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    1. Kit: , by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: Nov 2019 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  Thanks: 2
      Started: 07-26-19 Build Revisions: Never  
      Supported Scratch Built

      Before the Mark II was finished, I was thinking that I need some rest and maybe stopping modeling completely.
      After a few months "without", I noticed that I'm missing something. But, what to do? A new 10-years project is out of question, I need something less complex.
      After a while, it was clear that I had to do something with Cadillac. But what? The answer came rather quickly: a 1930 to 1933 Cadillac V-16 engine and frame, as a rolling frame.
      I have some contacts with people restoring the second version: 1932/33 which differs framewise from the first version 1930/31.
      I will have to do new things, like wire wheels! I searched in this forum for a tutorial, but found nothing. However , I do remember that somebody did recently (1 to 2 years) wire wheels. Can somebody tell me where to search?


      1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
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  1. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    don
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    Parallax and perspective. Inner spokes and outer spokes often do not have the same pattern but around the circumference the pattern should be found to be symmetrical. Torsional, lateral and drive forces are common to wheels, but the solutions are varied.
    Last edited by MODEL A MODEL; 10-25-19 at 12:11 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #17

  2. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Mmmm...Thanks for the pictures. The Duesenberg wheel is similar to the Cad one, but the other two have a different pitch. You get aware of the differences when you try to draw a wheel!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #18

  3. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    There is some progress with that project. I have the repro shop manual and parts book; early August, Christine and me drove 530 miles one way to measure and take pictures from a 1933 V-16 frame and engine, just before the body was put on the frame. As usual when so many dimensions can be have, I forgot some essential ones, but I will survive.
    I will indeed begin with the wheels. On the 3 other models I did, there were just steel wheels reproduced in brass and, for the Toronado, with aluminum. This is quite different for this model: wire wheels. They are much more complex than usual wheels; this will be an adventure in itself!
    Due to other things I have now, I'm slow to begin the construction. I began the first part on September 8, a front hub, which is now in fabrication. The attached picture is showing it, but the part is not yet finished.




    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #19

  4. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    I'm switching between the dash work from my '72 Coupe de Ville, scale 1:1 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine and now the construction from that scale model. The 4 hubs are done and I began the drums. All four are the same wich is a simplification. As usual, I'm working with brass, a so super material on a small lathe! The raw slice has a weight of 120 grams; the finished drum has a weight of 14 grams! They would be perfect candidates for casting 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine , unfortunately, I'm not able to do that.

    The first drum is almost finished: I must add 8 reinforcement ribs; they will be done when the other 3 drums are born. Compared to the previous drums I did, they are huge!






    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #20

  5. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The 4 drums are ready (minus the 8 ribs which will be added later) and attached temporarily with the hubs.



    The hubs themselves are far from ready; an original assembly is also shown.



    I began with the wheel's hubs, a difficult task. Those parts are stamped steel, I have to do them on the lathe with multiple operations and tool changes. The rear inner side from the first hub is ready; some work with hand held chisel is required which can be dangerous as you may imagine.




    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #21

  6. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The rear part of the hub for the six wheels is done.



    To help to understand what I'm trying to replicate, I'm adding a picture from a real wheel.



    Now, I will begin to machine the hub's front.
    To facilitate the manufacturing, I'm doing on each part the same group of operations. I just hope that I will not have bad surprises!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #22

  7. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Sometimes it's good to wait to perform some task. While the drums were in work, I wanted to do the 8 (!) holes per wheel for the studs. I'm now glad I did them not.
    While I began to machine the first wheel hub at the front, I had to modify some dimensions. With the calculated bolt circle, it would have been very difficult to "torque" the nuts because they would be very near from the hub's outer diameter. Therefore, I reduced a tad the bold circle and, instead of the 1.2 mm studs, I will use smaller ones: 1 mm. With eight per wheel, the risk to loose a wheel is reduced!
    I also enlarged the aperture for the hub cap by 1 mm to have a better access to the wheel nuts.



    If you are looking at the attached picture and older ones, you will notice that I'm using now a 4-jaws chuck. I had to do the change because with the original one (which is well worn), I could not have a piece turning true.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #23

  8. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The wheel hubs were machined inside; to work the outside, I had to make a special tool. The hubs will be attached with the studs to the tool and then the work at the outside will be possible. This may be abstract for the moment; you will understand when I can show the process.



    On that picture, you can see that I'm machining a cone. I suppose that the wire wheels were rather flexible and unstable; the hub with the bearings has the same cone (not so wide) and the wheel hub is resting on that cone to enhance the stability. I attempted to reproduce this characteristic, however, for the usage of the model, this extra work is more a futility than a real need.

    As I had to do the threaded holes into te tool, I used the opportunity to use the setting of the drilling machine to drill the needed holes into the drums and wheel hubs. There were a lot of holes: 6 wheel hubs @ 8 holes, 4 drums @ 8 holes and the special tool also with 8 holes!
    The reduced bolt circle is exactly what I expected; I will have room into the wheel hubs to "torque" the nuts attaching the wheels.




    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #24

  9. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger, on eBay there is posted an old Rolls Royce wheel hub that may be of similar design.

    Sorry for not being able to post a photo, I am still without computer and am using my phone to remain connected to the 21st century

    Look for

    Rolls-Royce Springfield Silver Ghost Hub and Wheel center
    QUOTE QUOTE #25

  10. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Back again, Don! I was missing you...
    You are right, the design is similar. As I had a wheel to measure and photography, I'm on my way to go ahead. Those wheels are just requiring a lot of machining, but I like it!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #26

  11. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Still using the lathe...I'm adding the picture showing the drum's drilling.



    When this was done, I began to machine the wheel hubs. Now, you can see for what the special tool is used; the lathe was not turning when I took the picture because the tool must be hold with both hands.



    The last picture is showing an almost finished wheel hub.



    Why "almost"? Because there are 40 holes for the spokes which must be drilled.
    I began each wheel hub using a bit of brass weighting 80 grams. The finished part has a weight of 6 grams! I cannot say that it's very economical!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #27

  12. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    After I finished the wheel hubs, I saw that I did a mistake at the drums. When the wheel is installed on the drum, the wheel hub is going into a recess from the drum, with a small gap between hub and drum. The gap I had was way out of line. What to do? redo again 4 drums? No. I cut a band of brass, shaped it like a ring and soldered on the drum. On the attached picture, the joint can be seen; once paint will be applied, this misshapen will not be seen. The fin is on the right, ready to be soldered.
    I milled 8 slots into the drum to help for the location of the reinforcement fins. I realized then that those fins are very small and difficult to held for soldering. Therefore, for the next parts, I did the fins much longer and milled a fracture groove. The tail is a help to handle the part during doing it and to held the fins during soldering. Once soldered, the tail can be broken away. I now have just 30 to do!




    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #28

  13. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The drums are now ready; I had almost more time to do the fins and solder them to the drums as turning the drums themselves (but with lass waste!). The hubs are now attached to the drums; it will allow me to continue the details on the hubs; an original one can be seen on post #21.




    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #29

  14. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    If November is the season's end for old cars driving, it's now the good season for modelling! The original hubs are made with cast iron; as I cannot cast parts, I have to machine them to try to give the same aspect; this is what I began. That picture is showing the hub in work with a dentist mill.



    And here a finished hub. Indeed, I could spare this work because once the wheel is installed, the hub cannot be seen!




    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #30

  15. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    With the drums, hubs and wheel hubs ready, the logical continuation is the rims. By accident, I discovered that the original wheel I had during my stay in Germany was most probably from a V-12 car (18" for the V-16 and 17" for the V-12). By making comparisons with the excellent drawing in the shop manual, I saw that the proportions are not right. Further, by substracting from the nominal wheel diameter the exterior rim diameter, I came to an absurd thickness for the sheetmetal. Suddenly, my wheels have an increased diameter of 2mm (a difference of 1" is giving 2 mm at this scale)! By chance, I did the verification before all was finished!
    This discrepancy is explaining why I had a too large pocket diameter at the drum: the wheel hubs are also different! No, I will not do 6 new wheel hubs, nobody will notice that error.
    In my material, I found a "tube" made with brass. I will have to take away some material (the tube has a weight of 1.1kg); I had to close one end to be able to reduce the outside diameter.



    That huge piece of brass is totally disproportioned compared to the lathe!



    If you are good looking at the last picture, you can see metal chips near the cutting tool: this small machine has an automatic advance which I very seldom use; after I cleaned the old grease, I could let it do the work. Between each cut, I must let cool the machine…




    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #31

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