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Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines
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    1. Kit: , by (Established Member) The creative explorer is offline
      Builder Last Online: Nov 2017 Show Printable Version Email this Page
      Model Scale: 1/8 Rating:  Thanks: 0
      Started: 02-02-10 Build Revisions: Never  
      Not Supported

      Upon request I am making a tutorial for the Revell Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines /Monogram 1/8th kit of a Jaguar XKE or E-type.

      Step 1: Preparing.

      What I did to prepare the body wasn't difficult. I primed the body halves with 2 coats and roughly sanded it.
      I primed the interior tub with only a light coat of plastic adhesive primer Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines . Didn't sand Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines it and painted the interior tub in the desired colour. When you're done with filling up the seems, you cannot spraypaint the interior anymore. So it has to be done prior to.

      Make a lot of dry-fits, this kit is notorious for it's fitting. there needs to be made some cuts in the firewall, otherwise the firewall and the upper body halve do not flushfit very well.

      Step 2: Glueing.

      The most important key is getting the right glue! Normal modelling glue will not do.
      I found 2 component industrial strength glue. Get the best glue you can find. It is very important, because you don't want to crack the paintjob on the seamlines. This will stay a fragile point at alltime.

      So sand Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines down all the places where glue needs to be placed. Also very important for strength.

      Glue the firewall to the interior tub and let it stay overnight, maybe 2 nights. Be aware that every joint needs to be glued, wherever the firewall meets the tub, glue it. Find all the points where you can gain strength.

      When the glue has set on the tub, glue the tub and the firewall to the lower bodyhalve of the Jaguar. And let it set for a long time again.

      If you want to use the doormechanism and hinges, this is the time to place them onto the upper body halve. Later on it is impossible.

      Now the hardest part. Use as much glue as you can ( not blobbing, but use it over as much square millimeters as you can and also on the insides of the body's where it will be unnoticable.
      And glue the both body halves together. Use tape to hold the body halves together.


      Because of the strength needed, I also place the rear-floorpan in the car. I did NOT glued it, it snaps in and you need to remove it for painting.

      Step 4: Sanding Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines and filling

      Relax, the hardest part has been done. First you have to sand Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines down the differences in the bodypanels, not really hard. after that, just filling and sanding Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines and filling and sanding Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines and filling and sanding Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines and you get my drift there.
      Until you get a nice smooth finish.

      Step 5: painting

      Preparing is simpel, you already have the body primed, so what you need to do first is cover up the interior tub. so no paint is coming on you nice-painted interior. Also remover the rear-floorpan in this step.




      When you're done prepping Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines the body, just paint the car.

      Step 6: finalizing.

      Because many steps has been changed because of this, it could sometimes be a challenge to fit the parts in the car.
      some tips:

      -Prepare the whole engine completely and fit the engine with its subframe after you painted the car
      -Install the dashboard in the car part by part. But do not install the top-cover, that goes on when the windscreen is in place.
      -Install the rear-floorpan only when you finalized the interior completely AND having the windows in place. This way gives you a bit more workspace for your hands.
      -The rest should be do-able.



      Forgive me about the pictures, but I didn't make a lot of the first process

      Pictures of the finished car:[U]
      http://www.firerods.com/finishedmode...XKE/index.html
      [/U]
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  1. Rick's Avatar Member
    Name
    Rick
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,699
    What an excellent tutorial, thats exactly what we like to see around here.

    Thanks!!
    QUOTE QUOTE #2

  2. hot ford coupe's Avatar VIP/Sponsor
    Name
    Jeffrey
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    7,826
    A great tutorial and a great solution to an old problem!!!
    Sometimes a handful of patience is worth more than a truck load of brains. Have the courage to trust your own beliefs. Don't be swayed by those with louder voices. W.S. Maugham :)
    QUOTE QUOTE #3

  3. The creative explorer's Avatar Established Member
    Name
    Erik
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    141
    Thanks guys!

    I hope this might help the people who wants to build the E-type clean. It is quite a eye-sore to see those lines on a almost perfect model.


    Cracking the code: getting rid of the XKE panellines
    QUOTE QUOTE #4

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