1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine

[Roger Zimmermann]

Oh! That must be painful. I don't know why my previous answer has to be reviewed by a moderator; I suppose it's gone.
I wrote this morning that I can always count on you for suggestions! The page you published is interesting, but I don't know if the material is for 1:1 scale cooling system or for 1/4 or something different. The sample called "Fiat" is exactly what I would need, but I'm afraid the scale will not be right.
I do remember the video about old radiator fabrication; obviously, this approach is not something I can consider. Interesting: I was also thinking at forming the band with two wheels; I'm grateful by your own experience and I will not attempt it as the tooling is almost impossible to create with my tools.
Your idea about using paper could be interesting but difficult to apply here.
Anyway, after some searches in Internet for miniature honeycomb pattern, I continued with what I have already. As the long tool is impractical, why not do a shorter one (this the idea with the wheels where the brass is entering the "gears", get folded and leave the gears). I modified my prototype tooling, added the pin to have a constant position from both halves and began: dame issue, I got only cut band. Then, with a file, I cut the top of the "teeth" on both sides and tried again. This time, I can apply a lot of pressure on the vice, no cut anymore and the shape of the "fin" is not that bad. Then with another scrap element, I soft soldered two pieces to show what I'm intending to do. My material is a bit thick (0.1 mm) but I have at least some "stability". The whole process with take some weeks, but I have time (at least I think I have time...)!

[MODEL A MODEL]

-that is going to look great!

[MODEL A MODEL]

I'll have to try your method, but for half hexagons? I could cut up some Hex Keys and use those for my crocodiles' teeth?

[Roger Zimmermann]

At 1:4, easy: just use the appropriate milling tool do a "wide" V into the piece which will be the tool. A great precision will be needed. I'm sure you may find some pattern ready to use.
By the way, I modified my method: using only the short tool, the pitch was inconsistent. I did the same treatment at the long tool, inserted the piece which was ready and got a better result.
Now, I will see if I can buy some 0.05 mm thick brass (I used 0.1 mm) to get a better proportion.
Edit: just bought a roll of brass 0.05 mm thick. Not directly at the street corner: in Australia! Delivery is expected between January 31 and March 4th...And I don't know if this thin brass will be OK...Time to continue with the other parts from the radiator!

[MODEL A MODEL]

Australia! Wow!

Will it be a ribbon? or a sheet?

[MODEL A MODEL]

The people who make Stained Glass, things like lamp shades and windows, sell Copper foil in ribbon form, to conform around the glass edges facilitating the soldering of the glass. Perhaps your local neighborhood craft shop might have some of that stuff?

[Roger Zimmermann]

It's a roll.
Regarding your suggestion: as I'm not familiar at all with such kind of work, I did not ask. A German supplier has ribbons which would be interesting, the thinner materiel is 0.1 mm which I already have.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Got the 0.05mm thick brass today. Via China post! I assume that the Australian company is just a mail box office and all material is from China.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Some time ago, I began the upper water tank. As I unfortunately don't have pictures from the top of this part (the radiator strap is hiding most of it), it will be some guess in the making. I still have to do the thermostat housing at the front of the tank and probably two depressions to allow sufficient space between the tank and the bolts attaching the radiator's surround to the radiator.
The pictures I did in Germany are not entirely correct for the 1932 radiator: there was for me a major difference: till 1932, the radiator filling neck was on top of the surround, from 1933 the cap was under the hood. To spare on costs, the strap was the same for both years.
At the tank's rear, there are two holes: they are used to install the ignition coils. Interesting solution!

[Roger Zimmermann]

People who used an analog camera have probably had a "camera shutter release cable". What has this accessory to do with that scale model? The answer is easy: the inside cable, diameter 1 mm, ideal to run a small cable.
I had such an accessory; it was used for the emergency brake from my 3 other scale models. Unfortunately, I had no more, so I had to buy one. I could not find a used one, I bought a new one in England. Ordered on January 17, delivered on January 19. 5 minutes after I got it, it was already destroyed to get that cable which will be used as a gaining for the front brakes.
It was indeed a gamble: is the medium still the same as it was many years ago? Same diameter? Fortunately, yes!

[MODEL A MODEL]

Oh, that is what you wanted.

I have some short lengths of that stuff, but they came from something else. I have saved them for years. Figuring that they would be useful someday. If you need more, let me know.

-Don

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yes, it was that! Thanks for your offer; for the moment, I have enough material. However I'm welcoming any suggestion, see below:

Sometimes, I have good ideas, but this time the realization is not following the theory. I bought 0.05 mm thick brass to make the cooling fins for the radiator. Making the wavy bands went finally well, but the soldering on the basis plate is not going very well. I had almost one week to do and solder about 25 bands and the result is deceiving. To complete the basis plate I would need about 130 more fins and this would be just one side of the core, the same should be done for the other side. With a nice look and good alignment of the bands, I would continue, but I'm realizing* that I cannot do better.
I'm putting the radiator on side; I hope to get a better idea soon...
Yes, 3-D printing would be a solution, but then it's a machine which is doing the work, too easy!

[PaulPK]

Nice try. Hard to tell from the photo but are they all the same height? If they are, maybe use a piece of aluminum to push downward while applying heat.

The hole alignment issue is the other challenge. Seems like you need a set of alignment pins. I wonder how they manufacture the real thing?

[Roger Zimmermann]

With the heat to attempt the soldering, the backing plate got warped, this is why all bands are not at the same height. This is a minor problem as I could file or sand them to have a flat appearance. This rework has also a negative effect: the rework is creating a smudge (is that the right word?) giving the illusion that the metal is three time as thick as the metal used for the fins.
Yes, the alignment is the main issue. I could construct a device to maintain a proper distance, but the method used to shape the fins does not guarantee that the bands are exactly all the same.
If you do the same scale 1:1 , it's much easier to control everything.
I tried to use an instant glue. Does not work with such a small contact surface...

[MODEL A MODEL]

Impressive start!

An idea I have not tried, to pre-tin the entire surface of the back plate. That is to create an even layer of solder upon the base. Then place your strips onto that while "cold", fixture as best you can, perhaps cut to purpose soldering board? Fixture cannot be taller than strips because I would then set on top of all this a thin plate of glass. Finally moving your torch, with a soft flame or even a large soldering iron methodically around the back, working from underneath. Doing it all at one go, but centimeter by centimeter.

?