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    1. Kit: , by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: Jun 2020 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  (2 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 3
      Started: 07-26-19 Build Revisions: Never  
      Supported Scratch Built

      Before the Mark II was finished, I was thinking that I need some rest and maybe stopping modeling completely.
      After a few months "without", I noticed that I'm missing something. But, what to do? A new 10-years project is out of question, I need something less complex.
      After a while, it was clear that I had to do something with Cadillac. But what? The answer came rather quickly: a 1930 to 1933 Cadillac V-16 engine and frame, as a rolling frame.
      I have some contacts with people restoring the second version: 1932/33 which differs framewise from the first version 1930/31.
      I will have to do new things, like wire wheels! I searched in this forum for a tutorial, but found nothing. However , I do remember that somebody did recently (1 to 2 years) wire wheels. Can somebody tell me where to search?


      1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
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  1. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    With the help from Johan located in the Netherlands, I could position the various body and running board supports. Indeed, those supports for the 143" V-16 wheelbase are located at the same place as for the 134" V-8 wheelbase.
    When the ordered cooper rivets will come, there will be some hammering to do!
    Now, I will do the rear support for the rear springs. A very complex casting 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine .


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    Attached Images Attached Images 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-140-body-supports-jpg 
    QUOTE QUOTE #272

  2. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    don
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    Roger, none of us ever mention the time spent in research, or in our making plans? -Either working drawings made quickly, or drafted out complete prints. -But you went into this project so quickly! -or so it seemed to me. -To my point, you do work fast! with lots of confidence, you appear to know exactly how to proceed at every turn. Gathering all the information, all the dimensions for a chassis, lengths, depths, angles, . . . do you sleep?
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #273

  3. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Roger
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    Before I began, I bought repro shop manuals for 30/31 and 32/33 as I still had no clue which year I would build. They are not very thick, about 120 pages each, but there are nice drawings which help a lot.
    Then I began to exchange emails with Johan, a man who is restoring such vehicles. He just restored the 1933 V-16 engine and frame, the one I had the possibility to see in Germany. He has also a lot of pictures from a 1932 V-8 during removing parts, and after the work done, plus about the same for the 1933 V-16. This is why I choose 1932 for the number of pictures. With some exceptions, the 1933 is identical; one major difference is the wheels are 1" smaller which I did not knew when I was in Germany. I choose 1932 because I don't like the grille and front bumper from the 1933 model.
    In the 1932/33 manual, there is a V-8 frame drawing which has the same look as for the V-16, the later being 1" deeper. Unfortunately, the drawing is small: I had to multiply its dimensions by 3.28 to get the model's dimensions. There are key dimensions noted in the book, just not enough!
    I took a lot of dimensions in Germany; some important were leftover unfortunately. Anyway, at the end, if a bracket is misplaced by 1 or 2mm, nobody will notice!
    The fact is that I'm using sometimes more time to design a part as to do it. Plus, I'm not working all the time on the model and I'm sleeping well at night and long enough!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #274

  4. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Good!

    It is a well known fact that modelers need their sleep!
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #275

  5. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    To help to understand the task I will do, I'm showing two pictures from that rear support, scale 1:1 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine .

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-arri-re-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-arri-re4-jpg

    You can see that taking dimensions is rather difficult as almost nothing is straight. From the shop manual, I have 2 dimensions: the axle distance to the axle from the front support for the springs and the distance from the top of the frame to the axle. I Germany, I took some dimensions which will help. To have a better idea, I did a drawing scale 1:1 1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine from that part, comparing the sketch to the many pictures I have. When I was more or less satisfied, I began to cut some brass. I did a major concept error: I did the holes for the axles and attempted to glue on the frame the flat piece I had. This method was indeed unpractical; I did the beginn of the part by screwing on the frame and then I could locate the hole.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-141-frame-jpg

    The next step was to add the rounded element on which the bearing will be silver soldered.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-142-frame-jpg

    In the meantime, I got the cooper rivets. They are good looking (like rivets!) and the material is very soft. The inconvenient: they are too long. I could shorten them with a file, but for more than 150 pieces, I will be mad long before all are ready. I will to a tool to insert the rivets from the back and put the tool into the lathe. This method should help to have a consistent length for all rivets. I just have to build that tool; this will be done after the supports for the rear springs are finished.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #276

  6. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Hello Roger,

    -if you have or can make some stock that's the correct length you could drill that to hold batches of rivets, and mill off the offending surplus?
    (student telling the teacher)

    How are you going to compress the rivets? I will be making the Bugatti dashboard eventually, and I will be working with Copper rivets eventually. Do you know if the rivets are pure Copper, or is there a "softer" alloy? -I think I have heard of a specially soft alloy, but I can't find anything in my searches.

    Thanks for sharing! You and Ken, really help the rest of us in thinking and planning our work.

    -Don
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #277

  7. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Don, I got the same idea from Australia (from the Cadillac forum)!
    I will "compress" the rivets with a hammer, making similar tools as I used to rivet the running board support. I found the brass rather soft for those smaller rivets, but the cooper ones are way softer. I don't know if there are pure copper or an alloy. You will know soon how it's going!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #278

  8. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The rear spring supports were continued by adding the pre-drilled flange on which the rear bumper will be attached and the flange on the side for the last cross member. I'm now fitting the bearing for the shackles.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-143-frame-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #279

  9. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The supports for the rear springs and bumper are now done. These small parts are indeed an assembly by silver soldering of 8 distinct parts. The last to be added were the 3 ribs near the bearing. They were soldered once at the time and each time most of the soldering became liquid. Thank to the properties of the silver solder, nothing was shifted. Of course, soldering the various parts cannot be done with a rod but with the paste.
    Now, I can play with the rivets!

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-144-frame-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #280

  10. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    It's good that you are documenting these details. Unfortunately later, when an uninformed person views your model, they will marvel at the spoke wheels, or the tires. -I am sure your work on the engine will be your usual standard, but they might not know or understand, that so much effort goes into the making of every component!
    Thank you for sharing!
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #281

  11. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Thanks Don. You are resuming the reality very well!


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #282

  12. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The last few days, I "installed" about 40 rivets. Finally, I used the method from Bruce to shorten the rivets, doing 9 each time. 2 rivets were lost when they escape from the tweezers, not to be found! I noticed that a too long rivet is more detrimental than a shorter one. Riveting at the flange is also possible with the appropriate "emboss". The rivets have an head a bit larger than what they should; the rivet is therefore inserted from the inside of the channel; what will be mostly visible has now a correct diameter.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-145-riveting-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-146-riveting-jpg1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-147-riveting-jpg

    I will now begin the fifth and last cross member It's shape is not too difficult but it will not be done in one piece as I cannot stamp it: it would require a very large tool, it makes no sense for just one part.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #283

  13. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The last cross-member is similar to the rear support for the suspension: difficult to measure, and far from easy to fabricate. When I had draw the profile with the main dimensions, I had a long time to decide which way to begin.
    A picture from the original element is attached to the report; it's looking so easy to do!

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-crossmember5-jpg

    There was already some rationalization at that time: the last cross-member had a provision to attach a spare wheel at the back, or a luggage carrier, depending of the body. It has also a single bracket in the middle to attach the fuel tank: the cross-member #4 has the two other brackets for the tank.

    I'm also adding a picture from my part, it's temporarily attached by screws to the frame. This part is indeed an assembly from two elements, silver soldered. It's easy to understand that the cross-member is not yet ready.

    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine-148-cross-jpg


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #284

  14. MODEL A MODEL's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Your Copper Rivets look very nice! Both ends look to have formed perfect domes!
    -craftsmanship is a lifelong project of
    self-construction and self determination
    QUOTE QUOTE #285

  15. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Thanks Don! They are perfect on the pictures; you certainly know that pictures are lying!
    Anyway, they are good enough for the purpose. Once there will be some paint on the frame, all the small irregularities will disappear.


    1:12 1932 Cadillac V-16 frame and engine
    QUOTE QUOTE #286

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