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frame geometry
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Thread: frame geometry

    1. Kit: , by (VIP/Sponsor) Mike1981 is offline
      Builder Last Online: Sep 2008 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 10-20-05 Build Revisions: Never  
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      Hi everyone, i was wondering how i can assure the right frame alignment,
      how can i make sure the frame is true? :confused:
      what glue should i use, superglue or 5 minute epoxy frame geometry ? :confused:
      Thanks in advance for your help guys.
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  1. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar Administrator
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    Daniel
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    Well that depends on just how far you want to go with it. If you want a dead on straight frame then you could build a jig. Heres a real one. Note the smaller jig on the motor stand to the left for actually building the frame and boxing it.


    Or alot easier is this simple example of a self squaring jig used with a picture frame but its still the same basic settup. When building up your frame measure the distance from the front left to the right rear and then match that to the measurement from the front right to the left rear. If the numbers match its square.


    As for glue I use Zap-A-Gap CA+ for most stuff. Depends on what your doing. Boddini is perfect for interiors and everyone has something different that they like. If you want realism bolt everything together. I can set you up with the bolts and nuts.

    Hey guys what do you use?
    QUOTE QUOTE #2

  2. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    I read somewhere that someone used the kit interior floor part as a jig. He either taped the floor on and then glued or used rubber bands tro hold it in place. The nest thing was to lay the taped assembly on a flat, level surface to see if the frame lay perfectly flat, i.e. the front and back spots touched evenly like four wheels touching evenly. I don't know what glue the guy used but I tend to like liquid styrene frame geometry cement since it basically forms a weld. If I'm not sure if it will hold like that well enough and I'm boxing the frame, I'll add styrene frame geometry strips to the joints with liquid cement like using a welding rod. I let the frame set for 24 hours like that and check to see that it looks right. If any of the plastic "welds" will show, I'll do some filing and sanding frame geometry like on the real thing. I've found out that if you know your materials and how they act and you treat the model like you're building the real thing ( I subscribe to Street Rodder, Hot frame geometry Rod and Rod and custom), you'll come out o.k. If you're not sure, ask someone here. If we can't find the answer, we'll make something up. :eek:
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #3

  3. ScaleMotorcars's Avatar Administrator
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    Daniel
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    Thanks HFC. I forgot to add the flat surface part. Your right on track with treating it like building the real thing. Thats the best way to go... Thanks.. Daniel
    QUOTE QUOTE #4

  4. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    The best research I've found for models especially the large scale stuff are the Motorbooks series, books like How To Build Hot frame geometry Rod Chassis, How To Build A Hot frame geometry Rod by Boyd C. and many of the magazines devoted to the 1:1 frame geometry cars. There just aren't enough of the good model car books and just too much detail toi write about. Next ime you're near a Barnes and Noble, Books a Million or Borders, check out the transportation sections. You'll be really surprised what's out there. I hope this helps.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #5

  5. EstebanLoco's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Steve
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1981
    Hi everyone, i was wondering how i can assure the right frame alignment,
    how can i make sure the frame is true? :confused:
    what glue should i use, superglue or 5 minute epoxy frame geometry ? :confused:
    Thanks in advance for your help guys.
    Hey Mike,

    You can get a pretty square frame by assembling the frame first with rubber bands - one stretched tightly over each frame rail. Yhe frame will stay together and you'll then have the ability to take your cross measurements and massage the frame rails as needed. Once you have it how you want it, apply liquid cement to the joints like hot frame geometry ford coupe said. While the cement is doing it's thing, you should turn the frame over and place a heavy book on it until the cement has totally worked (at least 2-3 hours). This should prevent any warping. At some point, the frame should be test-fit on the floorboard. If this is not done and any problems addressed, you will have problems mounting the body later. Once the frame is square and test fit to the floorboard you can reinforce the joints with 5-min epoxy frame geometry of you want. I would also recommend boxing the frame rails.

    I hope this helps,
    Steve
    I'm just a soul whose intentions are good . . .

    "A picture is worth a thousand words, but a model is worth a thousand pictures." Harley Earl
    QUOTE QUOTE #6

  6. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Listen to the man. He knows from what he is talking. Hey Stevie ! What's happening. I was wondering when you'd pop by. Good to see you here.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #7

  7. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    I just gotta put my 2 cents in. Making a jig isn't that far fetched...especially if you need to make more than one part...But then you have to make a jig that's square and true. Do you make a jig to make a jig to make a jig to make a.........Esteban gets the gold star this time. HFC....here's another one for your growing list of things I gotta try...I agree with Daniel and use CA+ for most of my assembly....it sets up fast but you don't get much time for repositioning, although there are slower setting formulas. I like the plus because it has a filler in it. You mentioned building the model like it was a 1:1 frame geometry car. A welded seam on 1:1 frame geometry cars is common...I've been experimenting with welding plastic. I bought a wood burning tool (Variable temperature) pencil type with screw on tip capability. I got a bunch of tips including one that accepts #11 Exacto Blades (cuts through plastic like butter). Here's the good stuff...I used CA+ to assemble a frame. I took the smallest plastic rod I could find and I tried to run a weld using the plastic rod and tip on the wood burning tool with an itty bitty little ball on the end. I'm getting to the point where you can begin to see the puddles in the weld. Maybe it's all that agent orange.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
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    QUOTE QUOTE #8

  8. Mike1981's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Cheers for all the tips guys, before i write this reply i must inform you "I've brought another one, they cant expect you to settle on one idea" i tried the rubber band method and it seems to work very well, i think ill get this frame done that way and than build a jig around it, with a separate front, middle and rear section i can cut the frame on the next one and move the front and rear sections up to produce a aligned z'ed frame :) do i qualify for meds now :D


    frame geometry
    QUOTE QUOTE #9

  9. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
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    Jeffrey
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    Give that man a bed, 200mg of the good stuff and a foam rubber knife. Tonight's menu in the bin will be chicken soup and mystery meat. Sounds like a good method.
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #10

  10. Don Garrett's Avatar Asst. Administrator
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    I've noticed that there haven't been any pigeons or cats around the home lately.
    Grandpa McGurk.....Steppin' Large and Livin' easy.
    TDRinnovations.com
    QUOTE QUOTE #11

  11. docwatson1938's Avatar Update Profile Please
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    Doc.
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    Can I just say one thing about CA glue frame geometry ??
    It was originally made as a skin closure medium for minor cuts, avoiding needles and sewing. As a result it was made to brake down, this is a failing that has never been remedied. Just be careful as some CA glues will stop holding on after a while, may take 10 years but it will do it.
    As for building chassis, I build model chassis the same way I build them for my 1:1 frame geometry hotrods.
    Draw up some good scale plans (Especially if modifying or scratch building.
    Work on a dead level working surface, your wooden/laminex etc bench top wont cut it. I use a glass sheet, reasonably thick (Mines about 10mm thick) Lay out all the parts as if it were built on top of the plan (All this should be on the glass).
    Measure, measure and measure again.
    Your plans should have a good and accurate centreline on it, this helps big time to ensure that both sides of the chassis are the exact same distance from the centre line of thrust.
    Once the chassis rails are the right distance from the centreline then make sure the rails are in the same cross plane. Measure from one side to the other across the long axis of the chassis, i.e. from the rear left to the front right.
    It is better to use a reference point rather than the very end of the rails as they can differ slightly. I normally use the inside edge of the cross members as these must be in the same place on both sides.
    Only when the measurements on both sides are the same is the chassis correctly aligned.
    Now make a jig, doesn’t have to be substantial, 4 pieces of block steel works well to hold everything in place.
    Now I run liquid glue along everything and let it dry overnight, I like HFC idea of running strip styrene frame geometry into the seam to form a weald. Hell damn good idea I wish I had thought of that!
    Cheers,
    Doc.
    QUOTE QUOTE #12

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