1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine

[MODEL A MODEL]

Yes it would be very expensive, but, I think if we can educate wealthy patrons, show them that models like these are just like bespoke watches.

It is the only other activity that compares. A George Daniels watch? They are worth several 100 thousand dollars! (An extreme example)

When you look at all the things that wealthy people invest in? NFTs? Koi fish? Baseball cards? Comic books?

[MODEL A MODEL]

I forgot Crypto Currencies?

If you can get people to speculate on the proposed value of something, that something now has value.

[MODEL A MODEL]

If I were ever to fall into a great wealth, -I would outbid any one for an Olive, or a Baigent, or a Zimmermann!

Unfortunately, one, (me), falls into debt far more often than wealth!

[Roger Zimmermann]

It seems that we already discussed over value of such projects...This is not at all my motivation!

No, the engine is not completely finished, I just need to do something else. As we are getting towards better outside temperatures, it's a good idea the continue with the tires. I ordered some silicone products for that. I also ordered a bit of brass stock to make the mold for the white walls. All should come next week.
Fortunately for my, I did pictures when I did the tires for the Avanti and Mark II, it's easier to remember "how". And I spared some "tools": the cut can for the first stage and the plexiglass which will be used to separate both half-molds. This later element was used for the Mark II tires; as the Cadillac tires have a larger diameter, I will adapt it for this new usage.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Even if Switzerland is a small country, mail orders are taking time to arrive; the tires will begin later this week. In between, I finished what was still open: the rods going to the carbs. The rods themselves are not a big deal: a 0.8mm rod, bent more or less in the middle. But the small parts to attach the rods are taking time. As the carbs are not functional, I did a trunnion at each carb, soldered to the lever. The rods are just sliding through the trunnions, suppressing any length's adjustment. The pins at the other ends are not very large: the diameter is 0.8mm and a hole of 0.5mm was drilled for the cotter key (which will be just a rod). This does not let too much liberty, the hole must be in the middle!
The red paint on the LH rod is used to differentiate both rods as they don't have exactly the same shape.
There are also rods to operate the chokes. I will not do them now because the shaft to operate them is attached on the firewall. Maybe one day there will be one, maybe not...

[Roger Zimmermann]

One key element was missing for the tires: the master for the white wall. As the manufacturer is on it, I could not just do a negative pattern: I cannot carve the letters for the name. Therefore, as with my other tires, I will do the name with paint. This time, I will write "Firestone". The shape of the characters is not easy; maybe I will have to come back with "Good Year"...
On the picture, the master is just finished; that bit of brass is expensive: about $ 35.00. I'll have first to write the characters with a pencil and then apply the paint with a thin brush.

[MODEL A MODEL]

Hello Roger.

Maybe 30 years ago, I made Firestone tires for a 1/8th scale STP Turbine car. (The almost Indy winner from 1967.)

I used advertisements from the late 60's for the artwork, and I had a darkroom back then, so with a little effort I could make "Positive" and "Negative" negatives. Then borrowing from the Electronics guys, did some photoetching, as kits were readily available to those creating circuit-boards. I glued the logo onto my pattern and was pretty happy with the results.

Slicone molds do catch every little detail.

Or perhaps some rub-on decals? Services for creating those are not common, but they do exist. You might have to stack the decals to get the effect you want.

Or? of course, your last tire pattern did come out looking pretty spiffy! So why? -I forgot the French saying for making something too complicated.

[Roger Zimmermann]

On my 3 previous models, I used paint for the tire's brand. Why should change my "technique" for something I'm not convinced? If I would be strong at computer's design, I could create that word and photo-etch the characters. This method is out of my possibilities...

[Roger Zimmermann]

The next step was to put the name and dimension on the white wall pattern. The "Firestone" script is not an easy one; my attempt to sketch the characters on the tire went bad. Fortunately, I found in the net a script which was the size I wanted. The print I did with that was not very sharp; anyway, I could cut the letters with a cutter. I glued them on the brass with paint; once dry, I scratched the excess paint.
The method for the dimension was different: I used thick paint and applied it on the brass with a thin brush. Once the paint dry, I scratched the excess paint to have a decent script. It's not perfect, but will be good enough on the rubber.
Now, I can do the negative mold for the white wall elements.

[MODEL A MODEL]

[MODEL A MODEL]

Hello Roger! I had wanted to share a photo of some work I did last year, that was inspired by you and your skill at reproducing manufacturors logos. But I cannot find my picture.

Another fellow was preparing a rapid prototyped bit, that had the LYFT logo on it. -And the whole thing had been badly muddled, with too much primer , and then some lack of finesse. I was asked to restore or create anew the important icon, which I did, but only after seeing what you have shown to be possible.

Thank you for posting!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Getting older does not mean getting wiser...
The facts: I decided to make a mold for the white wall. From the Avanti/Mark II projects, I still had some RTV material; I prepare a batch to pour on the pattern. Usually, after two hours, the product begins to be very viscous; after 12 hours, the RTV is set.
This time, after 2 hours there was no change at the viscosity. Same after 6 hours and again no difference after 12 hours. To me, it was obvious that the product was indeed too old. I heated a bit the whole; not too much because of the paint for the letters. There was a slight change at the viscosity so I let it in a corner because as the material is still sticking at the pattern, it could take away the scripts.
I began the preparation to pour the first half-mold from the tire. This time, I used a fresh product, mixing 9 grams harder to 180 grams RTV silicone. After creating some vacuum with my hand pump, the material was poured into the form. This operation creating again trapped air, the vacuum pump came again in action. The most vacuum I can generate with this pump is 14 to 15" HG. Enough for the purpose, but very tiring for the hands.
After one hour, I took the recipient out from the desiccator. After two hours, the viscosity did not change. I went to bed; the next morning, still no change. I was a bit upset and wanted to call the supplier. Just before that call, I had again a look at the syringe. The are two marks, 1 and 2 and 10 smaller lines in between. Suddenly, I saw my error: each mark is not 10 grams, but ONE gram! Therefore, the mix had just 1/10th of the necessary harder quantity! No wonder it cannot be set...
I have a similar problem with the tire pattern: there will be no paint on the surface, but the product in the uncured state is sticky. How can I remove the remaining material on the surface and, more important in the tread? I will put it on side for some weeks; maybe the small quantity of harder will be sufficient to set the RTV .
As I'm blocked with my own stupidity, I ordered some material to do the springs. Of course, it's not available right now. Therefore, I will begin the shock absorbers...

[MODEL A MODEL]

Hello Roger, I have poured a lot of RTV over the years and done some experimenting. I have been told that if there is some catalyst present, and if it has been evenly mixed into the solution, -it will cure , eventually. Don't let it get cool, place it in a warm cabinet but don't forget it. I don't know how long you'll have to wait?

If you decide to start over, be prepared for a small mess.

I have not had issues with RTV , but I once laid up some fiber-glass, a boomerang shaped panel about 2 meters long. A subtle shape, graceful, and I was very pleased with myself at how well I had got the cloth to lay down "just right", with a minimum of resin .

The next morning as I walked up to my workplace, I discovered the catalyst, measured out, in its cup, on the scale, unused!

Oops!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Well, I see I'm not alone with errors!
The mess with uncured material is the reason why I'm not in a rush to try to remove the parts to be molded. I will be away for two weeks; maybe there will be some "progress" with the curing process...

[MODEL A MODEL]

On the advice of counsel, I do not here admit to having been involved in the following event, however, I may have been present when another modeler placed a slow curing mold into a pressure pot, fitted with an electric "blanket", to provide warmth and no doubt make the mold feel safe and appreciated!

This did indeed encourage the molding rubber to cure , but it also induced some warpage. RTV will at room temperature remain very stable. Most do not shrink much, and so are reliably trusted to capture dimensionally accurate volumetric and surface details. However, if heated? If heated the RTV will swell. This can be used to great effect in a closed mold used to form and cure Prepreg Carbon Fiber, but in a solitary mold? it will capture the surface detail of the object molded, while in an expanded state, and then outside of the mold container, and returned to ambient temperatures, it will "shrink" and the surface details will then be distorted.

Again with the advise of counsel, I have not been involved in any such action, but relate it here as was told to me by others, who may or may not exist!