Bloody Mary in 1/8 scale scratch build

[MODEL A MODEL]

Wow!

In addition to all the various details, (applaud, applaud!) There will eventually come the decisions on how to paint all this.

I know these photos are of the present condition, but it was probably always a bit of a mess. Visually.

Again,

[Jo NZ]

Thanks Don
My thought at the moment is to build it as new and then gently weather it. If I try and replicate the current state I'm not sure how to do dust....

[Jo NZ]

It's been a while, I keep finding new things to model, but I'm now scratching around for the last details. I'll soon have to start building....

*

Starting from the front, the bracket on the front axle that attaches the hydraulic damper. I'm planning to use M0.8 bolts to attach it. At first I thought that I could draw in in one piece and slip it over the end of the axle: then I realised that the ends are bigger then the rest. So it's split.





Next the drivers side of the car



There are three tanks in front of the driver, two rectangular tanks and a cylindrical one. The big one at the front is for the methanol fuel, I discovered this by following the pipework out of the top of the tanks, and it goes to... the carbs




The cap is curious, but I did manage to model the diamond knurl ok.





Next is the cylinder. One of the three hoses from the top of the tank goes through this to the fuel pressure gauge, so I'm assuming that it's a pressure leveller or something. I had wondered about a fuel pump in the past - I've just had a thought that as the tank cap has a thread in the middle of it, the tank may well be pressurised (perhaps with a bicycle pump?).

For some light relief, I turned the tank from ally, which I can suitably distress. Pictures to follow later...

*

The red tank is a bit of a mystery. I think that it's an oil tank, as the are pumps on the dash for "front" and "rear" and copper tube leading away from them. Bolster used to drain the engine oil before a run to save weight and produce more power, as he reckoned the engines would last the short run up the hill, and they were stripped and rebuilt between each meeting. Maybe these are used to prime the bearings before starting?



The cap looks familiar, I just can't remember where from...





The steering drop link, conveniently, is very similar to the hydraulic damper arm, even the same length! It has a clamp bolt rather than being part of the pivot. The steering connection has a curious triple slot in the end, so was easier to draw than to machine.







Finally, the steering wheel



This is my third try to get it right. I think I might be there this time

[MODEL A MODEL]

Well well! Happy New Year Jo!

How's your summer so far?

What a hornet's nest of details! Really a fine job of problem solving.

[Jo NZ]

Quick update - some real parts at last. Engine 2 with magneto and gearbox

[Jo NZ]

And now for some paint, assembly, extra discoveries, re-drawing....

First a temporary assembly




I still have some more brackets to make for the rear engine (the originals were found to be wrong when I got the front mounts correct) and then I can fit them permanently.

The front suspension is painted and reassembled (M1 screws and nuts. I'm so glad that I didn't use anything smaller!) and the Armstrong dampers just need the link to the axle brackets.



I made the dash hoop by laminating 0.5mm strips of wood (possibly Matai - we have a model shop here that specialises in boats, and he makes all the wood strip). The footwell cover and dashboard are 0.4mm ally. The fuel and oil tanks are placed temporarily. The steering rod (is it a rod or connector?) and steering column are brass rod and tube, soldered and then nickel plated . I bet you thought I'd forgotten how to work with metal!



There's a strut supporting the nearside rear suspension. It attaches to the chassis with a bobbin



and a rod, like this.

Of course the other side is different and is made from flat bar....



You can see where I've glued the two good bits of tyre together so that BM can sit on her wheels.



When I was looking at how the rear friction damper attached (not the one you can see on the pivot, there's another one), I realised that I was missing a bottom connection to the axle. More peering at photos later and I modified the axle holder....



It's the grey bit that you can see through the wheel



Now to draw up the friction damper, which is (of course) not the same as the others....



I love the leg ripping chainsaw. It won't be nearly so visible when the bodywork is on.



Buoyed by doing stuff with metal, I roughed out the rear deck from ally sheet and my vice mounted bending brake. Now I have to find 59 rivets (actually slotted screws, but no-one seems to make slotted screws in M1 - they're all cross head). There's a wooden frame underneath but I forgot to photograph it. Next time.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Interesting construction.
If I'm understanding well, you cannot find the screw similar to the one in picture?

[Jo NZ]

Thanks Roger.
Yes you're right, that is what I'm looking for, especially if the the diameter of the head is 1.3mm. I have found countersunk slotted M1 screws, but not dome or pan head. Of course, they don't need to be any particular thread, or any thread at all, come to that....

[Roger Zimmermann]

You are searching something really special: the head from my screw is 2 mm with a height of 0.8 mm. Even if you are turning the head to your diameter, its height will be disproportionate.
For the Cadillac frame, I bought copper rivets, but they are a tad larger: the head is 1.6 mm in diameter for a shaft which is 1 mm in diameter. Do you would like the supplier? It's in Germany.

[Nortley]

MicroMark offers a 250 gram package of junk watch parts. If threads don't matter, there could be enough screws with appropriate heads.