Building the 1934 540K Mercedes Benz

[hmaia]

Added a few more details to the frame. I still have to install the rear brake lines. The K91 kit doesn't provide the parking brake cables. I used a guitar string (o.042" O.D) to make them. I have a feeling that it scales to a larger diameter than you should expect for the real car, but it only hit me after I installed the cables. I might get a thinner string and redo the cables, if it continues to bother me. It is the proverbial pain in the neck to install these cables. I should have installed them before the differential was assembled to the frame. Oh, well, still learning.
Tomorrow I will touch up the paint on the frame, suspension etc, after I assemble the steering linkage. I heard it is a bear of a project, but after this is done, I think I will be ready for the engine and drive-line. I will put together a wood stand to make easier to work on the car.


Another item that seems to out of scale is the brake line. I will measure it and see what it scales to. If needed, I will find an alternative.

[hmaia]

Hello Pocher modelers.
I need your help to find a spare metal cover # 74204, part of the steering linkage for the K91 kit. My kit came with this part missing, and I would like to find a supplier of the occasional spare. The picture shows both the metal cover and the page of the assembly manual where it appears. I made one, but it came out too small. I am going for slightly larger stock and will try again, but my hope is to find a spare
The other option is to cough up the sixty bucks and get the kit from one of the scale model stores.
I would really appreciate any help finding this part.
Thank you.

[3.Star]

Hi Hermilio,
got four of those in my stock. When there is any interest, drop me a pm with your adress and they're on the way.

Cheers
Michael

[semijoe]

your doing a remarkable job on this build. shes a beauty

[hmaia]

Michael,
Chris answered back and is graciously sending me one of his.

I told my wife last night how amazing this community is, and I see now how much support you get from the members.
I appreciate your offer and will keep you in mind if anything else is needed. With Pocher kits you never really know, specially if they had been started.
Thank you,
Hermilio

[hmaia]

After hours of bending, enlarging the hole for the nut that attaches the steering box to the frame, and making from scratch the metal cover # 74204, missing from the kit, I was able to put together the steering system. (Chris came to the rescue and is generously shipping a spare one to me. Thank you again.) One thing that I found important is to shim the steering pinion (attached to the long steering shaft). Use small flat washers in front and behind the pinion, until there is no end play as you turn the pinion against the worm gear in the steering box both ways. I used a small amount of grease inside the steering box, and attaching the steering shaft to a reversible drill, turned the shaft in both directions for several minutes to break-in the gears. The steering box turns nice and without binding. After you have assurance that the steering system turns freely lock to lock, use Locktite to secure the nuts holding the steering arm to the worm gear shaft, and tighten the nuts well. The steering system tie rods come with very large holes and will not fit inside the metal covers # 74204 without some work; I found a drill bit of the same diameter as the brass rivet, and used a pair of needle nose pliers wrap the tie rods ends around the drill bit as tightly as possible. and made sure I could fit then into the metal cover. The steering assembly is a time consuming affair. All the bend angles shown in the manual are off. You will have to to check and bend until the center tie rod is horizontal. Do the bending a little at a time until you are satisfied. By the way, the curvature of both curved arms attached to the wheel hub is off. Mine had to be bent upwards to mount the tie rods. Overall, the steering system is a fairly difficult step, requiring patience and experimentation.
I reinstalled the engine and drive-line. I have two of the wheels assembled. Mounting the tires will tax your patience. The tires' sidewalls deform and you have to work them around a while to see them fit. As a matter of personal preference, I decided not to paint the tire sidewalls white. I have seen reference photos both with white and black walls, and I like the natural look of the black sidewall.
Enlarge the opening in the wheels slightly before you press the wheel hub into the wheel insert already mounted to the brake drum. I worked manually a 7/16" drill bit into the hole, and was able to press the insert into the hole without any problems.
Next I will assemble the radiator, engine firewall, run all the rest of the engine piping , and then grind my teeth and tackle the body.

[sjordan]

This is just an excellent build journal. In addition to all the 1:1 research I've done, it's going to be very valuable in helping me detail my 1/25 500K Spezial Coupe, especially in figuring out where all the little wires, tubes and hoses come from and where they go.

[ScaleMotorcars]

Great pics. Keep up the great work this stuff is amazing.

[3.Star]

Hi again Hermilio,

when glueing the body parts of your Pocher, please remember that they are made of ABS, not styrene . Use some requested glue for the material, otherwise the bond will go weak, the pretty paintjob tears and you are back in restauration. I am sure, you know this already, but I didn't want to take any chances.
Cheers
Michael

[hmaia]

Thanks Michael, I'll keep that in mind.
Hermilio.

I saw this video today, and again, scale building is a worldwide passion.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->The replica of the prestigious car is made by Jacques Eremian, built in 1 / 4 scale and has already required more than 4000 hours of work.
Amazing work.
Bugatti Grand Prix 59 (1935) - YouTube

[hmaia]

The first two tires I mounted I used a small screwdriver to work them over the rims. I decided to heat the tires with a hair drier for maybe two minutes, slowly spinning them, and to my surprise, they mounted very easily, without using the screwdriver. There are two ridges inside the tires that index with the outer diameter of the wheel. If the ridges are not properly seated the tires will show gaps around the tire beads. I pushed the ridges with the tip of a small screwdriver and all fit properly.
The firewall is pretty straightforward. The corner of the tank mounted to it, near the hole for the radiator brace, needs to be sanded for clearance. Careful with the two side by side outlets # 74533. The mounting holes need to be enlarged, or you will damage these parts. I had to increase the hole in the metal horn body to fit into the base, it is very tight.
I decided to add a couple of small details to the firewall; a voltage regulator mounted close to the two chromed reservoirs, and a starter relay. I had no idea of the actual shape of these parts so I tried to copy the look of similar parts of the era. I built a harness for the ignition coil and generator wires. The other end is connected to the voltage regulator and one of the wires goes through the firewall.
I regretted this idea while I was installing the harness. By the time I was done my fingers were cramping, but I think is a nice detail.
I installed the rest of the piping in the engine compartment, except for one fitting. On top of the triangular manifold there is a cylindrical part, and I couldn't find instructions for connecting to it. In the reference photos, you can't really see where it is connected. It is not very easy to access the two lower bolts to mount the firewall to the frame tabs.


I need to touch up the paint on the voltage regulator and the chromed reservoir. I really messed both up when I used epoxi to glue the wires. The finish that Dupli-color Universal Chrome yields is fantastic. I used a different chrome paint for the wheels and the result is not nearly as good. Another thing I did differently was to follow some advice on the net to prime the parts, then apply high gloss black and then the chrome paint. I tried that with the wheels, and it took forever to dry, and the result was not what I expected. This time I applied the chrome paint directly over the sandable primer . Another thing I did differently was to apply the second coat long enough to be just short of running. I waited about 15 minutes between coats.
I used 22 gauge wire for the starter motor.
Next is the radiator, then try to fit the hood and the body. I want to use a thin layer of foam glued to the sea, under a glued leather cover. Anyone has been able to cut ridges on foam as they show in the plastic seats? I wonder if a heated wire would do it.

[3.Star]

Hi Hermilio,

there is a great tutorial for the K-91 upholstery on Modelmotorcars CD "Pocher Mercedes Advanced Techniques". Don't want to violate any copyright, so just my recommendation without showing pics. I hope you understand.


Michael

[hmaia]

Hello Michael,

I did a search here and found some great tutorials by HFC. I believe these will guide me through the process. I got the material yesterday, and I am now in the layout process. Thank you for the tip, I intend to get that book. Just received the photo-etched radiator grill and dash faces and bezels from MMC.

[hmaia]

Assembled the radiator with the grill from MMC, and exhaust flexible pipes. The pipes come too long and have to be trimmed some. I went with small increments until they fit without stressing the engine. Rechromed the lower reservoir, and touched up the paint on the voltage regulator. Most of this week was spent in test fitting the body, doors, hood and fenders. Taking into account the reputation of Pocher bodies, the K91 was a pleasant surprise. Very little sanding around the doors' lower edges. The hood side panels were warped, I had to heat them and reshape to a straight finish. The fenders required a little sanding , mostly cosmetic. They seem to fit well.
I am doing layout work for the seat and doors, thank you Jeffrey, for a couple of great tutorials.
I got a pad of very dark gray felt that will be a good substitute for the carpet. I found vinyl that is darker than the metallic silver the car is going to be painted. I couldn't find leather in the same color, but the material I found is a lot better than the Pocher material. I am thinking about using sanded, stained and clear coated balsa for the dashboard. If I go this way, I think will be a nice touch.

[semijoe]

totally lost for words. just stunning