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    1. Kit: , by (Yearly Subscriber) Roger Zimmermann is offline
      Builder Last Online: Nov 2019 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/12 Rating:  Thanks: 1
      Started: 06-10-19 Build Revisions: Never  
      Supported Scratch Built Completed

      Since a boy, I was always fascinated by cars. There were some cars in the small village at the countryside where I grow up, especially VWs (I will never understand why this ugly thing, noisy, unpractical was sold in such quantities). I believe that one of both grocers from the village had a early fifties green 2-door Chevrolet; this was probably the king of the village!

      Ironically, my parents had no car et never had one. If by chance a Studebaker was parked at one of both caf駸 from that 300 inhabitant's village, I could stay hour(s) to look at it. The 1950 model was the one which started it all.

      We are going forwards for some years: in 1963, the Studebaker Avanti was shown at the Geneva Show; I'm sure that I was a nuisance for the stand's personal as I could not away from this stand!

      I will not relate here all my attempts to recreate cars during my youth using cardboard and a frame done with the Meccano kit. The last vehicle done with this hybrid material was a 1963 Chrysler. I did for this model an innovation: by wetting the cardboard, it could be better shaped in both directions at once.

      After the Geneva show adventure, I had to replicate this Avanti. At that time, I was 18 years old; my father, a wood worker, had not the right tools for my needs. Anyway, I began to do a frame using as a guide the image from the sales catalog I reluctantly got in Geneva. My father had some galvanized sheetmetal; I used that for that frame.
      Why did I choose the scale 1:12? Probably because the available skinny Meccano wheels were suitable for that scale. The construction went muck quicker than what I did in the recent years; there were less details and the resemblance was...marginal at best!

      I was proud from my front suspension and steering system miles away from the reality:

      The main idea was to do again a body using my "new" technique with wet cardboard. However, one of my colleague at the apprenticeship told me that I would get much better results using polyester and fiberglass (he was living in a town and me in the countryside, what a difference!). It was totally new for me and I had to do my experiences with that product. A small story about it I still remember: the instructions stated that it was important to have about 25ーC to allow the polyester to set. I waited that my parents went away a Sunday afternoon to heat like hell the furnace in the living room using wood to get the desired temperature, even more, for my first experience. As it was probably autumn or winter, all windows were closed. I still hear the exclamations from my parents about the heat and the bad smelling when they came back!
      I learned quickly enough that a positive mold was necessary as first. Then, as a second step, a negative form should be done using the positive mold. Finally, the negative mold is to be used to get the final part. How easy it was with cardboard: not overheating needed, no bad smell and quickly done!
      How could I do the positive mold? I choose probably by accident the plaster. Not the one used by the sculptors but the cheap one to do walls and ceilings!
      It's easy to work with once it's dry (sometimes too easy) and it's doing a lot of dust. This later aspect was not important, the shop from my father was full of wood dust. A little more did not matter.

      The first result:

      Me at work, probably 1965 or 1966:

      The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti
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  1. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Nowadays, it's effectively easy via Internet to get to many info which were not available so easily 20 or 30 years ago. It's hard to believe that no real BMW 2002 is available for pictures.
    I had the luck to find good restoration pictures for my Mark II project, plus the fact that 4 cars were at 15 km from home!
    It will be a tad more difficult for my next project: 1932 Cadillac V-16. Anyway, I could take dimensions and many pictures early August in north of Germany. It makes a difference if you are taking the pictures yourself or if you are getting photos from somebody else because you can photography the details which are interesting for you.

    The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti
    QUOTE QUOTE #122

  2. happyfreddy's Avatar Established Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Roger , in my case i had luck to get from members of BMW clubs a blueprint copy 1:10 with detailed measure
    points in mm.
    From another member I got the complete foto documention of restauring act in every detail.
    When started with the idea there was in town a restaured 2002 from which I took many pics from outside
    the car, but the interesting parts could not be taken except when buying the car as it was. The difficulty at this
    model is the self carrying ponton chassis never to compare with You cars with frame and body. So the very interesting
    parts are hidden because of use of stabilisation double metal sheets in different locations.
    When transfered to a 1:8 model You must look where You can divide the model unvisitable between roof and body for
    handling inside components. Another difficulty are the door windows without any surrounded frame. Itエs only moved glass.
    So my brain phase how to do is not finished.........

    but following Your fotos gave me a lot of insprirations ..... surely , so many thanks !
    QUOTE QUOTE #123

  3. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Bodies from car without a separate frame are indeed much more complicated.
    You had luck to get pictures from a car during its restoration.
    All 3 models I did don't have a metal frame welded to the door. This design requires a more complicated system to guide the glass, but it can be done. If I'm right, the 2002 has a vent window which is used also as a guide for the front part of the glass. Don't remember if the side glass is flat or curved; curved glass is just adding some difficulties!

    The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti
    QUOTE QUOTE #124

  4. happyfreddy's Avatar Established Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Roger, I have little luck, the door glass is flat and for there is no electric movement
    I will do it same way as in original.
    QUOTE QUOTE #125

  5. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Mechanical window are always simpler!

    February 21, 2010

    Ah ! Those plastic tools…The axle at the handle broke. Repaired. The axle at the plunger partially broke. Repaired. Sometimes later, the other axle broke; was repaired with brass. At the next break-down, I will have to replace it and buy another one in metal.

    Obviously those plastic pumps are just good for demonstration.

    It goes forward !

    Yesterday, I was ready to pour some polyester resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti into the negative molds.

    A piece of cardboard was shaped as a tube as a barrier for the liquid resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti , sealed on a piece of flat brass with tape. Then I sprayed some wax to facilitate the removal from the brass.

    Just after the resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti was poured:

    The green color is accidental, the resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti is clear: to measure the resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti quantity, I did a small spoon with brass; the chemicals into the polyester reacted with the brass and gave this green tone.

    THE question : how many air bubbles will be trapped into the tire’s grooves? The answer will be available when the resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti will be set.

    I did that exercise into the flat because it was too cold outside to do it there. I could not wait for summertime !

    The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti
    QUOTE QUOTE #126

  6. Roger Zimmermann's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
    Join Date
    May 2012
    February 22, 2010
    Good result !

    This morning, I removed the half white tires (or positive molds) from the resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti . All is good, no bubbles, no major issue!

    In between, the odor in the flat went away, no war will be declared!

    You may wonder why there is a brass ring into each half mold. As the specific weight from the white silicone is near from 1, but I don’t know the one from the polyester resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti ; I suppose it’s higher than one. To avoid that the half white tires are floating into the resin The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti , I added some weight to keep them down.

    February 27, 2010
    Things are getting serious

    All what I explained before were the necessary steps to fabricate tires. Now, as the hard molds are ready, it’s time to make the first attempt to get a tire. The half forms are put together and attached with tape to avoid that the silicone is escaping. I did an aperture at the top to pour the silicone.

    Honestly, I had doubts about the issue (one failure from time to time is keeping the ego at the right level, isn' it?): the silicone is too thick and is taking a too long time to flow down; the mix begins to set after about 1 hour. During the process to remove the air, I saw a lot of bubbles at the top wich would not burst. I’m not feeling well…

    This morning : I attempted to separate the mold from the tire which went without difficulties.

    However, my fear was justified : a lot of silicone is missing at the top.

    This tire cannot be used, but just for the fun, I put a white wall insert and assembled the tire on a wheel,

    and I installed the wheel on the model.

    I believe that the tire has a too large outside diameter, about 1mm. Maybe after some mileage, this will be down !

    After this first attempt, I had to revise the method to get a good tire.

    At first I’m pouring the material into both half molds.

    After about 2 hours, the silicone is almost set, but not quite. At this moment, I’m assembling both molds and squeezing the excess silicone with a lot of pressure. Some weight on the assembly prevents the upper part to lift and draw air.

    Tomorrow I will have the answer!

    The story about my 1:12 Studebaker Avanti
    QUOTE QUOTE #127

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