of metal sheet scissors.
      Up to1 mm thickness I can cut now.


      So nun aber wieder zum Modell.
      Wenn ich Bleche nach dem Zuschneiden noch biegen muß, mache ich das im Schraubstock mithilfe von gehärteten Leisten.

      But back to the model now. When after cutting I have to bend the metal I use a vise with hardened bars.


      Alle Einzelteile für den hinteren Rahmen.

      All single parts for the rear frame.


      Die großen Winkel habe ich angelötet.

      The large angle I've soldered.


      Die anderen Teile habe ich mit M1-Messing-Schauben verschraubt.

      The other parts I've screwed with brass M1 screws.






      Der Rahmen war zwar eigentlich vernietet, da ich ihn aber immer wieder mal zerlegen muß (zum Motor einbauen, Lackieren, usw.) werde ich ihn komplett verschrauben.

      Jetzt ist der vordere Rahmen an der Reihe.

      Although the frame originally was riveted, I will use bolts because I have to break down the frame for installing the engine, painting etc.

      Now, it is time for he front part.


      Die Einzelteile habe ich zum Teil an den Rahmen angelötet.

      The separate parts I've soldered to the frame.


      Der Rest wurde wieder verschraubt.

      The rest was bolted again.






      Und jetzt der komplette Rahmen.

      And now the entire frame.


      An die Halterungen links wird später die Karoserie verschraubt.
      Und an die Teile rechts werden später die Trittbretter angeschraubt.

      To the brackets on the left the car body will be attached.
      To the right parts the side steps are bolted.


      Die Karoserie Winkel habe ich aus zwei Messingteilen zusammengelötet.

      The bodywork brackets I've soldered from two brass parts.




      Die Halterungen für die Trittbretter sind auch aus drei Teilen verlötet.

      The brackets for the side steps are soldered from three parts.


      Die fertigen und angeschraubten Teile.

      The finished and bolted parts.






      Jetzt zeige ich euch wie ich bei den beiden Federpaketen vorgegangen bin.

      Original vorne:

      Now I'll show you how I made the two spring packages.

      Original front:


      Als Ausgangsmaterial habe ich 0,9mm Stahlblech verwendet.

      I have used 0.9 mm sheet steel for this.


      Die Bleche habe ich zuerst gebogen und anschließend auf länge zugesägt.
      Die Ösen habe ich mit einer Rundzange gebogen nachdem ich die enden der Bleche mit einem Lötbrenner zum Glühen gebracht hatte.

      The sheets I bend and cut to length.The O shape I bent with pliers, heatening the plates before that with a burner


      Die beiden Halterungen habe ich aus Messingblech gebogen und anschließend mit dem Federpaket verschraubt.

      The two mounts I have bent from sheet brass and then bolted to the spring assembly.




      Das hintere Federpaket hat schon eine kompliziertere Geometrie.
      Original hinten:

      The rear springs have a more complex geometry.
      Original back:


      Zuerst habe ich den Zentralen Radius gebogen.

      First I bent the central radius.


      Und danach die anderen beiden. Es war garnicht so einfach da jedes Blech einen anderen Radius hat.

      And then the other two. It was not so easy because each plate has a different radius.




      Zum Schluß das fertige Packet mit den Messing Halterungen.

      Finally, the finished package with brass mounts.


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  1. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar Administrator
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    Daniel
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    Jens your English is far better then Googles version of German. I have no problem understanding you.

    Ill catch up some of the translations soon. Im finally feeling better. What a nightmare of a Flu this year.
    QUOTE QUOTE #17

  2. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I can't take the credit for the translations. That's been done by Dan.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #18

  3. Tony's Avatar Active Member
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    Tony
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    Much of the fun about building is making some of the tooling for the project, your tooling and how you engineer this project is great, looking forward to learning more and more
    Nice work so far, look forward to another update
    It's easier to destroy, than it is to create
    QUOTE QUOTE #19

  4. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello


    First, today I have the holes drilled for the valves in the spokes of wheels. (All holes I drill by hand in plastic, not with the drill machine.)





    After I had installed the valves I could drill the holes for the wheel hub parts. Then I connected the hub to the spokes with ball-head screws.
    Finally, I plugged the two aluminum halves on spoke rims.
    The tire is only half of the photo on the rim. The two tire halves so I stick only if the spokes are painted together.
    The front wheel:






    The rear wheel:







    Best regards Jens
    Last edited by Bender_13; 12-16-11 at 06:41 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #20

  5. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    Now I start with the instrument panel.






    The individual parts for the two Mounting plates .




    To the conclusion I still drill the holes and filed her in form.


    I made the instrument panel from a 3mm Polysterol plate. Subsequently, I screwed the parts on with ball-head screws.





    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #21

  6. Tony's Avatar Active Member
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    Tony
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    Incredible skills, and some great tips here, thanks for sharing
    It's easier to destroy, than it is to create
    QUOTE QUOTE #22

  7. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    The next part that I have machined brass serves as a support for the hood on the dashboard.









    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #23

  8. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar Administrator
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    Daniel
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    OK.. I'm officially IMPRESSED. Really its official...
    QUOTE QUOTE #24

  9. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    I was thinking would prefer to use wood for the dashboard and the coil box.

    The used veneer.


    4 thin wooden strips I glued the veneer on both sides.


    And the 4 bars I then glued together.


    The new instrument panel:




    The coil box:


    After the first parts are done now, I must say I like the wood also much better. The contrast effect later in the otherwise black car will be great.


    MfG Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #25

  10. Ton's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Ton
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    Thank you Jens for showing the veneer procedure. I can you tell/show us how you did the box....especially the edges/corners.
    Regards

    Ton
    QUOTE QUOTE #26

  11. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    That's what I call nice, tight grain wood. It looks perfectly in scale. Very well done.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #27

  12. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello




    The brass strips I've attached the right and left on the dashboard with rivets.
    The support for the hood I have installed exactly the same.







    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #28

  13. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    The corroded keys remained remaining still by my last project.
    For the starter lock I stuck two semicircular profiles into a pipe. So I could put the key in.




    The two mounting plates lock the cover of the coil box.


    At this course the mixture can be adjusted later from the driver's seat.


    I fastened the first parts already once to the coil box.


    And those are the connections those in the back from the coil box come and to the late the cables to be fastened.


    And to the conclusion, I installed all parts today.










    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #29

  14. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Good Gravy again. That's just too good.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #30

  15. Bender_13's Avatar Established Member
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    Jens
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    Hello

    I fastened the wiring harness with three clips to the instrument panel.

    The cables lead later to the two headlights and the battery.



    Now I could screw the instrument panel at the frame.
















    Jens
    QUOTE QUOTE #31

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