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    1. Kit: , by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: May 2022 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  (4 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 8
      Started: 07-26-19 Build Revisions: Never  
      Supported Scratch Built

      Before the Mark II was finished, I was thinking that I need some rest and maybe stopping modeling completely.
      After a few months "without", I noticed that I'm missing something. But, what to do? A new 10-years project is out of question, I need something less complex.
      After a while, it was clear that I had to do something with Cadillac. But what? The answer came rather quickly: a 1930 to 1933 Cadillac V-16 engine and frame, as a rolling frame.
      I have some contacts with people restoring the second version: 1932/33 which differs framewise from the first version 1930/31.
      I will have to do new things, like wire wheels! I searched in this forum for a tutorial, but found nothing. However , I do remember that somebody did recently (1 to 2 years) wire wheels. Can somebody tell me where to search?


      1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
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  1. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    In parallel to the shock absorbers, I continued with the RTV 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine product. All white walls are now done and, finally, I succeeded to have a decent pair of negative tire molds. Technically, I could directly cast the definitive tires with those molds, but it's too dangerous. If one of the negative mold is damaged, I can redo the whole scenario. At $55.00 for one kilo of the white RTV 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine , I don't take the chance. Therefore, I will continue with my "regular" process.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #842

  2. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    There is nothing now to report about the tires because in between I began something else: the front suspension. The shop manual is stating that the V-16 models have 10 leaves in the front; I did 10 leaves for each spring. As I could not buy spring steel the exact width I wanted, I had to make the material a bit narrower; I did that work in the room where my cars and parts are stored. After drilling the holes for the central bolt (this bold is used to assemble all the leaves and to locate the axle on the springs), I installed the springs and axle on the frame. I discovered an error (this is not the first one nor the last one!) at the clips attaching the front axle: they are too short. I can hardly install some nuts, but this error is not that bad: with all the leaves, when I put a weight of 0.7 kg over the front axle, the springs are flexing about 1 mm! In the real life, a weight over more than 2000 pound would lower the front end by 1/2". Sure, those cars were not as comfortable as recent ones, but my springs are definitively too stiff, therefore I will remove some leaves until I'm satisfied.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-418-front-suspension-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-419-front-suspension-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #843

  3. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    don
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    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #844

  4. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    don
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    Beautiful work. Very tight eyelets!

    Your models are always filled with the eye-catching details!

    A modeler's modeler!
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #845

  5. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Thanks Don! Indeed, the eyelets are rather tight: inside diameter 2.4mm (a tad under 0.1"). The material is stainless steel; I don't know if it's thermal treated; I tried one eyelet "as is" and another one after heating the tip of the leave. I have the impression that is was a tad easier.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #846

  6. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    As the negative molds were successfully done, I could cast the material into the recess to get the half positive molds. Right now, I don't know if this further step will be OK as many factors could lead to a disaster: the material can be uncured (it can happen), stick to the mold or air bubbles. I'm waiting another 24 hours to attempt the separation.
    People here already know the whole process; as I'm publishing this construction into the Cadillac LaSalle forum, members there are seeing it for the first time.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-420-doing-positive-molds-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #847

  7. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    SUCCESS! This morning, I separated the positive molds from the negative ones. At first, it was difficult to get the edges being separated; once I got that, the rest was easy. No bubble, all the material is well cured.
    The next step: doing the definitive negative molds with a product like polyester. The product I used to do the negative molds was no more available at the store I'm going; a different product is no offered. Will it be so good as the previous one? There is a fundamental difference: the old product got cured with the addition of 3% hardener. This product is used by mixing tow parts from one element to one part of another one. Certainly easier to mix with the right proportion, but how are the characteristics of the cured product? I will have to make a test with a very small quantity.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-421-positive-molds-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #848

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