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    1. Kit: , by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: Aug 2022 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  (4 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 8
      Started: 07-26-19 Build Revisions: Never  
      Supported Scratch Built

      Before the Mark II was finished, I was thinking that I need some rest and maybe stopping modeling completely.
      After a few months "without", I noticed that I'm missing something. But, what to do? A new 10-years project is out of question, I need something less complex.
      After a while, it was clear that I had to do something with Cadillac. But what? The answer came rather quickly: a 1930 to 1933 Cadillac V-16 engine and frame, as a rolling frame.
      I have some contacts with people restoring the second version: 1932/33 which differs framewise from the first version 1930/31.
      I will have to do new things, like wire wheels! I searched in this forum for a tutorial, but found nothing. However , I do remember that somebody did recently (1 to 2 years) wire wheels. Can somebody tell me where to search?


      1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
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  1. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Don, as you can see, I removed the head stock...

    To do the thread, I choose to fit 7 bands, even if the Firestone has 8. Why? Because I have to split my tire in the middle; the separation line will be on top of the middle band, which is easier to clean.
    I cut 7 bands a bit longer than the circumference to be on the safe side. I did 3 assemblies by soft soldering twice two bands and one assembly with 3 band. This will shorten the machining a lot.
    By looking at the original tire's thread, I saw that the zig-zag is not at 90, but approximately at 120. The milling tool on the picture as an angle of about 110, good enough for my purpose.
    As the head stock from the lathe was in the way, I had to remove it. Of course, I can only machine the brass which is secured with the jaws. After about 45mm, I have to position anew the assembly, taking care that the pitch is still correct.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-362-milling-thread-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #752

  2. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    When I began the planning for the "mother" tire, I felt that the zig-zag thread was a good idea. Now, I hate it! The pitch was small: 1 mm. The tire without thread was not flat, but convex. At first, I soft soldered the middle band. As the brass piece is rather heavy, it took a long time to heat the brass to solder the band. Once soldered, I had to remove the excess solder which was into the zig-zag, which took a long time. Then came the positioning of the next band. Ideally, the spikes should face the recess from the first band. As the milling was not creating a 100% exact pitch, I began to get in trouble, plus the fact that the next band is slightly shorter due to the shape of the tire. The first two bands positioned at each side from the first one were not too problematic but the next two were that bad that I did 3 pieces for each trying to have the correct figure. Finally, both at the outside of the tire have been soldered without looking too much at the other ones, except for the spacing.
    The picture is showing the master tire after the last soldering operation; the plier on the right was used to rotate the tire during the soldering. I will now have to clean the assembly and trim the sides, with the hope that the thin bands will stay soldered.
    In conclusion, not my best tire pattern.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-363-thread-soldered-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #753

  3. happyfreddy's Avatar Established Member
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    By the way Roger ............
    When I remember You are doing exact the same at the Continental model with the tires.
    For they are in same scale I think the measurements of the tires are also the same.
    So , why do You not use the old " brass masters " instead of bulding new ones ???
    QUOTE QUOTE #754

  4. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The tires for the Mark II were 8.20-15. The ones for this model are 7.50-18. Yes, same scale, same bias-ply tires, but the dimensions are different. The new ones have a larger outside diameter but are narrower. There is another reason why I cannot modify the Continental master: I sold it to a guy located in the US! As I was sure that the Continental was my last model, I had no reason to think I would reconsider my decision!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #755

  5. happyfreddy's Avatar Established Member
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    Decisions are made to change them some day .......
    and so it happens
    QUOTE QUOTE #756

  6. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    That's right, Freddy!

    Finally, the tread is not too bad. As for most every bias-ply tires, there are ribs on the side. When looking at the Firestone picture, the side ribs are in phase with the zig-zag from the tread. I decided that it would be foolish to attempt it; I'm just doing about 160 indentations without trying to match the zig-zag; there are about 215 at the outer circumference.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-364-machining-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #757

  7. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The main job of the brass tire is over. As I wrote earlier, the manufacturer's name will be on the white part of the tire. I'm happy with the Good Year tires I have on my models, negligible wear, not noisy, no cracks and still supple after all those years. I will however change the manufacturer by using the Firestone name.
    I had the foolish idea to make separate letters in brass; some would be easy (i, t, n); e, s would be more difficult. I began with the "F" just to see that the crisp angles are something I cannot do with the tools I have. An engraver could probably do them all, but it's a profession for itself with very specific tools I don't have.
    I will therefore come back to the old method I used with success: paint.
    I'll need now material to continue with the tires: silicone and some brass to do the mold for the white wall. I will not bother suppliers before the end of the year; I'll look next year for that missing material.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #758

  8. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    don
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    Hello Roger,

    -I don"t recall, had you any difficulty slipping your tires onto your rims?
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #759

  9. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    No, Don, because the diameter's difference between the outside diameter and the inside one is rather small, on purpose. For this model: 41.8 v/s 39 mm.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #760

  10. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Sometimes it's better to put something on side and continue with it later. It's now happening with the tires, I will resume this adventure later.
    As there are still plenty things to do, I'm not "jobless"! I'm continuing with the distributor. There will be plenty to do...I began with the support. I wondered first why this support was so long; after a while I understood that a shorter support would interfere with the fan support. Fortunately, my dimension estimates/calculated are not too far away, there is just enough space between both supports.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-365-distributor-support-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #761

  11. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The ignition system from those engines were a bit different than the ones from the fifties-seventies. The distributor houses indeed two ignition systems, one for each bank; two ignition coils are also used. Once the ground setting was done with the pointer at the flywheel, it was also possible to advance or retard the timing in degrees thanks to a scale attached to the distributor support. A pointer, integrated to the distributor itself allowed to get the desired setting as shown on the first picture.
    With 16 ignition wires, it was certainly easy to have a cable mess. To avoid it, an organizer was integrated at the base of the distributor. From there, the wires went into a tube and emerged from it at the desired location.
    The organizer and the lower plate locking the distributor were chromed and assembled with screws or rivets. To avoid the proliferation of small parts, those items on the model are soft soldered to the main body; this assembly will be chromed and what originally was not chromed will be painted.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-366-quadrant-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-367-wires-organizer-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-368-wires-organizer-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-369-distr-base-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #762

  12. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The last tiny parts to the distributor were added yesterday, just at time for the year's end. It was however too late to make the update, but today is an appropriate day for that: it let time to evaporate the alcohol 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine absorbed the evening before!
    The distributor cap is attached to the body with two strong springs. My rendering of that is rather crude from very near, but by looking at a distance the illusion is almost perfect.
    Like all distributor caps, the central plot is from the ignition coil's secondary circuit. On V-12 and V-16, there is a second plot for the other coil. Under the cap, there is a ring to conduct the voltage at the appropriate spark wire via a specific rotor.
    On the real distributor, there is an oiling provision on the side for the cam. This is also replicated on "my" distributor, as well as both contacts on the side going to the primary circuit of the coils.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-370-distributor-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-371-distributor-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #763

  13. Bugatti Fan's Avatar Established Member
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    Roger, I like the idea of yours of making the inner wheel diameters slightly smaller than the outers to assist with the fitting of the tyres.
    QUOTE QUOTE #764

  14. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    At the end of the year, I did both ignition coils and their support. Those rather easy parts were finished when I began to look at restored cars. Something catch my eye: the ignition coils are not behind the fan, they are located at the the radiator!
    The coils were wrongly installed on the fan support when the frame and engine came to the Netherland to be restored. As Johan did pictures from all the elements before he began the work, I was fooled by those pictures!
    Those coil's supports will be removed and, in due time, the coils added to the radiator.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-372-ignition-coils-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #765

  15. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Question? -Oh yeah, HAPPY NEW YEAR ROGER! -question? will you be drilling the distributor cap for wiring?

    I have to go to work, but just quickly scanned through the last 12 pages of your postings, my gosh you have done a lot of work!!!!

    Oops! Got to go!
    Last edited by MODEL A MODEL; 01-14-22 at 10:29 AM.
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #766

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