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    1. Kit: Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville, by (Yearly Subscriber) ThierryD86 is offline
      Builder Last Online: Sep 2019 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  (1 votes - 5.00 average) Thanks: 6
      Started: 09-10-16 Build Revisions: Never  
      Supported Includes Transkit Restoration Attribution
      Build in Progress



      Hello

      As I said in my introduction on this forum, 26 years have passed since I've begun the assembly of this precious and rare model, and 24 since I abandonned it on the shelf, gathering dust and rust.
      Recently, I woke up, and decided to re-start it, and, if possible, achieve it.
      I disassembled entirely the model and began this resurrection !


      Actually, "she" is in this state:
      - Chassis with frame rails, brakes, fuel tank, rear and front axle assembled
      - engine with many extra details ( according to the reference photos of Paul Koo's DVD and other found on the net, particularly on gallery section of Tthis website), mounted on the chassis with B002 Engine mount of MCM (Thanks Marvin )
      - Steering box installed with personal and extra detailing.
      - Engine mounted on the frame.
      - Extra detailed firewall achieved and mounted
      - Radiator with some improvements mounted too

      I've added or am going to doit, numerous parts or advanced features as:
      - Speedometer cable
      - Tachometer cable
      - Functional linkage of accelerator Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
      working on carburetors and supercharger
      And many others...


      As much as possible, I used bolts instead of screws, and, where not, I painted the screws in black, to hide them.
      The chassis was painted with automotive black primer Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. , which gave it a softly grained aspect.
      For all the engine parts, I used Alclad Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. metal paints with my airbrush Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. , and here and there, tamiya Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. paints with a soft or a dry brush.
      Many details are scratched with aluminium sheet (0.3 mm thickness), Styrène sheet and rods, brass or copper or alu tubes and rods (from 0.3 mm to 2 mm) , micro bolts and threaded rod, micro washers, destroyed watch parts or photo-etched parts(engine cam covers, photo-etched grill for the radiator), thanks to Ebay
      Several parts have been modified when necessary, especially to make them closer to the real ones.


      And now, some overviews of the model, in its actual state....more detailed photos of the step by step building to go later if anybody is interested


















      Ps: I didn't found the way to put an explicit picture of my building before the title of the thread.. So, if anyone could help me...


      Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.

      Build Photos

      Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.-chargement-jpg  Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.-k84-jpg 


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  1. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The engine has been mounted on the frame, using MMC cast bronze engine mounts.
    I had to adjust them because they did'nt perfectly fit on the frame:
    There's a particular issue with the inferior arm of the posterior mount - too long, and I had to amputate it a little, otherwise it would have been impossible to force the engine into the frame.






    Furthermore, I havn't followed the kit instructions to fix the mounting supports on the frame, and I've placed the four screws on the inner side of it, and the bolts on the outer side. It was a painful job but it was worth the efforts because, so, we cannot see screws that do not exist in reality.






    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-15-16 at 09:13 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #17

  2. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    [U][B]An now, building of the firewall, engine side

    [/B][/U]

    The engine side firewall has been given a facelift !
    "[I]Pourquoi faire simple quand on peut faire compliqué ?[/I]" (which means, for those who do not speak french: [I]why make it simple when we can make it complicated ?)[/I]
    Answer[I]: beauty and realism of course

    [/I]

    [U]Example of a classical construction:

    [/U]




    [B][U]And what I wanted to get and obtained:

    [/U][/B]






    [B][U]1/ Engine-turning plating

    [/U][/B]

    - A plate of Alu 0.3 mm thickness has received engine-turning pattern on all its surface.
    - A paper template of the shape to cover on the firewall has been made.
    - this template permit to cut the alu plate at the approximative form .
    - This form has been presented on the firewall, and, triming and sanding it progressively, I obtained the exact shape I needed
    - several cuts were made on it, and the needed holes were drilled.
    - Finally, the alu plate was glued in place with CA gel.
    - And the ensemble received a semi-classique clear coat


    [U][B]2/ Central plate

    [/B][/U]

    The central part of firewall from where come the lubrication line, has been plated with alu sheet ([I]"what looks more like to metal than metal" [/I])


    [B][U]3/ On the oil bottle at right upper corner:

    [/U][/B]

    - An exterior level has been added : scratchbuilt with alu tube, brass rods and silver paint.
    - A purge valve has been added at its bottom from which will run later a lubrication copper line.
    - The cap has been cutted and replaced by a better notched one, which is none other than a watchwinder !





    [B]4/ [U]Bare metal foil chrome[/U][/B] has been put on the firewall, on the oval bezel that surround the steering shaft ‘s hole


    [B][U]5/ A linkage has been added[/U][/B], in accordance to the reference photos, that joins the kit accelerator linkage, and the right upper corner of the firewall.
    This linkage is articulated with the kit linkage, and functional with the accelerator pedal….


    Scratchbuilt with brass rod, alu tube, brass M1 bolts and nuts
    [B][U]
    6/ Similarly, a linkage
    [/U][/B] has been added, that joins the firewall and the adjusting lever of advance ignition point on the distributor.

    This one is not functional.
    On the picture, you can see only the firewall's attachment of the linkage


    Scratchbuiltwith M1 brass bolt and nut, alu tube, alu sheet.
    [B][U]
    7/ The firewall ignition coil
    [/U][/B] has been moved downwards. Electric red painted wires has been added at the bottom part, running to a hole in the firewall, according to the reference photos.





    [B][U]8/ A relay electrical box has been added[/U][/B] on the firewall, on the top, that will be located behind the distributor when firewall will be mounted on the frame.
    Here too, that was made in accordance with reference photos
    From this box run several electrical wires crossing through the firewall by the same hole that in 7/





    That was scratchbuilt with styrene sheet, hexagonal styrene rod, which I've sanded to semi-circular shape, square styrene rod, M1 brass bolt, electrical copper wire and some patience.


    [B][U]9/ A hole has been drilled on the firewall[/U][/B], at the left of the ignition coil, bezeled with an eyelet (painted red), through which crosses the cable coming of the radiator, and goes to the water temperature display on the dashboard.





    [B][U]10/ The two connectors[/U][/B] , black plastic in the kit, from which run lubrication copper lines to the engine, has been replaced by scratc-built brass ones (brass tubes, soldering, brass nuts, and sanding)





    [U][B]11/ All screws has been replaced by brass bolts

    [/B][/U]

    [B][U]12/ Decals have been placed[/U][/B], that upgrade strongly the realism of this masterpiece
    I’ve found them on a Dutch web site: http://www.decal-sheets.nl/decals-18-pocher-schaal
    They supply impossible to find elsewhere decals for the Pocher kits.
    So, I’ve bought the Bugatti decals, and I’m very satisfied with them.
    The best represent the manufacturer’s plate and the patents plate..
    On the decal sheet, you’ll can find too several “Scintilla’s logos” to put on electrical apparatus, such as distributor, ignition coil, fuse box, dynamo etc.





    That's all as for now...stay tuned
    If anyone is interested by explanations, only need to ask


    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    QUOTE QUOTE #18

  3. Jo NZ's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    I've been thinking of ways to make grommets for cable holes - You have the answer - eyelets! Of course! I also picked up the tip on engine turning, to wrap wire around the brush to stop it from spreading out.

    It's looking very nice - such an improvement from the standard kit.
    QUOTE QUOTE #19

  4. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jo NZ View Post
    I've been thinking of ways to make grommets for cable holes - You have the answer - eyelets! Of course! I also picked up the tip on engine turning, to wrap wire around the brush to stop it from spreading out.

    It's looking very nice - such an improvement from the standard kit.
    I'm happy if can help somebody.
    I'm watching your amazing work on the Alfa Monza, and I'll also pick up many tips and tricks to build mine :-)

    Thank you for your kind comments.... I'm flattered !


    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    QUOTE QUOTE #20

  5. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    The firewall carrier side has been given too a facelift ! "[I]Pourquoi faire simple[/I] ...."

    According to my reference photos of the prototypes, I’ve added some parts:

    [B]1/ [U]This one, of which I don’t know name nor function[/U][/B], located on the left of steering shaft, that seems to be an electrical device

    It’s been scratch-built from styrene Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. rod, alu sheet, two brass tubes and electrical wire, under magnifying glasses.


    It is connected , on the ref. photos, to a fuse box ([I]in my opinion[/I]), on the bottom left of the firewall.


    [B]
    [/B]
    [B]
    [/B]
    [B]
    [/B]
    [B]
    [/B]
    [B]

    [/B]
    [B][B][U]2/ The fuse box [/U][/B][/B][I][U][/U](or any other electrical apparatus..but I think it’s a fuse box)
    [/I]

    It has been scratch-built from styrene sheet, copper wire (0.4 mm diameter), M1 brass bolt, yellow paint then clear red paint from Tamiya, decals (Trade mark "Scintilla") and a lot of patience…

    From this fuse-box run several electrical cables, which are depicted, but not connected, because, of course, nobody ([I]with the exception of Bugatti's real car specialists[/I]) can affirm what are their pathway and function !


    [B]


    [/B]
    [B]
    [/B]
    [B]

    [/B]
    [B]Later, the fuse box has been moved upward, because its previous location was wrong : it would have been too often hit by the front passenger's shoes !!

    [/B]
    [B]

    [/B]

    [B]3/ [U]All the visible part of the firewall, on this carrier side, has been plated Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. [/U][/B] with an appropriate shaped aluminium sheet, as you can see on the last above picture.



    [B]4/ [B][U]The screws that hold the plastic part surrounding the steering shaft hole[/U][/B], [/B]will be replaced later by brass bolts.[B]

    [/B]
    [B]5/[B][U] I'll explain later what are these two cables[/U][/B] that cross the firewall, on the right of the fuse box.

    [/B]



    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    QUOTE QUOTE #21

  6. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Four weeks ago, I've made an addition to my model:

    I've installed some electrical cables, according to the reference photos you can find on Paul Koo's DVD and Scalemotocars.com ("http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/563").

    I needed to call on my overflowing imagination to understand what I can do with them...

    And finally I decided, rightly or wrongly that the two red/orange power cables that you can see coming out the electric starter are:
    - first: the one which comes from the ignition switch on the dashboard
    - second: the one which comes from the battery ([I]I'll install a battery replica later, under the passenger front sea[/I]t)





    And, concerning the black power cable you can see coming out the dynamo:
    - It goes to the battery ([I]via a regulator, not represented yet on my pictures[/I]) to charge it.

    At last, there's another black cable which join the future battery with all electrical accessories and magneto in front of the car (firewall sector).

    All cables are made of fine electrical cord of 1.4 mm diameter, which is an acceptable size for 1/8 scale, considering these are not really cables, but outer rubber sheath for the electrical cords.

    All these cables are fastened on the chassis or joined together with thin ribbons (1 mm) of over-aged electrical black rubber tape...several should be replaced because they don't glue..
    I think it's possible or even sure that exist errors in this electrical diagram, because I'm an ignorant in electric functionning of a car....If somebody can and want correct my delirium, I'll be happy to modify my work.









    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-18-16 at 08:04 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #22

  7. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Next addition to this kit: a new floor mat to replace the kit rubber mat.

    Why? Two reasons:

    - 1st: the rubber mat crossed through by the 3 pedals is, in my kit, very ugly and distorted





    - 2nd: on the prototype car, this floor mat isn't a rubber carpet, but an aluminium non-slip plate, as you can see on these pictures (found in the gallery section of Scalemotorcars website)






    This metallic mat It is bolted on the firewall, and lengthwise and crosswide corrugated, in order to make it non-slip mat...

    So, I planed to replace it...and I'm always, 3 weeks later, on a phase of trials with a new one, that I have scratcbuilt

    I searched on Internet ([I]Rougié & Plé, french creative hobbies website, dedicated particularly to architecture students[/I]) a material, which, at 1/8 scale, could closely seem to that real mat...and I found this one.





    This material imitates perfectly, in my opinion, the pattern of an non-slip surface....

    I prepared a styrene-sheet-made template, that I adjusted to the exact shape to form.




    Then, I prepared a plate of standard alu sheet, covering bottom side of this "master".











    Next, I prepared a plate of the corrugated alu sheet, longer and larger enough to permit covering both sides of the master.

    I shaped it onto the master, both sides, drillled and shaped the holes for the 3 pedals, and then glued the 3 parts of the mat: the flat alu master and the corrugated covering, sandwhiching the styrene master...
    So, I got a relatively malleable but solid mat that only needed some sanding to fit right on the floor.










    Finally, I made a little addition on this "floor matt":
    I put on the periphery of the 3 pedal's passage holes, a "bezel", an aluminium cover profile, which gave a pleasant decorative finish.









    And now, I must wait and think before gluing Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. the mat on the firewall floor and to bolt it (4 bolts....sittings prepared).

    In effect, when i'll install the carpetted floor of the carrier, theoretically, if I follow the kit instructions, the front of the carpetted floor must be put below the floor mat of the firewall.
    That would be easy if i used the rubber mat, which is very malleable and can be bended...but with this semi-rigid alu floor mat, after having conducted tries, it seems to be more difficult...
    We must notice too, that on the real car, the carpetted floor of the carrier goes over the floor mat, and not below!

    A solution is to glue the new alu floor mat on the firewall AFTER having bolted the carrier floor on the chassis, eventually adding a styrene Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. sheet between firewall and floor mat, to compense the difference of thickness.
    I dont know if I'm clear...if not, I'll make a diagram.
    Other solution: fold the alu floor mat lengthwise, to get an angle permitting, simultaneously to glue the anterior part of the floor on the firewall, and to slide the carrier floor under the floor mat


    I'll solve this problem later...must sleep on it ! But yet have an idea


    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-18-16 at 08:09 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #23

  8. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Finaly, one day after scratchbuilding the new alu floor mat, I made my first try with it.

    - I bolted firewall and carrier carpetted floor on the chassis
    - Then, I presented the alu floor mat on the firewall floor..there was an issue with the pedals, so...I modified their inclination angle and adjusted the 3 holes for the pedals and the bezels on the corrugated alu.
    - Then I presented once more the alu floor mat on the firewall floor....and all seemed OK.

    I'll only have to add a 1 mm styrene Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. sheet between the firewall floor and the alu floor mat, to compense the level difference, in order the alu floor stands firmly and enable glueing it, without having to curve it crosswise.
    Once glued, the alu floor will be in close contact with the carpetted floor...what you cannot see on the next photo, of course.


    o




    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-18-16 at 08:24 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #24

  9. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    I've worked too on the steering system

    [U][B]First, refering to the prototypes photos, I added a "lever" on the steering gearbox

    [/B][/U]




    I don't know what it is usefullness. It seems to be, rather than a lever, a mobile clip which prevents the gearbox cap to get away ???
    I've scratch-built it with thin brass tube, M1 brass bolt and alu sheet, then painted it Alu


    [U][B]Then[/B][/U], always according to the reference photow, [U][B]I decided to modify the steering control arm[/B][/U], that is not very rewarding for this superb model car :

    [B]The kit one :[/B]


    [B]to get this[/B]:





    [U]Needed:[/U] A big brass washer, alu sheet, 6 M1 brass bolts, Tamiya Putty or Milliput, as you want, sanding files, Alclad Chrome paint, a soldering iron and soldering wire pic
    [U]First[/U]: I soldered the large brass washer over the "cubic" head of the steering arm, which is hinged on the steering shaft...The washer was soldered on the outer face of the "cubic head", and not yet hiding the hole of the shaft.
    [U]Second[/U]: I sanded the brass washer to obtain a diameter that was approximatively the diagonal of the squared face of the cubic head
    [U]Third:[/U] I glued a small piece of alu sheet on the washer, and sanded it at the same dimensions. The hole for the steering shaft was masked !
    [U]Fourth:[/U] I glued 6 heads of sacrified M1 brass bolts on this ensemble
    [U]Fifth[/U]: I filled the space between the brass washer and the "cubic head' of steering arm, at its back, on the left and the right, with several successives layers of Tamiya Putty, for rounding the rigth angles between the washer and the cubic head...
    [U]Sixth[/U]: after a long dry and carefull sanding, I painted the whole system with Alclad Chrome.

    It's not totally achieved ! the illusion is Ok from front view, but rather bad from side or upper view.





    Initially, i wanted to get a cylinder which includes the "cubic head"
    I could have done better, certainly should I...too late now, unless my perfection devil catch me up !

    [B][U]On the articulation between the steering control arm, and the steering control rod,[/U][/B] i've replaced the M2 Screw and nut, by brass M1.6 bolt and nut.



    Finally, a few hours later, after having mounted temporarilly the steering system on the chassis and trying to move wheels, turning the steering wheel, I've encountered an issue:
    The steering wheel had no effect on the steering shaft, while turning it !
    However, when turning the steering shaft manualy, the mecanism worked perfectly and the wheels turned.
    I supposed the "nipples" on the brass steering shaft , which prevent steering wheel to turn on empty, were eroded and didn't grip the plastic of the steering wheel...and I was right !
    I must fix that...so, I'd an idea...


    I took my soldering iron, soldering silver wire, and did this on the shaft:





    Then took files and did that (two nipples) on the drops of solder:





    Then, with a needle file, I made two notches in the steering wheel hole








    A moment later:





    And now, when I turn the steering wheel, wheels turn

    Later, the steering wheel will be enhanced...

    Stay tuned



    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    QUOTE QUOTE #25

  10. Egon's Avatar Moderator
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    Link to the store: http://schulcz.de/index.html
    QUOTE QUOTE #26

  11. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Thanks Egon

    And here the link for the exact material I've ordered for my floor mat :http://www.rougier-ple.fr/tole-ondul...if-1-mm.r.html


    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    QUOTE QUOTE #27

  12. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    Here is the continuation of this building.
    At the end of August, I installed the firewall, that is now fitted on the frame :


























    The electric cords that come from the battery and the starter has been temporarily installed



    More about in the next issue... Stay tuned

    Thanks for looking and constructive criticism.


    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-19-16 at 08:17 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #28

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    [B]The copper lubrication lines that run from the firewall to the engine[/B] have been installed too [I](not an easy job, because see nothing, and no room to work[/I])

    The ugly and oversized black plastic connectors provided with the kit have been replaced with no regret by scratchbuilt ones, made of brass tubes, nuts and bolts with micro-soldering and CA gel,[B] as this one[/B]:





    [B]Or this one[/B]:















    [B]The linkage that join the firewall (up right) to the distributor [/B]has been placed, not functionnal, but the mechanism is simulated


    [B]
    The copper lubrication line that run from the bottle up and right of the firewall, and goes behind the supercharger [/B]is installed too.

    It's made from brass tubes, copper rod, M1 brass nuts and CA gel.

    First I've had to make a template with thin copper rod, and then I've shaped the final piece with thicker copper rod.
    The line is made of two sections connected, that join behind the steering box.











    [B]On the last picture, you can also glimpse the added fuel copper line[/B], coming from the frame right rail, connected on the fuel dispatcher of the carburetors
    Better view on next pictures






    [B]Next addition the missing linkage of the accelerator Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. pedal with supercharger and carburetors, entirely functionnal....building step by step, photos and a short video
    [/B]

    [B]To see it, stay tuned !
    [/B]

    Thanks for looking and constructive criticism


    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-19-16 at 07:31 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #29

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    [B]New enhancement: the building of the accelerator Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. added linkage.

    [/B]

    It was entirely scratch-built from brass rod, brass tubes, M1 brass bolts, washers and nuts.

    All the micro-parts has been slowly adjusted, try after try, in order to get for each one: the right size, the right fit, the right orientation, so that the additionnal linkage would be functional.


    The brass parts have not been soldered, but glued with CA gel ([I]soldering would have been executed, parts at their place on the engine, and of course, it was impossible without risking to burn all. Moreover, it would have been very difficult to sand Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. the soldered parts, once definitely mounted[/I]).


    The added linkage doen't existe in the kit. Paul Koo's DVD don' t refer to this system ( if I'm not mistaken) , wich of course exist on the prototype car.
    I must thank some modellers who post on several other websites the results of their work [I][B](special thank to Harry Pristovnik, on Model cars mag website)[/B][/I] : they offer to me an inspiration.


    So, I've studied the reference photos, searched on the Internet, in order to be the closest as possible of the reality in my "production".


    [U][B]Let's go:
    [/B][/U]

    [B]To make a connector,[/B] you can use a brass tube 1.5 mm outer and 0.8 inner diameter.
    Press the free end with pliers over a lenght of about 2.5-3 mm, to flatten it.
    Drill this flattened end exactly on its center with a 1 mm drill, and then cut the tube to approximatively 5 mm long.
    Trim and sand Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. to get an oval shape...


    I made 4 connectors, what I needed for the two linkages.








    [U][B]Installing connector on the levers:
    [/B][/U]

    On the control levers of supercharger and carburetors, i'd put a pin, made of 1 mm brass rod.
    You must thread the hole of the connector on this pin, then place on the set a small brass washer, and then lock the assembly with a M1 brass nut.
    Finally, secure the mounting with a micro-drop of CA gel and let dry. Normally, the connector can move on its shaft [I](the brass pin[/I]).
    When all's OK, you can cut the excess length of the pin.





    Next, the most difficult step of this building hab been to mesure and cut correctly the appropriate length of brass rod needed to form each linkage...try and try, and try again...once done, glue a connector on one of the brass linkages





    Install this connector on the kit plated linkage, and glue the other end on the previous connector ([I]the one installed on lever of supercharger/carburetor[/I])








    Once installed the two linkages, all that remains to do is attaching the two connectors on the kit linkage, using M1 brass bolt, brass washers, and brass M1 nut, tighting the nut enough, but not too much, as the system can move freely when pressing the accelerator pedal.
    Secure the nuts using threadlock.







    [B]
    In the next post, I'll put a video of this functional linkage.... Stay tuned[/B]



    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-20-16 at 09:41 AM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #30

  15. ThierryD86's Avatar Yearly Subscriber
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    [B]As promised : A short video of the additional accelerator Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection. linkage[/B]





    As you'll can see, the assembly is working, well for the supercharger, not quite as well as expected for the carburetors.
    I' ll do not try to fix that, can live with !


    Pocher Bugatti type 50 Coupé de Ville: à résurrection.
    Last edited by ThierryD86; 09-20-16 at 03:40 PM.
    QUOTE QUOTE #31

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